BansheeDan

pull off the have moon shaped cover on the right side of the motor in front of the flywheel cover i wont give ya any shit......we all have to start somewhere

GearSaver all the way here!!!

i have been told by many builders......A&S,RDZ,ETC. that stock carbs are good up to about 70-75 hp..... if youre under that which you are with your mods stcokers will run excellent you will be throwing youre money away for bigger ones unless you plan to do port work in the future

i have a 01 2dr s-10 blazer..... there 6 1/2's in the doors....not 6 3/4 as far as speakers in that area i have Lanzar 6 1/2 2 ways with the moveable center tweeter for what i paid for them they sound great on my alpine my blazer differs from your truck in the fact that my rear speakers are 6x9's from the factory.. i have kenwood 4 way 6x9's in there and im positive youre not gonna get them 6x9's in the doors like the other guy said if money isnt a big thing then components are the way to go but if money is an issue like it was for me the Lanzars are a good choice like i said i have them in my doors and in my dash and they sound great

hope your lil one is ok man.....thoughts and prayers go out to you and your family

i just got a .040 weisco kit off ebay with a cometic top end gasket set for 117.00 to my door off ebay......keep lookin youll find a good deal......

yeah like.....what he said.....lol dan from a&s told me some folks call the 72mm's super cubs...... but basically there the same cyls....just the 72's are a larger bore he quoted me close to 3,000.00 for the full cub motor 72mm v-forces 34mm keihns 4 mill stroker crank and rods w/pistons pro-design cool head that includes taking the motor out of the bike,doing all the work,all the above new parts and jetting it on his dyno i thought it was a pretty good deal considering what your getting but i just cant pony up that kinda ching right now....so .040 over stockers it is.....lol

craptor 700's are junk....... i smoked one that was piped and camed with my 01 shee with the mods in my sig on the street i got him by all of 10 quads......i even holeshotted him bad which is a surprise cause on the street yfz450s kill me till the top of 4th gear dont let him keep bullshitting you....tell him to put that junk in the street and whoop his 4 stroke havin ass!!! :beer: :beer:

that guys shop is like 15 min from my house....he does do killer work....a buncha guys i know have his swingers......but im pretty sure he dosent do a roundhouse

best thing to do would be to go get yourself a YAMAHA service manual..... all the correct torque specs are there ..... i personally dont like the clymers manual,the torque specs are different then the yamaha.

man i know first hand how that feels......had my $10k blaster stolen in oct of 05 and have seen or heard nothing of it since.....its the one in my sig at the bottom but i did get my banshee in january (3 mos after)and now i wondered why i ever bought a blaster in the first place.....lol hope ya find it man........and if ya do gimme a call i have some aggression for them fuckin thevin bastards already.....ill help ya knock a cpl heads! :beer:

i have a g-force in my shee....and i like it......performes just as well as a 350.00 dura-blue and has the same warrenty.....hell if you took the g-force sticker off and put a dura-blue sticker on it no one would know the difference...the lock nut is almost identical to the dura-blue and all.... great axle for the money IMO.

yeah it was.........till some asshole decided he wanted it more then i did had over 10 grand in it

its gonna make a pretty big difference...but if youre not riding in tight trails you shouldnt have much of a problem........gonna loose a lil bite too but if your extending the swinger thats the idea is to make the tires break loose a lil and not hook and pull the front tires off the ground

im in lansing.......we got to hook up and go to harrison to ride....the leota trails are killer....sand and hard pack trails.....can camp right there and all........there is also mio michigan(bull gap)....which is atv paradise...can come out of the trails and LEGALLY ride down the side of the road to the bar,gas station,etc........ we also winter ride too.....tip up town on houghton lake.....and at leota trails...

i would go up a step or two on the mains and see where you are from there.....

.80 is as far as you can go with a blaster ...if you go any further you make the wall too thin and it will over heat/crack

have you checked the float level?

can i have the outsides of my cyls. bead or sandblasted after the bore work is done? ive seen a bunch of the bead blasted cyls, and have just decided to do it if i can i just got the cyls. back from the machine shop..... also can port work be done after bore work as well?? thanx for any input

whats up brad....... ive heard the cascades are a good product... im gonna order a set myself when i get my new pipes...(CPI's or new T5's havent decided)

youll have no prob with that craptor junk......i raced one with my shee...all i had at the time was t5's,+4 timing and a k&n and proflow set up with no lid.........bus links on the street side by side for well over a 1/4 mile

the banshee clutch is a wet clutch system.......therefore you cannot drill a hole in the cover or you wll loose all the gear oil... you have to drain the oil and pull at least the round center cover off (the one you asked about drilling)but its prolly just as easy to pull the whole side cover off

well stock is 230 on any shee ive seen so yeah to me that is way small

they set up a practice oval here by lansing at a place called park lake.........has the oval and 2 ice drag strips......

i would pay to see him tell Dan Hull from a&s or espically rob from rdz that they aint got shit.......