Washburn

I think that looks fantastic. How much were those UFO Plastics? I think I might go with a Flame and Skulls sticker set for my stock plastic but Ive never had a grafix kit on any of my bikes and Im not so sure If I will either llove it or think it looks corney. 90 bucks its worth a shot. They look insane. http://www.verdepowersports.com/Graphics/B...KBG.html?id=433

Man Ide never put 87 in any of my toys. The Banshee calls for preium pump fuel says so rite in the owners book and you would actualy notice a diffrence. Put some 91-93 octane in and open it up ona long strech it will be noticable. I understand not wanting to use race fuel Im around 160 psi in each cylinder and Im going to mix 110-93 50/50 mabey a little more 110 to 1 of 93. 3 5 gal gas tanks 1 full of 110 one full of 93 and one to mix the two. but useing 87 is disrespectfull to the SHEE.

Just curious What type of riding do you do and how much area did you cover? Does he have skid plates? when I paint fire escapes I wait a day for the primer to totaly dry sweep off whatever debris that may have accumulated then paint. If not dry it will bubble up after you put the final coats on it. I would do the same for the bike just to be on the safe side. When you paint it Ide also wait a full 24 hours before you ride it. You dont want all sorts of dirt/sand sticking.

Good reasonable question. answer is I have smacked and bent 2 left upper chromoly a arms before by smacking trees in woods racing senarios and the frame was always fine. Frames are suposto tweak/crack for less impact if your in that serious of a wreck. Im more worried about rocks and trees/ruts hard jumps bending my arms then if you do tweak the frame some you can still finish a race not the case with bent a arms. Only time I bent a frame racing is when I bent my axle and smacked a tree head on and 1 time when I was younger I was going up a hill on my LT160 and a blaster jumped down the hill and hit me head on the frame bent in a S like it was suposto to and I dident get hurt at all.

First thats a very very sweet deal these guys are offering on Elka shocks. Scoop a set you will not be dissapointed. I used to sell Elkas on here Works and Axis too but everyone bought the Elkas and they made the rite choice for Elka vs Works. Ive rode on Works shocks so many times on so many diffrent bikes (All dirt riding I nenver rode in the dunes) along with Elkas and Custom Axis and Works just arent in the same leauge its actualy a joke compaeing the two up where I ride. Works always seem to be stiff as balls even setup rite compared to the others and alot of the guys bikes I rode are pro MX And GNCC Guys or just seriously good riders and they all have diffrent oppions on whats better between Elka Axis PEP (Though Ive heard most guys say they like PEP for motocross Elka and Axis for other . Most chosing Axis because of the valving you get direct from the company but if you get the rite person to order your Elkas and tell Elka your specifics Elka does just as well at valving as Axis PEP ect (never rode on TCS) but Ive never heard any of them put Works in the same leauge. But everyone is entitled to their oppion. Now as far as I know Elka doesnt do Tripple rate std travle for the Banshee unless you go with a LT setup and thats ususualy a quad rate setup.(Might be an error with the ebay store people) Banshees call for dual rate Elka shocks because of the length of shocks Banshees call for and I see this company is selling dual rates for 360.00 so talk to them. If your a weekend warrior and hit up the occasional MX track here and there the basic Elkas is all you really need but if your going to be racing MX I highly recomend a resivior and atleast comp adjustable shocks rebound too actualy for diffrent track conditions and if you ride woods sand ect along with MX Tracks your going to want as many adjustments as you can afford.(I will be racing GNCC alot of diffrent tracks and terrain changes there so I ponyed up saved my ass off and bought Elka Elites all around it was damn expensive though) But at the price they are selling the Elka non Rezzy e36 shocks at you could buy a set if thats all you can afford for now save up for shocks with more adjustments and sell the e36s youll be useing if you decide to go this route (again I highly recomend you do so) and not take a big loss at all for 360.00 for fronts. Like I said great price. Most places are selling the exact same shocks for 450.00.

They are just about the best most proven A-Arms ever made. Thats what I was going to get for my XC Banshee untill I found out they now only offer +2 and not +1 forward control arms for the Banshee anymore so I went with my second and just as good arms Lonestar +2+1 Racing A Arms. I really like the JB Racing A Arms also (Actualy my first choice and when I get a 450 I will definatly get a set) they use the same quality material and parts (and I could of got them for a really nice price) as Laegers, LSR, and Roll Design$$$$ but are a little thicker and stronger but they dont offer them for the Banshee.

Its how good you are. Most cant handle a banshee for MX but if youve been exposed to two smokes your whole life you wont have to adapt to something diffrent unless you need too or are sponcered. Look at my mod list and youll see what you need to compete owning a banshee vs a 450r. I bought it all because of what I know and what machine I want. Figure in Ive rode and can ride anything I want I dident just start spending thousands cause I have a banshee plus now that I have all of that money sunk into it Ide be a complete moron to switch BUT It gets up there in price tom Im tellin you buddie :biggrin: EDIT Its (TOO ME) Not Tommy

The Boyesen Rad Valve reed setup looks like it might have a better design to it than VF3s but VF3s are far more common and proven in every style of motor you can think of. Thats why I went with the V Force 3s and I am extremely happy I made that choice. RAD VALVE http://www.ridegear.com/rg/item/F-38042/Bo...tock-87-06.html V FORCE http://www.procycle-online.com/reeds/vforce.htm Edit: You can find them cheaper on Ebay or one of the site sponcers could hook you up for a better price. These are the first sites with pics that poped up so I posted them.

Buying a matching set of cases is the rite thing to do, tolerance/clearing issues, matching perfectly ect.. your gambeling just buying the one and that could end up costing 3xs what you need now in the long run. look for a set of already ported cyls to specs your looking for on ebay and that should save you some cabbage. Im not sure about tax. I sent a package that weighed around 45-50lbs to Australia and it costed 210.00 to ship UPS

Thats alot of motor for that kind of riding and the extended swingarm doesnt help matters but going back to a stocker would probably leave you standing up comming out of those ruts and that could lead to some painfull expirences. But if your spinning that bad and the new tires dont work mabey you could try a stock one again just be carefull and get the feel of how the bike will handle. Ide try out some 22in fronts and 20in rears Razr 2s would be my choice. They have great controll in the ruts the big lugs get you in and if it changes to an unexpected rut at higher speeds they will pull you rite out and they wont leave you hung up on an edge, good transition tire for that type of riding because of the tread design :thumbsup:

Man sorry to hear, Youde like to think will all of the misfortune alot of good things are going to come your way in the future. I and the rest of the HQ are pullin for you and yours Greg, Good Luck

Go to your local shop and have them MIC them for you Im sure they wont charge you for something that simple. They do look like snowmobile carbs and they definatly look like they are in the 40 and up range.

The YFZ450/Banshee front end conversion is not garbage. It is a pretty good improvment from 20 year old cheap technology.. You need the yfz450 A Arms too though.

If you have all of the bolt on mods they will give you a little more if your going to get a good agressive all around port job is where they will help the most. Ide look into a port job first then save for the carbs to compliment the port job even further. Yes they are good carbs PWK Knockoffs all of the internal parts are interchangable with genuine Keihin PWK parts. What mods do you have now?

His screenname is actualy 530grafix I think they would fit on your tank with some room left. but I dont think that is anything a black or whatever color matches the grafix kit plain stickers wouldnt blend rite in. Chase could hook you up if you give him dimentions of the leftover space on your tank.

I owned a LT250R For years stock motor piped reeds basic mods and I ripped up aluminum and steel sprockets. It has alot to do with adjustment and something to do with how you ride trans stops ripping through gears short shifting ect. I have steel ones on the SHEE now and I am almost due for new ones they are wearing out out of proportion.

Its whatever makes you happy is what it boils down too. I think for 150.00 you could get those tight custom kits http://catalog.goforitgraphics.com/artwork.php This kit is tight as hell and its only 89.99 http://www.verdepowersports.com/Graphics/B...KBG.html?id=493 https://www.securebinarymachines.com/Verde_...anshee+Graphics If I was willing to spend money on making my bikes plastic look sick I would probably go with airbrush though. Talk to 530Graffix he airbrushes quads and Im sure he would have some insight for you. Im really not feelin the banshee on the tank though. Ide do something like a piece on the tank (whatever makes you happy) Like my Dog Shadow that passed about a year ago howling at the moon with mountains and some stars in the backround and then ide get the guy to do a cheaper design on all of the plastics like some lightning or smoke. Something simple that would pop, match your tank scheme (that would be the center piece and the most expensive) and have something that will break everybodys neck.

ISo your saying she used to ride MX then she switched over to drag racing? You cannot ride on an MX Track with a 12" extended swingarm plus that sounds like its way to long with pro circut pipes. Theya are an all around pipe not a drag pipe plus the stock carbs with the Toomey 2:1 filter in an airbox there is no reason this bike needs a 12 over swingarm even if you have a full drag port. Are you sure its not a +2 extended swingarm? If she was useing 112 octane there must be some very small domes in that coolhead bumping up the compression that high. You need to buy a compression tester from autozone or somewhere like that (Spark plugs at Autozone are 1.79 a piece as well you need to use B8ES OR BR8ES Use the search for witch one to use) (Also never go to the dealership for parts they will charge you p the ass check out the sponcers on this site Rockymountainatv.com is also a good fair priced internet shop) use the 14mm adaptor screw it in the coolhead 1 side at a time hold the throttle wide open and kick untill it stops reading. Do one side at a time youll see. Like stated 155 and above calls for at least a 25/75 110/93 octane 165-180 and higher psi calls for straight race fuel. 32:1 is a good mixture I would use either Yamalube 2-R Castor 927 Or Klotz 2 cycle oil. Yes you have to use the clutch everytime you shift. You can speed shift by not letting off the throttle pulling in the clutch and shifting. I personaly run the front fenders for reasons you listed but you dont have too its not gonna kill you youll just get mudyer. You can put the stock swingarm back on and try it out you should be alrite from the way it sounds like the bike is setup then sell the +12. Also sell the slicks and get some Kenda Knarlys or a Razr tire set for dirt riding. I change my coolant every 3 months. I use the Maxima 50/50 blend another great coolant is Engine Ice for the warmer weather you really shouldnt run that stuff in the dead of winter cause it has a 33 degree freezing point, water wetter mixed with distiled water is fantastic also. Trans/clutch oil I use Motorex 10w30, Yamalube 4 or BelRay gearsaver are also good products. I stick with 10w30 some guys use heavier like 10w85 its all about prefrence and it takes 1.5 quarts to fill it after a change. I change mine after every ten rides. Covers your questions. Welcome to the HQ and the SEARCH BUTTON will really help you out. Be sure to use it.

Even if you port it with those pipes on then try to ride it on the trails your power will be everywhere you dont need it to be. CPIs are drag pipes. You should trade for some Pro circuts DMC Alien PT mids TR6s or something along those lines for your style of riding.

Oh I plan on putting up a full ride report on the LSR Racing arms to the Elka elites and linkage The -3 and the 2:1 carb setup and +4 timing advance all at once. Its gonna be the shit. I bought it from a guy on ebay and his description was a -2 Laegers. Well its definatly a Laegers but its a -3. Cody Buchanan told me the bike is sitting real nice and it should work out great. Now I know its not gonna stand up on me when I dont want it to in the straights cause of how I ride more twoards the center of the bike and not on the gas tank like I see alot of other banshee guys doing (Im also 6" 300lbs so that may have something to do with it) its the corners and the hard rutted out sections Im worried about going fast through without having those elites dialed in and the -3 being to short so its gonna take alot of practice but I went with Hollister Hitmans advice and Im sticking with it. Hes getting a stock swingarm cut -4 soon. Hes riding on a -2 now. Im so damn excited Im going up tomorow to check it out mabey through some jets in and see where Im at but I cant ride it untill I get my airbox adaptor plate from trinity. Will be here on monday I should have had it overnighted. Ha I cant wait man.

Rite start out fat with everything, you will know imeditaly what piolet area you need to be in then what main and you can screw around with the needel to be perfect. Thats exactly what Im going to be doing, Im going up tomorow to bad my Adaptor plate wont be in from trinity till monday (I ordered to late in the week my fault) so I dont get to test out my new bike but all good things to those who wait and all that shit

Buying new is nice and its nice to build the bike to your exact specs because with a used worked banshee chances are you will want to make a bunch of changes anyway. As far as the dune port just tell the builder of your choice exactly what you looking for and since your already running the VP110 may as well get smaller domes 18cc and advance your timing to at least +4 for more lowend. Make sure to get your crank welded though.

I dont think the dual rate setup would help for the rear shock it being so short. I think the rear progresive spring will work just fine given you have the rite spring rate setup.

What brand of A Arms do you have. Im guessing you mean +2+1 I have heard roll design made +2+2 but that could be a myth. The shocks will work fine they are designed to be 1" longer

Thanks for the props and I hope your enjoying but Im not doing that anymore. At least for a while it really got out of hand with work and orders. Hopefully in the future I can get that going again though. I just got the Elka elites with the rear linkage setup I put it on a -3 laegers swingarm and Ill be testing it out next weekend. You really cant go wrong with that setup the rear shock on the Banshee is so short the linkage really helps out with clearence and bottoming out. Pretty expensive but you definatly get what you pay for and them some with that setup. Its a good idea.