volcrano

as it states guys,wondering if anybody in the area wanted to meet up down there.i havent rode the shee in a while and i wanna get out and rip!!lemme know,its always a blast down there.

no.just unplug everything and blow it with compressed air and put di-electric grease in there and put back together.

they have an exhaust cutout on the dome,they are shorter and the intake ports on them are fucking huge compared to wiseco,stock,etc.they are like a slight port without getting jugs ported as some people refer to it.its not an actual port job,as an actual port will make way more power and u wouldnt want to run these as u would have to cut ur exhaust port accordingly in the cylinder to match the cutout on the vitos,so u would always have to run the vito style piston.on a stock port motor tho,i swear by vitos making NOTICEABLE power increases.they can be pricey tho,especially if u want the goods,which is the vitos superstock forged usa,which is the vitos design made by wiseco pistons,best of both worlds.very nice pistons.

yeah if it just started when u cleaned it u got something wet.check all connections and gasket on ur stator side.if uve had it for a while because u stated it ran the same before jetting,make sure ur slides are in the right carbs.cutout on slide towards back,flat towards front.

you are perfectly fine breaking in the engine at +4.just break it in as normal procedure,doing you heat cycles properly.

x2 sos pad then buff em out with a buffer and metal polish.ive brought alot of turds back to bling that way

i got a buddy that is running them.they looked nice and hes had them for 1.5 yrs and never had an issue and it gets beat.if i was low on cash id buy em all day.if i had cash,vitos superstock forged usa.if i had more money,the m&h pistons and a port job.actually for the cost,ud be damn close to the vitos.buy those pistons and have ur jugs ported and have like $350 in a bad mofo.

i think there is a chain link calculator in this forum,under the first sticky in the forum tech info.as for the boost bottle,i cant see it but i would sell it.it makes no performance increase and will rip ur intakes causing a lean condition which could burn ur motor.esp. the fmf bottle,that fucker is a big gaudy piece of shit lol.

glad i could help buddy!!!!!!

grease and wax remover or solvent from autozones paint section and alot of rags,toothbrush,scrub brush and have fun.

hey if they are the stockers and dont havt the pins,throw them away.if that slide moves its gonna fuck shit up and make it run horrible and u mught get lucky and have it slide where its supposed to be.u need that pin,its an absolute necessity!!!youll never get it right if u dont have that!!!!dont change them yet,pull ur filter and look in and see where there at.if there is no pin and u pull them out ull never know if they turned to the wrong position and will be guessing!!!!!!!!

cmon dude,unlimited amount of voltage lol.i dont think so

you can get them for around $100,little more to much more depending.do not get a ricky stator ever,rm stator is a little better,i have a moose and havent had a problem.i would try and get one of here in nice shape (stocker that is).stockers are much better quality than anything aftermarket,well besides pvl,but then u wouldnt have lighting anyway lol.its not hard,first i would pull the stator cover and ur gonna have to remove the nut and get a flywhhel puller.they are like $13.pull the flywheel and clean the stator and flywheel.itss possible its very dirty and rusty and not making good connections.make sure there are no broken wires on the stator itself and running out of the stator to the harness you were around checking.if you see that its a sure sign thats the prob.if no broken wires but its dirty and you cleaned it,put the flywheel back on making sure the woodruff key is in the right place then tighten it back on.start it and check again.have the light switch on when you test the yellow.

good looking out,that should be a sticky!save people alot of searching and will at least give a ballpark in prices!!!nice!

how did the slide turn?there is a pin in the carb body and a cut in the slide to make it stay where it should.i dont know how u got that to happen,but check and make sure the carb slides are in the right carbs.the cut out part of the bottom of the slide should face the rear of the carb,so if you look in your air box with the filter off you should see the cut out.if the bottom of the slide is flat,you have them backwards in the wrong carbs,and will make it run rich as there is no cutout to let air in and will make it run like yours is.cutout towards back,flat side to the front.a 2-3 second rev will not hurt the engine,unless u have no oil in the fuel,and if it was cold u could have possibility of cold seize,but thats not the case.hope this does it for you.let us know!!slides in right is very important!!!!if thats not it check electrical,but i would bet slides are the issue.

26?it will never have 26,the stator shouldnt put out over 12 volts.check the wires at the stator by ur rear master cyl where the plug is that goes to ur cdi,reg,etc.should be a black and yellow one.start the bike,turn on the light switch and probe the yellow with test light.make sure you have power from stator first,if u dont,thats the problem,if u do check grounds and cut wires.

i had a 2 into 1.it sucked my cock hard.not saying this one is going to be the same,but i wouldnt even try it.as to this comment,alot of people have never tried it and talk shit BECAUSE EVERYBODY THAT HAD HAD ONE KNOWS THEY BLOW!!you are like the 3rd dude here that likes them.why would anybody spend $300 for a shitty pipe.if 90% of people told you something sucked from their experience would you still drop the cash to find out?i guess your the 10% that did and 3% that enjoys it.i cant believe you like that pipe,but im not gonna bash you dude,everybody likes their own thing.i put fatties on and it wanted to rip out of my hands,2 in 1 wouldnt attempt to pull the wheels.i didnt buy it either,it came on a bike i bought for a good price,and its getting sold real quick because everytime i see it i want to shit on it and burn it down to the ground.

its definately the parking brake.pull the plunger out of ur clutch housing and cut the plunger off.put a piece of heat shrink tubing around where u cut,melt and pinch shut.then ride out.

yes they do

a yamaha dealer,or try carb parts warehouse in cleveland,ohio

make sure ur run switch is on and hooked up and also for your key switch.make sure your black and orange coil wires are hooked up.test stator,just because the lights work dont mean its good,but since you had it running before,u did something to it.go back over everything u did electrical,the answer is there you just gotta find it.its something you did,it wont go bad just by sitting.good luck.

do u sell the longer rods kev?i know the clutch is good,its a fast clutch with like 15 hours on it,with a magnum billet basket and now a lockout.i noticed i got a little knocking noise down there tho but when i disengage the clutch it stops.could this be i just have it adjusted out to far and the ball and rod are slapping around?i have it adjusted to where my screw on clutch lever is like 2 turns out from all the way in and the clutch engages quick off the bars.i like my clutch being close like that but then that makes for alot of freeplay in the cable.i have like 1/2 inch before i disengage clutch.is it bad to run it like that cuz i hate having it adjusted to where clutch engages like 3/4 way out on bars.

x2 pro circuit!!!!

its installed correctly-i have a question.the factory 12mm nut that locks down the adjuster doesnt go on all the way because of the adjustment.its threaded on roughly half of its threads and i did locktite it to prevent it from loosening and falling into the case.is this ok/normal for it not to thread all the way or do i need a thinner nut to put on there.thanks.

i would not but rings for a stock piston for a rebuild.get it bored with forged pistons and dont worry about it.then if u wanted after a year or 2 to freshen uo you could re-ring a forged piston in good shape with new top end bearings,but why waste time with old cast pistons that could let go and cause catastrophy.i wouldnt but thats me.like fire said,if its eggshaped,and if its alittle older its likely to be that way.have piece of mind and do it right with forged and a bore and ride the fuck out...or ride it till it has no compression to make you need to move your feet on it,if it still has good power and you are low on money,ride it.im thinking since you said its time tho the compression is low,otherwise it would be a waste of money..