Bansh-eman

you may have to change one or two sizes . just keep in mind plug chops are your friend.

spacers are only good to move aftermarket carbs up and over the clutch arm.

yea iv got a pretty bitchin computer it might just be the version i have

yea i have adobe premier and i couldnt get it to work for shit. I would clip the video and when i would dub in sound it would fuckup my video. that is supposed to be a badass program to use for editing but i had no luck with it

Snop did a dyno test and got a whole wopping .25 hp so i'd stick with using them to clear the clutch actuator

thats what the FAST clutch is, just more surface area so it holds really well

i dont think he has a site up yet, he is a member on here. look him up.

your leaksing head around the stud isnt that big of a deal, you can put some RTV on the stud and nut and it will seal it off. but i guess you already ordered the new orings so never mind

they are not wiesco

you can try using PVC end caps rather then rubber plugs. when you squeez soft material against another soft material they dont normally hold well, but the pvc is just like clamping your carbs in there. for the crank seal it should not leak. you DONT have to have your clutch cover on to do a leakdown test. infact you shouldnt have it on so you can see if the seals are leaking

boreing a small motor for performance gains is stupid, the power vs the life lost of the motor isnt a good trade off, there are tons of other things you can do to a motor to get better gains then boring it that far over. get your self a adjustable timing plate and advance the timing, or for the biggest bang save a little more money and get your self a port job for your style of riding. also might try to swap out those pipes if you get that baby ported, T-6 dont respond as well to porting as many other low to mid pipes

what kind of riding? any specific reason you want to do a single carb? also keep in mind you dont want to sink alot of money into a set of jugs that are 66mm becasue your not going to get much life out of them. you would be better to bu some used jugs that are closer to stock bore and port them instead

one of your crank seals probly

no for an mx bike you want the extra wieght on the flywheel and the "wormholes" are more of a drag porting. Good pipes to match the port work, and some carbs and intake as well. get a coolhead or shave the stocker, maybe do a 4mil crank unless you cant have a stroker in races, more then anything you need a good suspension!

your compression will determine what octane to run, but there is nothing special about the cub that it needs a differant oil. I run Yamalube 2R 36:1

depending on what software you used you can categorize them by folders for like electrical, topend, bottom end, blah, blah, blah, then in each folder have the topics inside.

hey tate, didi you set it up by chapters so you can select which part you want to view without having to do the whole fast forward thing?

if i was to redo it again i would not have paid for the hinson and just got a Magnum

sry i donthave my ims tank any more to messure it. you can get a kit from ims but they are like 25 bucks or some bullshit

sry broyour going to need ALOT more then 2500 to buy my bike

From a running 2000. 50 shipped to the lower 48 states. paypal [email protected]

the metqal tabs should be screwed into the tank then they just lay over to where the 2 screws that bolt to the metal bracket near the rad cover is at

get a timing plate and do it right. the keys are garbage and tend to sheer off.

I would love to sell mine and fall into this category

they should be the same plates that are in a R6 and the old FZR1000