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Screaming Yellow Zonker

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Everything posted by Screaming Yellow Zonker

  1. Sounds like you bought an abused bike. you can pull the clutch side cover off and check the action of the shifter. but I think you have a worn out shift drum and possibly bent shift forks. I hope it is something simple for you. good luck
  2. I would bump your pilot jets up.
  3. I would stay safe and run 4-5 degrees. I am set to 4 degrees right now.
  4. Time to remove the T.O.R.S. unit. the electrical connector to the thumb throttle, clutch lever, carbs and little black box next to the coil. Good luck!
  5. Damn!!! That makes me want to pull my arm out and inspect it. I am going on a trip next month. a little assurance won't hurt...
  6. Stock compression should be around 120 If the engine has the vin stamped on it you can go off the 8th digit. As far as the clutch goes it is best to split the case and clean everything or another failure will occur.
  7. With an adjustable timing plate :biggrin:
  8. it is where the trans automatically shifts to the next gear all by itself :biggrin: I personally want a dunable override. FAST sells them.
  9. Bel Ray 80wt 2-3 times a year. the type F you have to change more often but more readily available than the Bel Ray.
  10. The trinity head should come with a funky head nut that allows the use of the stock studs.
  11. to me your prob sounds like the pilot jet. sludge build up in the jet will make it a pain to start and will keep it from idling. I take a piece of wire and run it through the jet. you can also use a torch tip cleaner.
  12. it is no prob to find the meth or alcohol but I was just trying to run a little more octain with out going the race gas.
  13. damn. No one else has ever messed with it. I know E-85 is like 100-105 octain and it is cheaper than race fuel. I might just have to get some and try it out.
  14. Does anyone run E-85 in their bike or know anyone that does. would you have to increase jet sizes. How does it blend with oil. Does it separate? Thanks Jeremy
  15. the only way it would change is if the key way was machined in the wrong spot. Other than that when it says 5* it is 5*.
  16. handle grip glue :biggrin:
  17. I tried them in my 71 Dodge Big block and they SUCK! I put Champions in and it ran 100 times better.
  18. I've replaced my clutch side crank seal with out splitting the case. And knock on wood I have not had any problems yet. It is a pain in the a$$ to get the old seal out though. And you have to be very careful when reinstalling the seal.
  19. here you go. Right click save as....
  20. take a drywall or deck screw and screw it into the seal and use pliers to pull it out. Coat the new seal lightly with rtv and push it in. Once you do it it'll be simple.
  21. I would not change it. too much gap causes a lot of resistance and you might blow a coil or wire and too little will cause plug failure. the Mfg recommends a gap that is suitable for the CDI and the coils.
  22. I had that shit happen in the dunes while I was racing. I had to get it out some how? I did and got back to racing. It was a PITA and tool a few min to do so.
  23. when you replaced the coil did you replace the plug wires with it? The plug wires have resistors in the caps that can go bad. have you swapped the wires from side to side?
  24. it is the 10th digit. L=90 M=91 N=92 and so on
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