sleeper06

Are u drag racing you would be surprised how little base pressure I run. IMO if you don't have a spring tension gauge your guessing . My advise is set it up heavy in weight till you have time to mess with it ,I have a ton of cut springs that I use to set up people's bikes but I have all the tensions marked on a bag so I know where I'm at . FYI I always keep pressure on the clutch pack consistent equal on all six springs

Oh yeh and sorry I haven't got back to you,both my kids play travel baseball,softball I've been at away tournaments and preoccupied with practices ,I coach both teams but feel free to hit me up I'll be home all week this week

Well u will get differences in opinion but anything 1/8,1/4 related I like to leave compression 170 ish . Rite now your running a shit ton of timing and compression that motor has to be fighting itself out the back and not overevving properly, as far as fuel goes if your plugs have signs of deto and loosen up not enough ,do you know your port durations and dome size because static compression isn't the end all on fuel type. I have ran q16 on a few bikes I learned the hard way one time I needed a power jet to get it tuned to the knats ass, unless you can really tune well stay away vp suggested a certain percent jet increase but it didn't work for me it sacrificed to much of the intermediate power needed for launch and 60 ft so I added power jet and all was well

Its only as reliable as the builders attention to detail, and the parts you put in, you stated you had a crank, is it used?

Like windy said and also check into electrical , ive had people lean there machines out chasing jetiing then when I got it it was electrical

There should def be a questinaire b4 you post for jetting ,

Thats a first for me wouldnt think it would shift 2nd like that but someone did that for a reason , I would lay it in cases and go thru gears with a little of rotation b4 you close her up

Porting has diffrent effects on jetting depending on pipe signal, whats your fuel, pipes,. Last dra6g ported bike I built on stock carbs ended up with a 420 main 30 pilot stock needles 4th clip

You could have shipped them to me down state in Long Island and had them back in 2 what worries me is the real cheap part , I do remove studs to bore but some don't just depends on boring bar set up

I do that with case porting , fast does it also , if its an older bottom end I put together the crank webs will have cuts in it like a sand paddle to throw the fuel,

I was gonna say ive cut out way more with no problems

Richen up that needle position

What r u looking to spend

Do have a sync tool or just a trained ear , did you pressure test? Why was the top end off anyway ?

If your motor is tight 240-260 with lid on needle 4th clip leave pilot for now

I have tuned and built a few motors arlen has ported he knows his shit but fast cylinders will haul ass tuned correctly

I do alot of jet ski /outboard porting . Before 4 strokes took over factory race engines had diffrent cases with added volume and these turned out to be the more desirable better running ski and stand up motors and more than one manufacturer had these options to certain people. Think about some of these ski motors putting out over 200 hp with a twin set up correctly. I have done extensive porting research read every book out there 10 times . In our shee motors I havnt found case volume to be one of the factors that yields big gains . I do believe in porting the tunnels but keeping velocity in mind. After over 100 sets I have a real good engine program for all types of riding .bringing the charge into the cylinder in an orderly fashion has shown me bigger gains than anything along with proper time area to exhaust the charge. Im no expert by far but through real world practice have found certain theories from my readings to work on diffrent platforms

Did u use a diamond hone, if not u might have messed up nik second I would start 52 pilot 175 main needle 4th clip

Me I specialize in sleeper , either 4mil or 7mil stock head, I wont use slingshots. Resleeving your cylinders are not cost effective at all with the price of virgins around here, the only issue I have is sticking big carbs on you need em to go fast but are noticable. Sleeper motors can be just as expensive as non .

Once u get it, they should last I have about 100 passes on mine now and clutch pack is only down .011 . I also do a few little thing to keep the fluid cooling the plates on slip . Nice job man wish I was near you

Put 300 mains 27.5 pilots needle 4th clip and check your ignition your not burning the fuel, coil or plug caps

Wheel shake gone with the balancing. I did some clutch tuning yesterday and this kid should be very happy its a rocketship. In the clutch tuning process I bent his wheelie bar lol it was very violent at my starting set up , im going to a track rental with it ill post back with some times

I have seen plenty fail also just not much on a shee

The oring should sit a lil past that if its bothering you put a small very thin dab of copperkote or threebond, ultrcopper, leakdown and youll be good I have seen alot worse than that

Yes depending on porting