volcrano

any yamaha powersports dealer should have all the jets u neeed.i always go to mine and grab whatever.call em.i wouldnt order them unless u have time to wait for them to arrive.

i guarantee u put the slides in backwards.the cutaway on the slide faces the back of the carb,so taking ur air filter off and looking thru at the slides,u should see a little quarter moon cutout at the bottom.if u dont see that,u put the slides backwards in the wrong carburetors.switch them.

actually the 50:1 makes the air/fuel ratio richer.there is less oil and more gas hence richer.with 32:1 there is more oil meaning less gas,so leaner air/fuel ratio since the oil doesnt burn,unless u have one with a low flash point.but u do have to keep in mind the lubrication aspect of the ratio,meaning yes,the lower the ratio,the better the lubrication as stated.i love my klotz supertechniplate at 32:1 with 93 in my ported 4mill also.the klotz has a lower flash point and will burn off a little,but i like that.keeps the motor clean than a oil with high flash point that stays in the cyls getting baked on everywhere and causing a carboned up disaster.my .2 cents.just jet accordingly.i think the 32:1 ratio is one u can never go wrong.4oz. per gallon.and to the dude running 100:1,wtf!!!!???think i know why its down.

are the $200 carbs and $100 twist throttle gold plated??u got some retail or higher prices bro.new twist throttle with cable is $50 with free shipping.

i got a set of old school feel the power fmf pipes and silencers.one has a welded tab but they clean up pretty good.let me know if ur interested,i could put a polish on them first.

as much as i hate to say it,i think that frame looks tits!!id love to have that,but nowhere near $856 to start.hell to the no.

it might be too rich now.the crossover in the chariot intake is very small compared to stock tube.not saying thats it,but do a plug check.spray wd-40 around the intakes.if idle raises,its got a leak,if not i would call it good.they have cooland bottle relocation kits.i think jeff sells them too,so get one when u order pods.normal filter?the little see thru ones?get one of those from jeff too since ur having an order shipped.u really dont need a filter tho,there are filters on the petcock inside the tank.

i think that dirtbike will get smoked if the banshee is jetted properly.i mean dirtbikes are fast but i just dont see the top end banshees do.i got a piped,rad valved,jetted kx250 and when my shee was stock with fmfs and vitos pistons me and my buddy raced them,shee always killed,i mean,killed it.that dirtbike shoudnt have a chance.cpi pipes pull like a whore up top.

dont know how to post a link,but get on ebay and type in "banshee pipes".about 1/3 way down the 1st page you'll see them.they are listed only as "banshee pipes".check it out,they are just silencers,and ugly as all hell.from imagecustomsracing.get em while they're hot.11 different styles from diarrhea to vomit.yyeeeaaaahhh,ooooooookkkkkkk lol.

its supposed to kill it if u pull the choke and its warm.sometimes when its warm u wont have to use choke,but i dont think thats the case.i know u synched by using windows so this shouldnt be an issue,but are u sure u did that right and the slides arent in backwards.cutouts towards rear looking thru the airbox u should see the half moons.if its starting cold with no choke,that puts me in that direction.what size pilots u running?i suppose it could be rich,but even that is the low circuit and doesnt affect top end but slight.if u are 2 turns out,go 3.if its worse,u are lean,go back in.same as the other,if u run it in to 1 and it gets worse,its too rich.id check those slides,unless u never took them out.play with air screws,1/4 turns at a time once u figure out if ur lean or rich.

when u pull the choke it will kill it if it is hot and jetted correctly.the choke richens the mixture,so if its hot and pulling the choke makes it run better,its to lean,more than not on the pilot circuit when that happens.choking it richens the mix when cold so it starts easy,but im sure u notice when it warms if u leave the choke out,it will die,it gets too rich.300 main is high,u should be like 280 at 1300 ft.also,i will put money that the change in oil did it.drain and fill with the regular fluid u use.

yeah,check for air leaks,but pull off ur filter and make sure slides are closing.its a 2 minute check.it sounds like they are stuck up,or something with the cable.is there idle screws for the tors delete?they still in there???

gotcha,im gonna go to fastenal here and see if they got any acorns.if not,sealant it is.thanks fellas.

sounds like the whole problem is in ur kicker area.pull the clutch cover and see whats up with the kicker gear and parts in there,bushings,whatnot.check to make sure ur gears are good and meshing right from kicker gear to clutch basket gear to crank gear.while u have the cover off,replace water pump seal and make sure bearing is good.replace rubber o-ring on water neck tube that goes thru the case and get the paper gasket for the water pump cover.as for stator,its still good,match the colors and solder them back together and use heat shrink tubing when u do it.its been a while,but i believe there is the 4 for the plug and i wanna say the black and yellow stay seperate from the block plug,the are for lighting and should connect to the other black and yellow by rear brake reservoir to the other ones.hope this helps

hey guys,i put a chariot cool head on my stocker,but have a lil liquid around a few studs on the head.now im using stock nuts with some harbor freight copper washers,new of course,but im wondering if u absolutely have to use the acorns that they would give u with the kit.i think if i had the acorns it wouldnt leak around the threads and if it did it wouldnt go anywhere because it would be sealed.is this right?ive been told i can use the stock nuts,but i only warmed it up and a few are having a lil liquid starting to show.i also didnt use the o rings that go around studs,but if i remember correctly u dont with the chariot head.its not leaking at the copper washers,they seem seales to the head,just around a few threads.any help would be awesome.

if u dont climb alot of rutted hills,run 20s.they will do fine.if u do run the hills tho id run 22s.ive gottn hung up on hills with skidplates on 20s and its not fun at all.i leave them off now,id rather tweak a rotor and bend it back then get stuck 3/4 up a nasty hill.been there done that.as for the 2 in 1 pipe.they are terrible in the woods.i dont know how people like them or they ever even sold,but ull have a little more bottom,then no mid and absolutely no top.i had one on my stocker when i got it.omg,that thing was a turd.i didnt even like riding it.almost fucked me a couple times climbing hills from the lack of a ridable powerband.sell that pipe and get some pro circuits.ull have the same bottom as the 2 in 1 and a top end that will rip ur arms off.power when u need it,thats what u want for the woods,u never know what situation is gonna present itself.grab u a chariot head with the smallest domes u can run too for power.port ur reed cages urself and run it.u can add 4 degrees timing for more power and change gearing to a 13t front for more bottom too.that will be a good woods set up.u gonna paint ur frame? lol?

moe,how can u say near flawless pipes when they have a huge ugly dent and possibly another one?and $400????wow.

shipped next day,gave tracking info,very good transaction.thanks joel

there shouldnt be a hole.the only thing under the front sprocket is the neutral switch and to the right of that the shifter shaft which also has a seal.

i had that shit happen on my stocker.i just put oem springs in,thats the only way it would pull even.i dont know what all riding u do,but a lockout is one of the best things ive ever bought,and u can use factory springs but still get the grip.im not saying to hell with the prob ur having and get a lockout,but they are wonderful.i ride woods/trails with mine,not a problem.

thread is dead ass old

ill tell u what,ive seen clean port jobs on here from sponsors,and his looks every bit as good or better.that bitch rips.its like my kx 250 in all seriousness.when u start letting out the clutch,ur nutsack better be teabagging the gas cap,cuz that bitch is gonna come up,and dude,im 6'2" 285 lbs and it will stand up no problems,till 4th anyway.yes,i agree,for the money,im extremely impressed too.i think when my 96 blows tho,i do wanna go flotek.heard many good things on that side too.

dude unless u want t5s,get on ebay or buy new.nobody is getting rid of the pipes u want.ive been trying to find 916s and trinitys for a month.not a bite.

interesting valid point.break her in mat,then check compression.

what in the ass clown is this!!!!really,use FRESH tires lol.clean pipes INSIDE out lol.dont get me wrong u have a few good suggestions in there,but god damn son.also,spellcheck please.i know im kinda retarded but it took 5 mins to figure that out lol.not getting off subject but i couldnt let that go unpunished