sleeper06

There is a lot of carb mod needed not just pj,I would send it someone familiar with alky or buy another set used might be as cheap as buying power jets and bits needed to tune I spent 400 on jet drill bits

Nice job, didn't know you were outta country ,I have shipped stuff to Australia also with no prob

Yes and I also cut the plastics to slide the box back and ditch the. Overflow bottle

Jetting is way safe with no poet work ,but as stated above air leaks are the #1 motor killer on this and about 75% of jetting troubles even tho no one will take the time to listen! spraying carb cleaner won't do search leak down make a tester it will be your most important tool I know it's mine for sure

Don't waste your time talking a good 4-6 hrs of machining and welding and gambling if it's gonna hold not worp etc

Yes done it plenty moved air box back blue turbo hose to extend rubber boots make some brackets to bolt air box back in

No way didn't take it like like that great minds think alike,you know as well as I most of these projects fail due to lack of skill and the confidence of knowing it will go back together after cutting it all out and staring over. the most difficult part was the pipes I had to buy a new shoe for my bender just to fit the stainless pipe and it wrinkles so easy and Gary sent me just enough to play with,motor mounts and down tubes were less tasking mentally once I had a plan.

Actually wack never even mentioned to me that he talked to you on issues or ideas,he told me what he didn't like and didn't want and I went from there of course in Hine sight there is a few things I would do different. If you want clean,start over on the front end with everything.

I see some crazy shit one ported cylinder one not, .008 piston to cylinder clearance like its an sbc and your rite no one ever wants to believe what's going on that's why b4 I touch a carb or plug or anything I pressure test coolant system, engine and compression test I can count on my one how many bikes pass a leak down first shot and the best comment is but I sprayed carb clean and nothing was leaking . Yes it was and coupled with bad plug caps, shitty grounds and wiring,wrong cable free play,bad sync I wish people understood it's the little things that round it all up together

On another note 6 out of 10 engines I build came in to be tuned and sync carbs. Needless to say you can't tune in a new crank seal or head gasket ,my wife calls me the grim reaper when she hears me make the phone calls

You would be crazy not to save and send it hear many of banshee specific people who ship out of country,the problem you have now is you don't know which w ay is up. IMO you need to have your crank checked trued/welded since it's 7 years old,wiseco forged pistons are the way to go over oem cast junk when you plan on porting and raising compression they flat out hold up better.new seal knit .leak down and compression and squish test b4 starting anything .remember clean,clean,clean. You could eat off an engine after I put it together,use assembly lube and grease another biggie is washing cylinders down with hot soapy water after bore job you can erase a crosshatch almost emediatly and destroy a piston. You could have destroyed your crank with the last build need to check for sure and I mean not visually on a true stand check bearing run outs big end play and true

Did you see wacko2000 bike run in jersey vid in the yfz forum ? I have those cylinders n pistons I will adjust them however you like. .020 over bore still good

As stated by kn wiseco recommendation on clearance or any piston for that matter is given for normal use in the case of a banshee these things are always screaming high rpm I always set them up a lil loose

I have rebuilt at least 5 hjr motors all different style of porting as per info I was givin from owners everything on port jobs looked identical all transfer durations were the same all tunnel work the same all intake work same ex durations varied very little . There motors ran ok but not impressive

T-6 are terrible stay away,t-5 best all around pipe and respond well to porting and mods

I have built a few strong running 450s that get some banshee owners very pissed in drag races but like cam said I have seen so so so many sheets in bad tune ,bad electronics ,etc .every banshee owner thinks there shit is perfect 9 times outta 10 I can find at least 5 things wrong rite off the bat

B4 shees all my experience stems from street bikes,drag radial class cars to do any kind of 1/4 mile racing you need a few things to see improvement,with that big motor comes big dollar tranny that will hold up(6 speed),launch limiter for consistent launches/clutch tuning,rpm gauge and IMO egt would be nice to start out on new set-up .good fuel and patience .only work one area at a time do baseline jetting first.do 60 ft launches first till you get your clutch tuned to best time .then start to stretch it down the track,how you get off the line the first 60 will determine a lot down the track gearing,fuel,mph don't worry about cutting a light at first and like I said one adjustment at a time

Shearer uses John mans vile home insulation he also ships all his pipes packed in it brand new

Crank works is the best for rebuild IMO but it will run money might be better off buying used crank

Stock stroke long rod,795 series pistons, if you wanna keep your set up.

1/4 is one of the hardest things I have ever tried on a shee,it took me a full year to drop a second off my et and a ill longer to get the last couple tents off,plus by me the track is crowded lucky if you get 3 -4 passes in a bike eliminator ,not much time to adjust anything.by me they say stock chassis in the rules but IMO the tech guys wouldn't know the diffrence

I have welded tig and mig to frames never had issue ,not once

I did a lot of frame mods to wackos bike to get them like basically started over in the front,I wasn't rushed and time wasn't issue .people think it's 123 ,it wasn't an accident it came out that way lol

Start with two but u should really get a spring tension gauge so you can do a baseline and then you know where you have been.i never just take springs out because I want equal pressure on the clutch pack.i measure tension of all springs so I know total pressure then adjust a lil at a time

You need a sync tool contact fast racing