BansheeDan

He said that was for re-valve,re-spring (not sure of rate)and new nitrogen charge

i talked to darrel at works 2 days ago and for them to re-valve and re-spring the shock with a new nitrogen charge its 229.00.....if there is no other damage darrel also told me that once it is done to buy a works shock with equilivent adjustments would be in the 850.00 to 900.00 range......think ill be sending ine in .....lol

ok heres the deal....i doing a ground up rebuild on a 01 shee. before i pulled the bike down there was a lil slop in the swingarm...not too bad but it was noticeable well after i got it down there is no slop between the outside of the tube and the needle bearings. so my question is do these pivot tubes and bolts wear out and if so where can i get them ? thanx Dan

All i can say is jeff is awesome..... i called him a couple times with questions before i ordedred anything...answered all my questions even though i didnt spend any money......then yesterday i call and order my trail tech lights and chain roller/slider.....again awesome answered all my questions even though he was sick as hell he took the time to get me what i needed..... Jeff is a great guy and i will for sure be doing more buisness with him.......

you can also pull out the two allen head screws that hold the silencer on the stinger tube

derrick..... there is camping but not right on the dunes.... and as far as the spark arrestors they wont even let you on the dunes without them.... you can get the clamp on sparky's for like 70.00 a piece at RMATV and also they do DB testing as well and the limit is 98DB....just to let ya know

winmx all the way here 3500 mp3s in my pc and counting

200.00 for piston kit and gaskets 150.00 ish bore/hone thats if you do it yourself.... add a cpl hundred to that for someone else to re do it and put it back together

actually shrink and decrypter arent able to do some of the new movies.......the best thing for doing dvd movies is ANY DVD and CLONE DVD2 just my .02

.020 isnt bad.....lotsa life left in those clys. yet my motor is at the builders now and my clys. had a thousandths and a half taper in them not enought to even worry about really but i got a smokin deal on a .040 piston kit with cometic gaskets off ebay so .040 it is...(got the kit complete for 115.00 to the door) your setup sounds good to me....i am very partial to toomey t5's so if it were me id ditch the FMF's and get a nice set of t5's the are IMO the best sounding/performing pipe out there. as far as performance the .020 over is good for 1 hp maybe 2 at the very most....displacement dosent do anythng for hp till you do the other things to go with it......porting,carbs,etc

by that schematic it looks like it would be the yellow the blue and the yellow/red for all the time high beams

you need to pull off the carb on the side that has the problem,the pull the float bowl off that carb take the main jet outta the carb and blow it out with a air compresser and then clean the whole carb with float bowl still off with carb cleaner and hit the main jet with cleaner also...... if that dosent help then i would say you have a float issue on that same carb....its sticking closed or the needle and seat might be bad... either way i see it as being a carb issue not an ignition problem........ hope this helps ya out... Dan

you need to pull off the carb on the side that has the problem,the pull the float bowl off that carb take the main jet outta the carb and blow it out with a air compresser and then clean the whole carb with float bowl still off with carb cleaner and hit the main jet with cleaner also...... if that dosent help then i would say you have a float issue on that same carb....its sticking closed or the needle and seat might be bad... either way i see it as being a carb issue not an ignition problem........ hope this helps ya out... Dan

you need to pull off the carb on the side that has the problem,the pull the float bowl off that carb take the main jet outta the carb and blow it out with a air compresser and then clean the whole carb with float bowl still off with carb cleaner and hit the main jet with cleaner also...... if that dosent help then i would say you have a float issue on that same carb....its sticking closed or the needle and seat might be bad... either way i see it as being a carb issue not an ignition problem........ hope this helps ya out... Dan

what do you want for the laser stars and the skat traks and can you send pics to [email protected] thanx

98 db's is max from what i understand so make sure the packing is new....and as always in MI spark arresters are a must and they do check also need the obvious orv sticker and daily state park sticker

i called and talked to eddie at janssen yesterdan and those encapsulated heims are like 58.00 a piece IMO rediculious.... i can buy the standard heims at my local race shop for 20.00 a piece......janssen wants double that for standards.....

send me some pics to [email protected] im in lansing so not too far from you

WORD!!!! :thumbsup:

i dont know how it could happen but it could by the sounds of what you are discribing be one of those half moon looking things that go in the case sides by the crank(almost looks like 1/2 a piston ring)

id say you have a problem wit your bike.....i have a 01 and raced a 700 craptor on the street and put bus links on it the only thing done to my bike is t5s +4 key and race gas

i dont know from personal experiance but boondockers says you can use there kit at ANY rpm in ANY throttle position.....might be worth checking it out..... :beer:

i actually have a voice chat server i pay for monthly for gaming...called teamspeak it works really good small download too got to www.goteamspeak.com and d/l the client less then 5 mb i think and here is the ip to my server feel free to stop by anytime 38.133.64.114:7100 enter the ip exactly as itis here my nick on there is Cracker

i think the yellow plastics with the black frame and chrome would be bad ass......

i am REALLY interested in the frame shoot me a pm or email me at [email protected]