DunePirate

I followed the sequence, and I was thinking that but I will just take the sealer with me and if there is a problem I will worry about it then... But yes, I'm going to get it nice and warm and retorque them again..

I picked up some thread sealer today, I'm going to throw some of that on the threads.

no cool head, just a stocker... I'm going to order 1 but Im going to wait until after turkey day. All the $$$ is going twards the 10 day Glamis trip I getting ready for.

Thats what we were thinking, just take off 1 at a time, put loc-tite on then and re torque it... Unless you guys have a better solution. Looking for the right way to do this. Every oppinion/suggestion is helpfull

I got the motor rebuilt now and it runs great, but... I have coolant leaking from the bolts in the center of the head (1-4) I tightened everything to spec 20ft.lbs and started it (this is when I noticed the leak) I then retorqued everything, and it has stopped... The coolant was coming up the center of the nut like between the nut and the threads of the stud... I however, am still concerned that it was leaking in the first place. :ermm: There is nothing but oil in the cylinders, and everything works great but, 1. Did I do something wrong ? 2. Are the bolts supposed to be retorqued right after start up ? ( I can see after like an hour but, immediately following start up as well ) I guess what I'm asking is, are you supposed to put anything on the threads, some sort of loc tite or something ? How should I go about fixing this problem ( it has stopped, but I want to make sure it doesn't start up again )

damn it.... I can't get the darn puller until tomorrow. I think in the mean time Im going to rinse it with gas, then carb cleaner then gas again... If it is smoothe, I might just put it back together..

Allright... going to get a flywheel puller, be back shortly. Hope you guys have some more insight into this subject...

I know..... I was thinking that, but I don't want to split the case if I don't have to... It's not the work, it's the "I can EFF something up" factor that has stopped me so far. I would hate to kill something internally just because I have doubt. I rebuilt my first top end at age 11, it was so simple.. I have done clutches, again no problem.. but Im worried about all the kick gears, the shift star, small little pieces that the manual says need to be removed when splitting the case. It doesn't make a great deal of sence to remove all of that when you are not taking everything out of the case (going to leave the trans in) I have been looking for someone to tell me what actually has to be removed. I'm scared... :ermm:

I have been talking with ClimbAnyHill all day, he suggested this alternative.. Use: Shop Vac Small plastic Coke bottle small hose like the overflow ones on the carb. Carb Cleaner. Cut the backend of the bottle and tape it to the shop vac. Cut a hole in the bottle cap and instert the small hose.. Wash down & flood the crank/crank case area with that carb cleaner.. The debris will fall to the bottom.. Keep that small hose in there like the dentist to suck all that junk out. I've gone thru 2 cans of cleaner doing this and has worked great without any prob..

So in your honest and professional oppinion, you do not think it needs to be split ? Why with the premix ? The trans is completely sealed on this motor isn't it ? The oil is seperate from the crank, so I do not have to worry about contaminateing the trans with the shavings.. Right ?

the wrist pin is clean as are the bearings, and the rings were intact... Their was some piston melted to the top of the rod but only a very small piece, no other discoloration so to speak of... Everyone has said that it is the rings, bearings, and the other "hard metals" like steel that will kill the bottom end not piston shavings. The exhaust had a few piston flakes in it, and the reed cage was covered but aside from that, only really small flakes sitting on the part of the crank that rolls... Should I do the gas thing ? should I not split the case at all ?

I run a +4 and love it... but suspension is a major factor, Im a BIG guy 6'3" and 300 pounds, I put the YFZ shocks on the front and just tightened the rear up... well it bounces a bit and the front feels real nice when duning/dragging but when you are shootin Olds it bottoms in the rear making the feedback in the front kinda $hitty and not to mention a lil bit hard to put the power to the ground. Just keep that in mind. But I prefer the +4

you guys are a big help... this is all very good input. I will be splitting the case tomorrow I'm replacing the crank seals, and cleaning everything thoroughly, after I get it back together I'm going to hose everything down with starter fluid to find the leak. I will replace anything that needs it. What I need now is a play by play of what needs to be done in order. I have the factory repair manual but I like taking advise from people that have done it and have the first hand experience. Any little tricks that will make this process easier ? What HAS TO BE removed for the cases to be split ? Again, thank you guys..

everyone is telling me it was from the blown head gasket or an air leak... It makes sence, I was low on coolant. but no one thinks it was the 87octane gas in there ? or did it just not help.

I was afraid I would have to take a bunch of junk apart... How hard is this going to be ? Is their anything I can ROYALLY EFF UP ? I'm kinda worried about removeing the stater and other electrical components, what if it dies