volcrano

id put a top end on it.even if it runs its wore and could lead to disaster sooner than later.if u have more than 5 lbs. difference in cyls. its time.u have 25 lbs. difference.that spinning noise u hear might be your water pump bearing.might wanna replace that too,and get a billet impeller when ur in there.

pffffft.look at my steelers.ben the douche got sacked like 15 times.our offensive line blows and ben is horrible.dont feel bad.

there is a writeup on here about the pro circuits on a serval.actually dynoed more hp than cpis and others on it.look it up using search.

ive done tons of pipes.they look new when im done.thats the way i do it.if u dont polish them after why use any steel wool on em?if u gotta use any abrasive wool,ur shit aint nice chrome anyway.too bad i didnt have good before pics,the set of trinitys i got were beat and now look new using sos and buffer method.

sure can.i use s.o.s. pads.the soap helps.dont be afraid to give it some ass power when scrubbing.u wont hurt em.then get some good metal polish like blue magic,prism polish or comparable.if u got a buffer u can make em look new.if not by hand works well to but not like a buffer.

What kind of shitty plug is that??put a b8es in there and check them after those color.u might be using wrong heat range plug.b8es ngk ftw.

Yes get a carb sync tool.f.a.s.t sells them.they show vaccuum being pulled into carb and are numbered.u can sync to perfection.if ur that close tho,unless ur eyes are terrible it shouldnt be sputtering.sounds like jetting.what is ur jetting?

Cdi would ne my guess

man shipped fast and was just as described.dont hesitate to deal.

Yes i got the pics.pmed ya

I agree.

willing to trade for nice powdercoated +2+1 a arms.no fullflights.looking for upper heims and spindle ball joints on upper and lower.solid mount bottom.i like my wicked arms so something comparable would be excellent.will send pics if interested.have on phone and can txt u.330-414-2899 if interested.

first off get rid of the benol.ive tried that in my shit and it is a very heavy oil.always wanted to foul plugs,even at 40:1.r-50 klotz is worse.before u go jetting,just TRY klotz supertechniplate.it has a lower flash point so it burns instead of carboning up ur jugs and loading plugs.run it 32:1.im telling u it will make a difference,weather it will solve problem or not idk.another thing is a t5 pipe is a mid top pipe.its not a pipe u can lug around and stab it and be in the powerband.u cant have ur cake and eat it too.ur gonna sacrifice somewhere.if u want low mid stab power go pro circuit.im not saying jetting is not out,and i would not go 25 pilot.t5s like 27.5 pilots.my dmc 916 like 30 pilots.it smokes but it doesnt hesitate at all on bottom power so ill deal,at least i know im lubed too.try the supertechniplate,and if ur not ported or have shaved head or cool head with domes,i would also run 87 octane.try it.it is cheaper than buying jets for a qt. of supertechniplate.im not getting into which oil is better,but its a fucking killer oil and it has gained my respect.i used to think amsoil dominator was the shit.the bike ran good but when i tore it down it was like somebody made a campfire in there with all the carbon buildup.that was 40:1 also.my buddy ran supertechniplate for the same amount of time and at teardown the top end looked like it was just built.clean ass pistins,looked new,no carbon at all and a oil covering.i switched and my shit looks the same.oils will make a difference.i hated benol personally,but like i said,r-50 was really bad,maybe on a alcohol drag bike it would be titties but not on a trail bike.310 main could be a tad rich but if its not blubbering,run it.p.s. what are air screw settings too?oh,one more thing.if u dont have a carb sync tool,ur not synched,i dont care if u got 0-0 vision lol.i thought i was good then got a tool.wow.ull shit urself the difference.hope this helped.

Holy shit dude that was like 2 weeks ago.i hope u didnt get fucked by this dude.he seemed flaky.

i personally would get my money back.if the tab breaks and goes into ur water pump impeller and wipes it out,u will overheat,blow motor,u know.i mean,i "could" happen.sounds like someone didnt know they had a lil notch in the head and domne to where they just drop in.must have not been lined up and forced it.

still have carbs????paypal ready!!!!

tried to pm its full.if u got the carbs and filters and jets ill take em.paypal tonite.lemme know please.

definately adjust ur pilot air screw before anything.run it in to 1 turn out.ride it.see what it does and how it responds.then turn it to 2.5 turns out.which did it run better at?if it likes to be out its too rich and u need stock 25 pilot.if it likes being in to 1 u need a 30 pilot.also,go in increments of 1/4 turns between 1 and 2.5 and see if it clears up before changing pilot.it might be slightly off and not need a pilot change at all.also,unless u have the idle kit it shouldnt idle.are u sure u used the sync tool right.if u have it idleing,ur slides are being pulled up by throttle cable tension,so if its idleing check sync at idle and at a steady throttle.they need to be the same.

what do u want for the covers?

lol been wondering that myself.proof or gtfo

hmmmm.use the cheapest 10-30 u can.if u change it every 3 rides like u should ull be great.i love how people spend $15 on a qt. of special gear lube.ive never had a shifting/trans issue EVER and i use cheap valvoline/pennzoil/autozone/bp whatever.save ur cash.if i had probs i would think different but until i do,well, u know.

exactly.if ur riding trails do not get cpis!!!!even on a stock motor i wouldnt think of running them.the pcs will haul ass and the whole powerband is useable.

Like it says,if u got some for a good price please pm me.