volcrano

ill tell u what dude no shit,if u have the time,drop it in a bucket of used motor oil for a week.pull it out and it will look like brand new,granted if its stretched well it aint gonna help that.but if its just rusty and nasty,do it.i found it out because it fell off the shelf and half was in and half was out of the bucket.being lazy i let it go for a minute lol.pulled it out and the part in the oil was shiny clean,just needed wiped off.try it,its great.and to chad,yes use a chain lube,not necessarily wd 40.wd washes away the grease the wax uses and chain needs.also if u google how to correctly oil a chain it will help u.its not just sraying along the chain,that does absolutely nothing.u lube perpendicular to the chain at the bottom of rear sprocket spraying down in the "cog" of the chain.look it up,id post a link but i dunno how.

wow.....

if u want performance of t5 and sound,get dmc 916.i got them and actually think they pull better thru the whole powerband,no lightswitch powerband and pull to the moon.talk about a bad ass sounding pipe too.if u want t5s i got a nice set for sale.pm me if interested.

u put slides in the right carbs????

carb leak sounds like dirt in the needle/seat.pull the bowl and pull float and neele/seat.clean em good and adjust float to specs (i forget what it is).easiest way to gap pick up coil is with a credit card.rotate flywheel to get "tab" over the pick up.loosen pick up,put credit card on tab,push pick up into the card to where when u take ur hand off card the pressure of u pushing the pick up holds the card in place.tighten down pickup and pull out card,license,whatever.ur done.hope it works!!

lid with 6 holes no snorkel 280 mains 27.5 pilot 1.5 out.no lid u might need 300.start with 280 if u wanna keep lid for muddy conditions.get those air box vent filters,they work well.

leakdown will not hurt to do.u check ur plug caps?tight,rusty?flywheel is clean and gap is good?are slides synched correctly in carbs?carb tops tight?silencer packing clogging outlet on left side?u sure reeds sealing correctly and not cracked?did u swap coil wires yet?definately super lean with 240.ull be 290-280 when ur done.check ur grounds.my buddy had a bad stator ground and it did that shit for a while.took forever to figure out since it was internittent.

good looking.if thats the case ill save my $100.

There is a for sale non banshee related topic.

This is the for sale section not wanted.u should wait for unbroken to respond to u.

cpi pipes arent even in the equation for u.stay far far away.they are a drag pipe,made for top end only really.u will be so pissed at urself if u got these lol.keep the pcs for ur riding,they are the best.i had cpis in the woods and my hand was ready to fall off from all the clutching,and thats on a agg.trail/dune ported 4 mil.dont get me wrong for drag,they were insane.but ur not dragging.also,if u cant remedy the tilting,instead of pipes,u might want to look into smaller carbs.smaller carbs will be better for ur riding style and bottom end performance without sacrificing too much top.a 28 0r 30mm tops would be stellar.big carbs are good for top end and nice throttle response,well the flatslides are known for crisp response.

dont do more than one thing at a time,then u wont know what worked,start with the 27.5 pilots.90% of bikes respond better to that pilot with any aftermarket pipe.hell sometimes u gotta run a 30.do the 27.5,if its not better try richening needle after.

It only makes sense.its in the top end,it does it when kicking and when giving a gust of air when hitting the throttle.like i said when rpms are constant or i rev its cool.phelps u got a good set of stock cages for sale?id like to try another set to rule that out.i did change cages and all so tht prob is the case.i had vforce and sold em.if another set of stockers work im gonna have to get a set of chariot cages.ported stockers are better than factory but thet aint to chariot or v3 lol.

Hey guys i need a hand here.when i kick over my motor i can hear this as the piston goes thru its stroke just kicking with it not running.when it is running i dont hear it till it warms a little then it will only sound for a second when i throttle it.if i hold a steady idle or blip it its fine,just giving it a touch and it will make that noise.it sounds like a sea otter to the tee.other description is like there is no lube in the cyl which im 32:1 klotz.could sound like a horn with a sucking sound.its hard to describe like that lol.my gas is like 8 mos. old so im gonna change that tonite as well as all fluids.any ideas?when i stored it last yearin between parts i had the carbs and intakes off and sprayed shit tin of fogging oil in there and taped up with duct tape so i dont see rust being an issue.i also ported reed cages,nothing crazy at all with some tdr reeds.after i put the reeds in i didnt run it for a while tho.i dunno if its reeds making this noise?water pump bearing?it sounds like its in top end somewhere.it has great compression and runs good i just cant stand it.i need to figure it out.btw i took plugs out and sprayed fogging oil in there to for storage so the top end was well lubed.running stock carbs,27.5 pilots,350 mains.this is mu ported 4 mill bike.thanks.u know now im thinking of it,it sounds just like when ur air compressor in ur garage has built its pressure and shuts down,how some have that little squeek/sucking sound as the piston is coming to a stop.thats the best i can describe.help me lol.

nevermind,bought a new set.tyler if u see this please delete.

up top

to the top still looking.very nice t5s here guys.wanna try a different pipe.ill post pics if interest.

since u dont know what porting it is ud have to go with a shortrod crank and use spacer plate for ur ports to line up.so ur not really adding horesepower maybe gaining a lil torque.the way to do it is long rod crank with 513 pistons,ported to the port height for the 4mm by a pro and have the cut stroker domes to actually build a fast motor right.

awwwwwww snap...

dude i swear im typing and when im done u post right before me lol.thats funny.

well just disconnecting the tors at the carbs,u can still have the electrical issue with the brain.so really u wanna just disconnect the brain anyway to make sure u constantly have spark in case it were to go bad.as for getting rid of the tors on the carbs,yep,just to get rid of the big ugliness and give more room for tuning on carbs/jetting.glad it worked.

for starters someone who jets each carb different is an idiot.get that back from the shop and start over.go buy a good compression guage not a harbor freight.start it,get warm and check each cyl with throttle wide open.kick as many times as u can till u dont pull any higher psi on guage.if u are more than 10 out its prob time for rebuild.could be caused by lean condition burned rings up etc. and can be from crank seal,intake gasket,etc.air leaks or lean jetting cause lean conditions.are ur carbs synched???make sure the pilot jet on right side is clean,that will cause a no/rough idle and synch will also screw this up.have u recently repacked silencers?got any packing in the way of exhaust???could have broken reeds flooding out cylinders at low rpm.lots of things to check.

well the choke plunger will prob need to be replaced then if it wont stay out on its own.cant se it being much.mine dont stay out either i just hold it out.as for the not running,unplug the little black box on the left side of frame upbove left pipe.thats the tors "brain".common problem.disconnect and i bet ull be good to go.

dont even consider cpis if ur stock.t5s,hell t6s even,fmf sst pipes are prob gonna be about it for stock bike if u want more top end but dont have the motor for an actual "top end" pipe.not sure about dmcs but i hear they are comparable to t5.dunny was saying r2 rockets performed well on his stocker and lost bottom as he built.maybe send him a line too.