sleeper06

Wow I would never let anything leave like that nor would I do that. Good idea bad approach.what does the exhaust and transfers look like because as far as tooling goes the intake is the easiest to work with I wonder what size chain saw he used?

Head gasket ,leak down the motor

My guess is electrical system not burning the fuel

Only drag 39 pwk or drag dune 35 Pwk .race fuel 20 cc dome is nice

I run it in my crews asphalt bikes they don't like anti freeze at the track,I can't vouch for all day riding but it does the job at the track

Normally you should run 20:1 on premix but I don't see that being the issue if you just ran it once,did you purge the motor after running it?take clutch cover off and see if kick starter blinded up.good luck

My bikes will shit all over anything chuck can build he did work fracior me at one time had a few bad experiences we call him hackwagon

This is totally different than buying a car allot less to go wrong with brand new shit you can see in front of you this is exactly why i didn't post specs i was asked not to if someone was that interested they would have called me i left my number in the post this cub is set up the way i wanted it i could reality care less if it sells it is money long gone

Jeff ported this cub for me last year for my personal bike it was ported in a raw state then nikasiled ,I paid 350 for drag porting and have receipt if anyone is interested,buyer will get specs ,two base gaskets so I can adjust my squish for my needs anyone interested call me or Jeff (516) 852-4969 thanks

Where did you get it from or did you always have it,and damn your real close one town away

If you need help give a me a call,the shops around here forced me to start doing my own thing,I have built tons of banshee motors and love anything two stroke,I have local guys for all machining purposes,you should have leak down tested that motor before tearing into,just because you change parts doesn't mean yo will fix the problem I see it all the time.dumping money without knowing a cause can get expensive

Air strikers run a leaner pilot jet start off at 42 and see how she goes,160 main to start on fresh build I have had some good an bad results with cel needles really depends on state of motor d series needle always work better by me .leak down your motor and do plug and temp readings you won't regret it.

Check electrical that jetting is damn close could have other issues although every motor is different,depending on pipes you might need a bigger pilot

If it is leaking there someone either made the metal porous from welding for worm holes ,holes were done wrong or something not seated rite

320-340 main if there VMround slides 30 pilot might need to go dow

Marine treks is the shit. In the marine industry this shit hold up great and as of rite now there are a few bike I have built that needed repairs on cylinders .sittin in the intake exposed to the alky and holding up great after two years

Go 340 main 27.5 or 30 pilot needle 4th clip might need to drop main to a 320 depending on port timings I'm not sure what mild means my mild could be wild to others where are your jets at now that would help

I get some real good low end with a staggered clean up port and reshape ,12.5:1 compression ratio stock head rue chambered by mull engineering,stock carbs or 2-1 with 35 pwk,+4 timing

N68a needle will be the one your looking for those carbs the Cgl and dgh will not fit properly

There is a guy I'm hooked in with that does all my cylinder boring talking about a new coating instead of nikasel.this guy happens to be a friend and he is in the aero space industry and does primarily plane parts.a few guys with race boats by me have tried the coating with greater success than nikasil motors.rite now they are experimenting with piston ring material.these boat guys told me once they figure out the rite ring combo I can be priveed to to the info and my builds would never need new rings or top end unless other failures occur

Zachs motor is set up for pump gas

290 300 main 27.5 pilot

Not saying its your issue but I have seen cranks come out of phase from accidents on more than one occasion and cause similar symptoms

Normally a heavily ported 4mil with 20 cc domes comes in around 175 to 190 static depending on porting style and target for build I would do a squish test on motor and maybe pull domes and make sure they are cut for a 4mill I have seen numerous people purchase stock stroke domes for 4mil set ups not knowing any better

Why did it blow is the question,