bonbon

Yes it's on there right. And make sure that you have the threads in the flywheel buried until it is tight with a wrench, or you might strip it all out and still have the flywheel on.

I started going into withdrawal. For a second I didn't think there was enough beer to last me the weekend. My shee is blown up right now and I need something to read while I save some cash for upgrades. BHQ is my homepage so everytime I went on the internet I was bummed lol. Glad to see it back up and running and hopefully it will move a little quicker.

The friggin center of gravity on rapturds is stupid amounts of high. You go to turn and have any sort of traction they try to tip over. Pisses me off. Plus, I'm a kind of a big guy (6-3 220) and the damn thing is cramped as hell when I jump on one. My fucking shee feels bigger than those. They ride like a cadillac compared to shees but they feel hard to throw around. I can buck my banshee around like is a fucking dirtbike and love it. And yes I know how to ride a four stroke (my banshee is the second 2-stroke I've owned besides my snowmobile), I've had a few three wheelers, a warrior, and a raptor 660 for about a week before I sold the fucker because it was to cramped for me. At least I made a good turnaround on it to some poor bastard for about 800 bux........

That would be post #15 of this thread..... http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=81243

Carb cleaner is some brutal shit, works great. And if its not coming off right away, let the carb cleaner soak in for a bit then scrub on it.

Food, water, lighters, more lighters, I just kept the stock toolkit under the seat and that works pretty good in most situations, plugs, camera, leatherman, towstrap. The reason I say so many lighters is I snowmobile alone quite a bit and when you get stranded and its fucking cold out a lighter comes in handy, but 5 of them are even more handy. And also a very big knife, it comes in handy. I usually got a 7inch ka-bar with me in the winter anyway.

http://www.davemooreracing.com

Please god tell me you mean transmissions and not chicks with dicks lol. You sick sunuvabitch!!!!lol

You have the rich/lean per elevation mixed up there......the higher you go the air gets thinner. That means that you run less fuel to get the appropriate air/fuel ratio. When you go down in elevation the air is thicker and you need more fuel to make the correct A/F ratio. So say somebody at sea level runs a 330 main, at 7000 feet they may run around a 280 main to lean it out due to the thinner air. Hope that made some sense

I change about every other ride, usually around 10-15 hours of run time.

www.jetsrus.com or go to your dealer, they should have a bunch on hand for under 3 bux a piece.

Turn on: your mom Turn off: your mom

Speaking of the "totally custom" trailer did you finish weldin her back up and getting those lights on or we still got some more work to do?

A cub uses the stock head and reeds or a comparable aftermarket part.

You mean some of this stuff???? Can't beat a good winter!

Bump! Ok you can't tell me no one is planning on making the trip anymore......do you really want to let me and Jared have some sweet empty dunes to ride?!?

Thats right, for 50:1 it is 6.25 gallons of gas to 16 oz of oil. Agreed, spend 3-4 bux at the dealership for a ratio-rite and there's no more guesswork.

Stick with your stock carbs until you start doing porting and other major mods like that. As far as domes go, it all depends on what you want your compression at and type of fuel you want to use. Up to ~165psi you can get away with premium pump gas usually but any higher and you need to start mixing in race gas or AV gas. Depending on your elevation, if your around sea level you may be able to get away with 20cc domes and run 93 or just go with 21's and be safe and still run 93 octane. Do a compression test to be for sure though.

Probably 2-3 sizes larger on the mains to start, then do a chop to make for sure.

So you can get them to air up, just not seat the bead? If that it, do the soapy water trick and while your airing them up tap around the bead on the tire with a hammer....I used to do that on lots of tires and if you just beat it it jars them enough to bead up.

You only need to bore if you cylinder wall is all scratched up and won't clean up with a hone. If you need to bore, only go as deep as is needed to remove imperfections in the sleeves. Don't waste all your potential bores to increase power, because it would be a minimal increase at best. Like wrecker03 said, your just going to have to replace cylinders or sleeves sooner if you bore them out to the maximum. The last topend I did on mine just required a hone and new pistons (got rid of the stockers) and its been running great with good compression ever since. I probably have 40+hours on it already and its not losing compression or power.

AMSoil Interceptor 40:1

Just a couple points I would like to elaborate on. He may not be a paying member but: 1. It is a public forum with no obligation to pay 2. He has contributed much useful information. i.e. his case splitting thread...thats got over 10,000 views so it must be worth something. If I was to find out that Jared was a fake I'd be hardpressed to believe thats gonna happen to me.....he has gone out of his way to help me out since I've moved to Rock Springs. I have had things sent to his address because I don't want them sent to my place (don't trust a guy I live with), he helped me out with a flat tire I got the other day, oh yeah he's hookin me up with a job, he'll take me out to dinner, have me over for barbecue, etc.etc. Sounds like a pretty nice guy to me.

Jared your pics are so much better than mine.....but I guess I'll put a few up anyway. This is what they've been looking like this summer so far! And notice the massive lack of people...........Some of those pics were taken last weekend with a full parking lot and I could still get away from all the people. Always virgin sand out there and no constant worrying that the next dune you top could be you last by plowin into some massive rail.

Shouldn't, the only place it can get into the cylinders is the 2 o-rings that go on the domes and then the spark plug holes but the plugs seal those.