volcrano

is it possible u got metal shavings from filing ur carb body in there?if so that will toast a top end.

when u talk hillclimb,do u mean in the dunes or in the woods.in the woods i would say hell to the no on shearers.from what i gather they lack bottom,but they are a inframe drag pipe,so thats not what they are built for.dunes,give em a try,but if ur woods,the t5s will be the choice.actually,pcs would be the woods choice.i still cheese over my dmcs tho

421 cheetah cub ported powervalve motor.then run a tall gear for cruising without running high rpms,but still have a powerband that is useable and power to pull a tall gear.prob gonna have to change carbs too depending on what they are.

hows ur cable routing?is it possible it is pulling on throttle anywhere?how much does it rev?to the moon or slightly?i think zilla was on it if its slight.

i agree on the pcs,but have never had pts.every pair i see is beat to shit because of the ram horns hanging.i love my pcs.they have great power all the way and ran great on my ported 4 mil motor too.

i think u have an air leak in that cyl.the other side looks good,if timing and too low of octane were the issue im sure the other side would have grenaded also.i do agree +7 timing is a lil much tho.id run 4 and do a leakdown when u get ur piston.hopefully u didnt scar ur jug and the bore is good.id make sure before u order pistons.

itll be fine.its actually a better oil.4 strokes need the off road oil for its properties.it doesnt break down in extreme heat like others can.regular oil can foam up,and thats why the off road oil is what 4 strokes need to run. as a 4 stroke,the engine oil is the whole system as in top and bottom end.those fuckers get hot hot.u ever seen the header pipe at night.u could start fires with it.literally.

no problem bud,thats what were here for. i also wanna add,if u got 65 psi i dont know how its running lol.u should have no less than 90,but around 100-110 stock,with no less than 5 psi difference between cyls.make sure u have a good gauge,not a autozone junky gauge.get motor to operating temps then shut off.u want the rings to expand and seal the best they can thats why u check it hot.screw gauge in head.hold throttle wide open and kick till it stops.make sure ur key is off.sounds like maybe u did it cold and with closed throttle.

the ones on ebay that are beat to shit look like t3s.need pics of your own actual pipe.go to photobucket and uplaod pics.make a link.easy.

definately compression test.also the pitting on the head could have been caused by a previous failure.minor pitting is ok and runable.the leakdown kit will cost about $20 to make.it should hold 6 psi for 6 mins.1 psi per minute is acceptable but no more or u have a leak.

this is the link u wanted to post. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Yamaha-Banshee-350-Expansion-Exhaust-Pipes-R-L-/140537505258?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item20b8b025ea here is another set of the same pipe http://www.ebay.com/itm/BANSHEE-exhaust-TOOMEY-T3-T4-pipes-silencers-87-06-/290620688034?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item43aa57c6a2 i thought they were toomey t3s,and it seems that they are by the other pics.notice the way they come out of the jug and have the down bend,and also where they go to the silencer the curve and where its welded.

link dont work.post pic of ur bike and well tell u.welcome to the hq!

yes the only wires going into that little round thing on the clutch lever.that is the parking brake plunger and is not needed.just with the bike off,just cut them to where there not connected lol.i cant really explain it better and u cant really fuck it up lol.take side cuts and snip.then start it and rev it.when it runs good,close the open wires off with the heat shrink like i said.

can u read??

unplug tors brain box over left pipe on frame.also,sounds like parking brake.if u still have the factory clutch perch with the wires going to the perch,cut them straight thru with side cuts.there should be 2.snip those wires and grab some heat shrink tubing and put it over the end,hit it with a lighter and smash the end with ur fingers to keep it from shorting.snip those and i bet ur in there bro.report back.i wouldnt b wasting time ohming shit,its parking brake or tors.more likely parking brake.it does that so u cant go with it engaged.sometimes the plunger gets fucked up.everybody removes parking brake anyway.ur buddy didnt do it..

I got a new one on ebay with buy it now for $40 to the house.just incase u were wondering what prices are.these things are worth the money tho for sure.

http://www.dfn.com/agservices/plugchop.html

their pistons are the shit.forged superstocks are made by wiseco and have the vito patent for exhaust cutaway.those pistons really do add hp.u can feel the difference.m&m atv was having a real good deal on cranks.havent heard anything bad about them.

no i havent, i actually i have the wicked arms and they are very well built.they are +1 forward also besides being +2 wide.those rpm did actually look a lil cheap.my buddy had fullflights and the only issue he had was heims squeaking and being stiff as fuck all the time.i did read on here the other day about heim boots,so if u got the fullflights,invest in those too before u even put em on,TRUST ME LOL. http://www.wickedatv.com/duportal30/home/detail.asp?iData=10598&iCat=227&iChannel=8&nChannel=Products these are the shit man.i love em personally.

http://vi.ebaydesc.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=170708559315&t=0&ds=0&js=-1&ssid=100&seller=motorheadzone&category=43974&bv=msie&nv=2&sd=1&caz.html http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Banshee-2-arms-/260851652639?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cbbf8581f if u were replacing all 4 i personally would get +2.they make worlds of difference in stability even with stock shocks.well worth the price.then get extender studs or a +2 axle for the ultimate package.if ur keeping it stock,that new arm for 60 is a good deal.yeah u can buy used but u might end up having the same problem sooner than u'd like.

x2

if its the right side it might be leaking trans fluid into cyl.did u do a leakdown test?do both plugs look the same?if u switch coil wires will it switch cyl misfire?idid u pull needle and seat and make sure there are no obstructions?

agreed.seriously,these people shouldnt even ride period.if u cant use a search button here,which might be difficult for some,use fucking google search.it will pull up everything on that thread in the world!!!!it does get silly when everybody asks the same shit,what jetting should i use when i get my pipes on a stock motor.holy fuck..1000000000 times.27.5 pilot and 280 main.every fucking bike thats stock with pipes.then tune form there using the helpful links that explain how to jet.or google "2 stroke jetting" and read a damn novel on it.FIGURE IT OUT!!!LOL.some of these fuckers i wouldnt let oil a bicycle chain in fear they'd screw it up.

lid or no?with no lid 27.5 pilots and 290-300 because of ur elevation.with lid 280 and adjust air screws,stock pilot might be ok for lid.ull be in the ballpark.