volcrano

whatcha want for em.i dont really wanna pay $60.everybody and their mom sells them for $60.let me know,plus i can drive on over!

if anybody has a nice set,please pm me,im really looking for a set.thanks!

thanks dick.damn,i did it again.one of these days ill get it.

bump

wow.that looks horrible,and way too thin.you should have roughly 4mm centers where the reeds lay,and about 6.5mm from center of mounting screws,which u went ape shit on and behind them.where did u get your specs or information on this.i agree with ddu,time for another set.

dark brown.too rich.down jet mains.id bet u should be 260 in these temps.250 in summer.

x2.lets put periods in the middle if sentences,awesome.i couldnt barely put that babble together.rules dont apply to noobs i guess.also,really and intelligent have 2 l's if we should be so smart .

i would have to agree with larry,i was gonna say that yesterday.id go with threebond in ur situation.u know its impervious to all the substances in the motor,thats what seals the motor.id do that,then again,ebay,u can find em dirt cheap,well,sometimes.

usually when ur sputtering and falling on its face like that ur too rich,what do ur plugs look like??280 seems high for mikuni flats.plug check...

well u gotta pull the bowls and see what u got.u got an airbox lid on it?if so,pull it off and see if it gets better.if so ur rich.if u dont,put one on or tape 3/4 of it off.if its worse its rich.if better its lean.thats the quick way to give u an idea since u dont know,but pull ur bowls and find out what jets are in it.

holy shit.very interesting.now,so is the proper way to see what fuel to run dependant on exhaust port height with xx? size domes.now since it says the higher the port,u will have lower compression with same domes as a motor with lower exhaust port,due to the larger charge,scavenging and crown temps.so how do u know what octane to run compared to exhaust port height?i know with my port on my 4 mill,the exhaust looked huge for a aggressive trail/dune port,i have standard base gasket and domes cut to 20cc.ive been running 93,and compression is around 140 psi.i havent had detonation issues,but wonder now the formula to figure octane to port height since compression ive learned isnt the way to accurately know.am i in the ballpark of figuring this out lol??mopar,i saw u replied as i was writing this.so uccr is that hooking up the gauge and kicking like how everybody checks?how do u find the volume number between the roof of the exhaust port and above (i believe u mean roof of the ex. port to the top of the dome?),and comparing that to whats above the piston at tdc (i believe this is the squish??).

you are right,u would prob blow it up.elevation makes a huge difference and 800 ft. and 4300 ft. is a huge difference.im at 1200 feet and going to run 20s on 93.my buddy is running 19s at my elevation,and 87.its just a matter of time before it go bang bang.

ok,i understand.so at what psi do u need straight 110 or 50/50?is it somewhere like 180 and up to run straight race fuel?bear with me,im learning

what was it,fuel leaking from top of case down the hatch?i had that prob and was like wtf lol.

pick up gap is easily set with credit card.set one of the 2 humps on the flywheel over the pick up,loosen pickup,stick credit card btween hump and pickup,push pickup into credit card and tighten.also.common prob,un-plug the tors brain box,on frame on left side,underneath by upper left pipe mount.unplug,grab a good plug,stick it in the cap,ground it to head and turn over to check for spark.take both plugs out of cyls so it can be kicked by hand.hope this helps.

what jets are in it,mods?sounds rich.

ok.so what new information are you stating that wasnt already known.over 160 psi,race gas,got it.higher compression=need for more octane,got it.higher compression=tighter squish,got it.so whats the other way to determine what octane to run besides compression?

oh hes still up and running.unfortunately.

ttt,anybody with nice 20cc gas domes?ready to pay.

with 91,play it safe,run 20s.

elaborate please.i thought over 160 psi u needed race fuel to prevent detonation.what other method to determine what octane to run for ? compression is there.im not being a turd.im curious to know if im misinformed.

x2 with everything said here.if u never tried to rotate it after the build,maybe u just dont have something together right on clutch side.i really dont like the way u put mystery oil in there and 10-40,if nu soaked the walls with 2 stroke when u built it,even after 3 years i would like to think the oil still kept rust out.pull the clutch side,see whats up.do u have like a blunt long brass punch or similar object to fit into the spark plug hole and try to push down on the piston to try to get movement.or pull stator side and turn the flywheel by hand and see if something is binding on the clutch side.if not,ur gonna have to definately break the pistons loose from the cyl and pull the jugs.if it rusted in there,u might luck out and be able to run a spring hone to clean the jugs and scuff the rings or replace.i cant see the crank being rusted,but u never know.one way to find out...good luck.hard to believe u didnt want to turn it over when u built it.i always do,it gives me woody lol.

well thank you for all you guys do for our country,i commend u on that!!!ok,according to noss machine website,for your elevation u will get the most power running 19ccs and still run 93.if i were u id run 19s.im going to run 20cc but im 1100 ft.ull be fine with 19s at 4300.

19s or possibly 18s.i just looked at the site yesterday but didnt really pay attention to ur elevation.go to noss performance website,and on the first page scroll down to where it will tell u what domes give what compression aat what elevation.u are good on 93 up to about 160 psi.over 160 psi ull have to run race fuel.p.s.,chariot heads are the shit,never had a problem with anything leaking,they look stellar and i just bought another off ebay for $90 yesterday.love em.

if u got a set of nice sb 20cc domes for pro design,chariot,and alike,let me know.thanks