volcrano

yes u are correct.the 10-40 or whatever should not be in the cylinders.thats what i said too.there must be a little confusion in wording here so lets agree to disagree.like benny said there is no "crank" oil besides the premix and u know that it was just stated wrong.i said i dont run resistor plugs because they seem to foul much quicker than non resistor plugs,and that i dont know what the reasoning is behind running resistors to non resistors and that hopefully someone with the tech info will chime in.ive read alot of posts where others also recommend non resistor plugs.i can only go by my experiences in not eunning resistor plugs.cam where u at.school us on resistor plugs lol..

Prob not.fmfs are really pretty quiet silencers,actually the whole fmf set up is pretty quiet.u need to get headpipes.the silencers arent really gonna give u a power difference.power is in the bend of the pipe.get u some fatty head pipes.

Im not getting shitty so dont get shitty with me please.the r means resistor like i stated.ive always had plugs foul quicker that were resistor plugs thats y i dont run them.im sure someone will chime in and tell u what the tech info is.im not gonna jack this guys thread either but i am 100% ask somebody else.if u pull the jugs there is gonna be oil/fuel mixture in there.its not gonna evaporate completely cuz therey oil.dry ur crank out completely and spin it and see if it gets oil.the crank and cyls. have to be completely sealed.the oil that lubes ur crank comes from the gastank,that goes thru the carb,thru the reeds into the crankcase.then it gets sucked up thru the ports into jugs to fire.look at how the banshee engine is built and tell me how im wrong.its obvious if u look at a breakdown and understand how two stroke engine works.dirtbikes are the same way..ask somebody else if u dont believe me and please,to not juck this thread p.m. me if ur have a question.thanks.

No bud.i am right.im not sure if u are aware that ur premix that u put in ur gas tank is what lubricates your crank.transmission oil does not.so yes,crank oil/fuel is what goes in ur cyls. too.but u are correct in saying that a bad crank seal will suck in transmission oil which wont fire too well.but cylinders and crank are completely sealed from transmission.tommy,run just regular b8es plugs and not resistor plugs.the r stands for resistor.u can do a leakdown test if u suspect trans oil being sucked in thru bad crank seal.

what do ur plugs look like????if u ride and pull the choke out in the mid is it better or worse.if better its too lean if worse its too rich.are u running airbox lid or no????

crank oil always gets pulled into the cylinder lol.i think u mean trans oil.do a compression test.definately repack them,they sound like ass.

put ur old stained plugs in and run it.they will change color according to being rich or lean.do 6th wide open,pull clutch and shut it off and coast to a stop.pull it out and look at it.when u get it to look like this after the wfo,u can move needles,pilots blah blah http://i279.photobucket.com/albums/kk147/kasha258/DSC_2429.jpg .whats ur elevation.i seriously doubt ull ever need a 330!!!im ported with a long rod 4 mill with cages and more blah blah and just tuned my shit yesterday.ended up at 340 main and my shit looks identical to this picture i posted.ended up with stock needle 2nd clip from top and 30 pilot 1.5 turns out.kept stuttering with 27.5s.throttle response is a lil more sluggy now but it pulls clean so ill take the trade.

u could remove it for a run up the street but dont leave it off long.uve got sticky oi/gas mixture in carb body and it will attract dust/dirt which leads to scratches in cylinder wall which leads to rebuild.

dude fuck the plug chop,i see ur getting frustrated.ride wfo in 6th and pull the plug and look at it.i sent u a link in the other post u have for pics of what the color of the plug should look like.once its has that chocolate tan/peanut butter look to it ur good.what is the bike doing to make u keep jetting?u should be about there with 290.whats ur plugs look like??????

what type of riding do u do?me personally i would set the timing to 0 and advance the dynatek to the 4 degrees advance.i would have to say those gnarlys are definately holding back power potential.they are a low mid pipe.ive heard good things about the trinity stage 4 pipes and i believe they were built to work well with the 421.i think a dude even has a set for sale in the for sale section.what is ur jetting.if ur bogging up top u need fuel.if ur sputtering ur too fat.so i would see what jets are in there and start going up.what do the plugs look like?get ur main jet richened first,in doing so it will also richen needle settings to an extent and u should start to feel a nice hit in the mid and pull up top.

s.o.s pad works excellent and doesnt scratch chrome either.thats all i use.ud be suprised what u can make em look like.

theres forums for that just like the hq.i got the lg revolution and it is also bad ass.

pro circuits.run excellent and look sweet too.some dude on here is selling a set for like 225 with forestry approved silencers.

lol."unused gears"...if u like to shift all the time and want to use them run like an 12/45 gearing.its ok if u dont use them,they wont go bad lol.just messin bro.like ddu said,if u like where the power starts and stops,keep em.but once u go to a pipe that builds power quicker,it will also sign off quicker so keep that in mind and make sure its what u want esp. when u port it,cuz its ported to ur pipes and the powerband u want.

i agree.u can do more than one.just dont ride all day.they say about 10 mins of riding will color a plug.i would think 5 mins and less would be ok to color the smoke ring but im no pro..should be a more defined ring.but,by the color,it looks like 300 would be good.

how is the one with the 300 leaner looking than the 280???it also looks like u used old plugs for the chop and u cant do that.u gotta get the motor to op. temps.pull those hot ass plugs and install new ones.do a WOT run and kill the motor and roll to a stop.then put reg plugs back in to get u back home or shut it off to where u can coast into ur driveway.chop those new plugs.u should have a 2mm brown ring at the bottom of porcelain.if ur over its too rich,under too lean.i do agree with loco tho,i dont ever do the plug chops,i just look at strap and porcelain and have never burned a motor in my life. http://www.dansmc.com/spark_plugs/spark_plugs_catalog.html these are supposedly "perfect" plug pictures.these came from rz/rd 350 forums. http://www.rzrd500.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=5048&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&sid=32ec94fb329f29be9ee9e71c7fdb2b62 very good info from this forum and pics of proper plug chop.

replied to pm

$300 to your door.

i would say ur too lean.grab a 152 and try that.

yes 3rd clip.esp. if u had it on 2nd and it ran ok,then u went to 1st and it was worse.then that tells u it wants fuel.

ask the guy u bought the set up from how he was jetted.

for sure.will make for a nice powerful woods bike and power where u need it.

pro circuits are nice for trails,they build power quick and still pull nice up top.if u want a pipe from toomey,t5 if u have plans of porting (which they still run nice on stockers),or t6 and like cam said have it ported to the t6 pipe.my buddy has his ported with t6s and it rips real nice.if ur going dune port id go t5s,but if ur riding 75% trails u shouldnt be getting a dune port,more something like a hardcore mx port/aggressive trail.

http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/2525567459.html http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/mcy/2482248555.html http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/rvs/2487680564.html http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/gms/2454429167.html a little farther but the deal might be worth the drive.some cheapies.

you should be able to see thru the jets,pilot and main.if u cant,they are plugged,more than likely the pilot.since its so small it happens easier than main.