Washburn

Dont go to a shop to tune your banshee they will charge you out the ass for something you can do for 6 bucks an a half hour yourself by getting your jetting dialed in witch is easy as hell to do. Just find out what jets you have in there and ask around here where you should be. As far as the Banshee not being good for trails is a cop out for someone who cant ride a 2 stroke. And saying they dont or arent capable of making awsome torque in the lower RPMS To about 6000RPMs is because you are talking to a builder who only knows how to take out material and make a dune/drag Banshee. Talk to someone who knows how to build a good trail motor Jim at Passions racing for example. He will laugh at you if you think Banshess are only good for reving to the moon and Detuning it for raw torque. A broad motor can be built and CPIs can be a good trail pipe since they sign on so early. 400exs and 450s might be eayser to ride but to me they arent as fun and if you know how to shift and clutch you can leave any 4 stroke in the dust. I chose to build my Banshee with all of the great suspension and handeling components because thats what I choose to ride and I wont trade for any 4 stroke. Ive been offered too many trades where I would actualy come out on top but the hell with that I choose to ride a twin cyl 2 stroke. Dave I like you man, and you know your shit, Im not knocking you Im simply stating what I know and I KNOW its all about the rider on the bike not the bike you are riding.

Dual rate, Your exactly rite the length of the shocks the Banshee requires is to short for a tripple rate spring setup to be effective at all. There is the option of getting long travle A ARms and LT Shocks for the Banshee and that would require a quad rate spring but I think standered travle is the way to go for the front end and Elkas new LT Linkage and shock in the rear. I love Axis shocks too man. I was going to buy them but figured the LT Rear end package Elka is offering is key for me plus I always liked the way Elkas ride when setup rite but yeah, you cant ever go wrong with Custom Axis shocks. Also Im not Knocking Works shocks. They are a long time company made in USA That has been helping out ATVs in the handeling department longer than any other. I just feel from personal expirence if you want the best and have the money get what feels rite to you or take Racers words for what the best is. If you dont have the option of testing shocks out for yourself. Dont listen to companys selling the products cause they will recomend whatever makes them the most coin (USUALY) Take the guys who have actualy been there and tested them out in conditions your planing on riding under.

My guy has them in his shop and Im going up on thursday or friday 12.00 shipped if you dont come across one by that time call me 412-951-0752 ask for Neil

What I was saying is the needle that came in the carb did me rite and Im not planing on changing it with the nice read on my plugs. I planed on changing the jetting to 185 main and a 52 piolet then change needles if I came across any problems but everything in there worked perfectly for me. However I did get the carb off a guy who ran a K&N and I had to grind the lip off the bell of the carb that held the K&N in place for it to fit the airbox adaptor plate.

For me the +2+1s are dead on perfect where I ride an inch on each side makes that big of a diffrence. For example I was riding with some Pro class CC Racers last sunday and the hillshoots we were doing had huge rocks on either side and if I would have been two inches wider I would have got hung up bigtime. Also in tight technical wooded areas alot like GNCC, is only a few inches wider than the bikes and those couple of inches really do make a diffrence. Now if your planing on MX Ide have to say the +3+1s would be the smarter choice. Same for motocross IMO. Also IMHO I would never think of buying a 625.00 set of Works shocks when you can save up 200 more and get Elkas, PEP Limited Mass are liike 700, Custom Axis (Most expensive along with Motowoz) TCS. Works are really stiff in every case Ive ever rode on them and they dont feel as good through whoops sections of any kind. This is from my own personal expirence and word from other seasoned racers with Works shocks compared to the others. Like I said you get what you pay for. Plus there is a company selling Elkas on Ebay cheap. 360.00 for non adjustable no PB/RR as the adjustments go up so do the prices but they are rite. + Looks like they went up to 410.00 this is a pretty good buy though. I might know a guy who will let them go for a little cheaper Im not sure though. A phone call never hurts http://j-hracing.com/ http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Elka-Front-...sspagenameZWDVW I think its around 945.00 for Comp/Rebound Elkas If you have any suspension questions or need someone to rebuild/upgrade your shocks go here http://www.gtthunder.com/SuspensionHome.htm

for 1500 I would look into some Racing +2+1s for GNCC +3 is to wide then some Elkas you can always send them back to Elka and have them put more adjustments in for you. I went with the Piggybacks because of the convience of adjustments and look RRs you have to mount yourself. Then I would look into a GPR Steering Stabilizer an anti vibe stem is nice and if you want one you will have to shell out because you cant get a stabilizer to fit both stock and aftermarket but GPR or Scotts stabilizers will help more than any stem or Bars. First Tires of course. Maxxis Razr or Razr 2s, Holeshots, Kenda, all good choices LSR Racing A Arms- 680-700 add 50-75 for SS Breaklines ASR Are cheaper but I cant recomend them since Ive never seen anyone run them but you can ask around here seems like alot of people like them. Whatever you do make sure the A Arms you buy are full 4130 Chromoly and get the adjustable ones. More expensive but those adjustments come in handy. Elka PB Comp adj- 850 or so then you can add on. Or save up for Comp/Rebound or even Elite$$$$ I just stuck with stock and saved up for my Elites. Good move would be getting those YFZ shocks for 100 to hold you over then sell them for when you get enough money for good suspension. Elka(My choice) Custom Axis, PEP ZPS, TCS All proven and all are great upgrades. Then worry about your rear end setup. -1 -2 swingarm. good choices a good rear shock or a revalved stocker but remember YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Plain and simple. If you want to compete you need to spend. Then if you want motor work and diffrent pipes down the line you can do that but thats the last thing you need to think about.

Front Break calipers w/ stock break lines break pads pretty worn- 50 shipped In package brand new JT 40th Rear Sprocket Carbon Steel- 18 shipped Stock Carbs w TORS and all fuel lines- 40 shipped good shape 34 Mikuni flatslide carb needs bowl and floats- 40 shipped 4 stock reed cages with stock reed petals- 8 bucks each shipped Ill get pics as soon as I get AA Bateries for the digi cam 100% positive feedback on here Thousands in sales new and used parts

Yes, But if you say your running good now and your center electrode looks good I wouldnt even bother untill it starts geetting colder. Then go up around 2 sizes on the main.

Works no not at all. Elka Custom Axis PEP ZPS TCS all good choices. I went with Elka because of the wide range of adjustability and LT Rear end setup. Ive rode them all and I was always fond of Axis and Elka. Elka does tend to valve them a little soft out of the box and thats the main reason people dislike them but if you specify you level of skill they wont make them as soft.

Yeah Im still a little unsure there. The guy that put it on said he couldent get it to not rub but Elka said to me today it will work with the stock swingarm so Ill have to wait till I go up next time and try bolting it on to the stocker and go from there.

Im at around 1800ft and Im running a 190 main and a 48 piolet stock needel I think. Its dead on. I run it with the airbox lid on.

Definatly a great upgrade. With the Trinity 2:1 carb I noticed instant power much snappier and an increase in both bottom and topend over stock carbs. I think the 2:1 system is the best thing you can do for woods/pit riding. Dunes and drag Ide run 2.

Your money baby isent he money dude your so money and you dont even know it. I love that film.

-3 Lonestar swingarm carrier on order. I might be selling it.

Well I got the -3 at a good buy and figured Ide try it. Cody and Charlie and all of the pro racers up there are saying Im gonna be kissing the sky with it but Ide still like to try it out and make judgement from there -2 -1 we shall see. The linkage with the stock shock will work but Cody ordered the wrong Carrier for my -3 it said 1 size fits all, but that obviously wasent the case. So Im gonna wait for the rite carrier to come in bolt up the linkage and stock shock and see how short it is for me. Problem with the Elka linkage is they have been having problems fitting it and their shock on any swingarm unless the swingarm is cut rite behind the pivot bolt and opened up in the box of the swingarm. I dont want to do that because if I dont like the -3 Ill be SOL when I go to sell it. The linkage and Elka shock wont work on my stock swingarm either. Same problem shock rubs too much. And I dont have the 700 dollars for a swingarm that will fix the problem. But the front Elkas and LSR Arms are phenominal. Elkas are a little soft, I got the pro rider setup but Im sure I can crank the compression/hi/low compression and mess with the rebound and get it all set. Mabey new main springs. I cant wait to get my rear end setup. Looks like Ill be riding with some big name racers all yfz450rs next time I go up and I cant afford to be bottoming out in the rear. Ill definatly get pics up next time though. It looks so badass and handles even better.

haha, wow, I gotta say Don I have never seen someone switch bikes so often and in such a short span of time all while modding the shit out of them and only riding them a few times. You had a killer Banshee and the 450 you have is probably nicer than the SHEE. 4500 is very reasonable with all of the mods you have done to it. What are your plans now? Put more money into your car? Get a 4x4 ATV?

I dont have any pics or vids yet but Ill get some when I get my helmet cam. All of the new mods I put on surpassed my expectations. With the LSR Racing a arms +2+1 (Perfect width) and the adjustable Elkas the Banshee actualy grips and positions itself around corners. No more bars flying out of my hands on the rough rocks ruts and roots we in PA are famous for. Climbing rough choppy hills are a breeze. The added Power of the 2:1 carb setup is also perfect for me. Instantly hitting the powerband great on lowend and top and the +4 timing advance changed the power from stock banshee power to a much more broad powerfull engine. Only thing that majorly sucks is my Rear LT Elka setup with the new Linkage wont fit my -3 or my stock swingarm. The shock fitted on the linkage is to wide and ends up rubbing on the swingarms enough that I would bend the shaft of the shock if I tried riding it. Im back to a stock rear end that bottoms out on rocks roots and ruts. If anyone has a cheap solution to this please let me know because Im not about to dump 700 on a modified swingarm that will fit the linkage and shock.

Well I found out I actualy have a Lonestar -3 swingarm not a Laegers (Elka seen pictures and correct me on the brand of swingarm) and the Pro dual linkage and rear Elka shock will not fit without modifications to the swingarm. I called Lonestar and they said they and Elka just found out about this problem with Elkas linkage and an Elka rear shock rubbing against the swingarm. Im assuming its just for the - swingarms cause the longer swingarms will have more room in there but mabey not Ill have to check next time I talk to Cody. So I talked to Cody and what needs to be done is the inside of the swingarm needs cut like 4 inches and 1 inch deep and replaced with something so the linkage will fit and the rear shock wont rub. I can however run the linkage and my stock shock so I do get to ride this weekend and determin weather or not I want to keep the swingarm that short. I posted this new topic because it relates to anyone with a Lonestar or Laegers (I think) swingarm and wants the Elka LT Linkage setup.

liftdT4R

NE is not one of my favorite teams either but you gotta admit they are the best franchise in pro football today. Besides Brady being a spoiled prick and burski annoying the piss out of me they are solid and if they dont make any mistakes they will win against Indy so Im going to have to Pick NE. WAS @ NYJ Redskins SF @ ATL 49ers ARI @ TB Cards GB @ KC Packers CIN @ BUF Bungels SD @ MIN Chargers DEN @ DET Broncos CAR @ TEN Titty JAC @ NO NEW ORLEANS IS A DYING WHORE (NOLA WINS) SEA @ CLE Hawks HOU @ OAK Tex NE @ IND PATS DAL @ PHI Coyboy baaaaaaaaby MNF BAL @ PIT STEELERSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS Screw last year its payback time!!!!!!!!!!!

Hell yes. Now you could save up later and get the stem if you want a rise and a little anti vibe protection but the smart move for hard riding is the steering stabilizer. Believe me I ride hard and I know what works best! I might not be an expert on porting motors (mabey that will change) and Im no expert on the internals of suspension (Hopefully that will change too) But I do know what works and any other pro rider or hard rec rider will agree. Trust me. Im gonna talk to my guy today at about 10:00 10:30 anyway, I was looking at the Scotts witch is a killer and race proven stabilizer but the one he has on his bike has 8 adjustments on the fly and its only 350.00 for me. Ill ask what brand it is and Ill see if I can send you somewhere where they sell them for a good price. Cant say the Scotts is out of the question for me yet either though but Ill let you know.

Ide definatly like to see Borich take it all. Next year looks very promising for him though thats for sure. Im sure he will get more support and not have to worry about blowing parts and loseing races cause of it. My friend and mechanic Cody Buchanan of Buchanan Racing took 8th overall in the AWRCS Pro series Brandon Sommers took 1st place. All Brandon does is race I wouldent be suprised to see him up on the podium with the Bs in the next few. Next year looks like I will be racing the AWRCS in the Pro AM class. Hope to have the support of my fellow BHQers as I will be on a sick banshee with the help of Cody Buchanan and possibly Jim at Passions Racing (If Cody cant do mine) Im hearing 4 stroke power up to 6000 RPM then Ill take em out with the top end STIIIIIIIING!!!!!!!!!! Hope to be racing in the Pro class in the next 5 years. Get some sponcership going on. Untill then its winning money in unsancioned woods races to keep her on all 4s!!!!!!!!

Thats awsome man. Break him in by taking him on put put rides on the SHEE then get him a little 50. I bet you cant wait. Only thing that would be good is if he takes after his mother in the looks department :biggrin: J/K Bud Also THANK YOU for everything you have done for this Country. Your a good man Greg :thumbsup:

You can get a scotts steering stabilizer to mount to a stock steering stem and that will help you way more than an anti vibe stem no doubt about it. They are around 400+ though.

If you have problems with arm pump and want to drasticly decrease it then its the rite choice. If arm pump is not an issue then yes its overkill. It will help the most if you have an updated front end and suspension system. Look into that before a stem and flexx bars if you dont have them already. I see you do have an updated front end. If you buy the bars and anti vibe stem you really should shell out the extra 350-400 dollars and get a steering stabilizer that adjusts on the fly like a Scotts steering Stabilizer. I would actualy get cheap bars and the stabilizer then get the fast flexx bars just make sure you get the same size bars. It is definatly worth it if you want the best.