Bansh-eman

i'm too lazy to bust them down, i have no use for them so just trying to get rid of them.

God damn French Canadians!

as a matter of fact there is a member on here from Austrailia that i thik has one of them, when i read the name to your post it made me want to send him a pm to see how its holding up for him

use a meter stick, you dont want them to be perfectly even. you want about half in to an in of toe

there are TONS of factors, so there really is no "one" way to setup a bike, rider weight, tire size, swinger length, type of motor work, carbs, pipes, all play thier own parts in determining what gearing to run, plus every track will be differant as well, if its a tighter track your gearing will be differant then a wide open track, and a loose dirt track will be differant then a hard clay track... You best best is goig to be to get a few differant gears and just test them out.

yea

are you talking like little spots or like the whole thing was painted and you want to remove it?

A 21cc dome should give you around 156 according to the NOSS website. I wouldn

what tpye of riding? what elevation? what kinf of gas do you want to run?

its not good practice to run pitted domes or any internals with burs, these tiny parts of metal in the combustion chamber are much more prone to becoming hot spots making your motor either diesel or detonate. Could you run them? Yes, it could just cause more issues then what its worth.

I got a set of Holeshots mounted on some Douglas Red Label wheels, Lots of tread left. 80 plus shipping and paypal fees

mine is set all the way ot to .025, I'm not fuking with those BS ricky stator set screws and having to deal with that shit, it run fine so I'm leaving it. You ca just use a match book cover to set it.

America prevails again! As we are fighting to free other countries around the world, the liberal tree huggers are here fighting to take ours away!

are you talking about the OEM rubber thing or the oring that comes on the pingle?

just pull the ebreak cable and remove it from the caliper, then make sure you disconnect the switch and the lever

there has been many descusions on where they "should" be placed, either way the A/F isnt going into the jugs it has to go the the crank cse first, so the theroy of moving the reeds back to allow more velocity is BS, it wont matter where you put it. jus make sure it seals so you dont lean out the motor and blow it up

actuall it would have been hard to find,,, here what i wrote... for future ref. if your putting a pingle on an ims tank (should also be same for stock) the plastic that seperates the two valves, for the on and reserve positions on your tank... get s razor blade and cut that part straight down... if you messure the gasket it fit a 1/2 inch drill bit perfect. i went one size smaller and use that to clean up the inside of the plastic to smooth out where the razor didnt reach well... took some gas and rinsed out the tank of any loose plastic... now take the pingle base and screw it on the valve... make sure when you seperate the two you leave it facing the right direction of how it will mount on your tank so when you tighten the valve into the base your pingle lines up right... once you decide where it will stop( be sure you dont tighten it much because your going to add thread tape and that will keep it from turning as much once you tighten it down) remove the valve from the base , keeping the base facing the correct direction place the gasket on the tank and screw the base down... now holding the valve with the screen facing you wrap your threads 2-3 time with thread tape clock wise... make ure you dont go off the threads and into the tank as much as you can...smooth out the tape on the threads and tighten the valve down... once you get to where it should aline it should stop just shy of where you hand tightened it before becasue of the thread tape.. grab a rag and wrap your valve.. you can use a wrench or like i did just hands and turn the valve the rest of the way to line it up... fits good and doesnt have much area opened to leak as origanaly thought....

you have to drill it out. do a search i made a post many months ago on how to install it.

it doesnt matter which side, personally i would put them intake side

hey lowbuck you need the inner hub? let me know i'll just go buy a new one if need be they are only like 32 bucks

hell no replace it, bending something critical like that is not a smart thing to do.

yup i run it in mine. same thing as engine ice minus the anti freezing agents. works great. 12 cap fulls per gallon of distilled water

I agree with u monster, a dyno number means jackshit on the track. I raced for many years and we NEVER ONCE dyno'ed a thing, track testing is much more relevant to racing then a dyno will ever produce, however the dyno has it's place in other aspects

yea they arent bad, i like paul turner pipes for that riding my self