Bansh-eman

RPM Dominator hands down. Price and quality cant be matched.

No joke! Just when all is nice and quite.

My bike doesnt like to start cold on alky. Do like NYUK said and swap the plugs, when you purged the motor did you let it suck all the gas out of the bowls or did you kill it? Be carful trying to start it on gas. Mine was so rish that it started to fill the crank case and I had to siphon the gas out.

Agreed. If it backedout because "rough handling" think of what it will do at 9k rpm. Just my .02

The chains used on atv's are not designed to be reused once they have been punched. The pins are mushroomed to keep from backing out and once you punch them they lose the tip that hold them in. they do make tools for the chain breaks that will allow you to re-mushroom the tips however the links are not as strong as before. Because these chains are holding a lot more power then say a go-kart it isn

For gas run the BR8ES. You can get them for like 2 bucks each at pepboys, autozone, ect. dont get them at the dealership, they rip your shit off for them. For the gap i want to say its like .023 but I could be wrong. depending on what mods you have is going to depend what jetting but you should be around the middle clip, 310 main, 27.5 pilot, air screw 2.5 turns for a bike with aftermarket pips and the airbox lid off. it might be a little off but it will get you very close.

ok let me get this straight... you put it in any gear and it does roll or it does not? From what I gathered it sounds like it just sits there when in any gear... is that correct? When you pull the clutch lever is there any pressure on it?

I haven't every seen the plates weld together. Normally when your bike creeps like your saying its because the clutch is out of adjustment. As for a good clutch for 100hp motors, Grab fibers from a FZR1000 and stock steels. The lockup isnt a bad idea either, just keep in mnd with the lockup your going to want a override more then likely.

I think the two wires your thinking of is to remove the key. there isn't any wires that have to be tapped when removing the e-brake.

did the carbs sell? what size if not? billet bowls? What kind of PJ's installed? Setup for pump or gravity? Post up some picts and prices so there arnt so many questions. There is a link at the top of the for sale forums thats pinned on how to post picts.

the intake isnt going to give you any extra power. They are used to move larger carbs up and over the clutch actuator, and to get rid of the cross over tube. I tried to get on Trinity's webste to see what it cost but it wouldnt load. If it cost over 125 bucks look around. There are tons of billet intakes to be had for that or less and they all do the same thing. It's not like one cars where the intakes make a power differance.

make sure you remove the controller going to the TORS. I would also recommend removing the TORS if you havent done so already. Pull the e-brake cable and all the crap on the rear caliper. Grab a blockoff plate from ebay and you should be good.

Renthal, Sidewinder (pricey), ect... Pretty much any steel sprockets. Stay away from aluminum.

how long has it been since you have repacked your silencers. If they are soaked it can cause extra smoking. I ran Yamalube before I changed to alky. I had no issues with it at all. Burned clean and was easy to get. I ran it 36:1 , 24:1 is pretty rich.

14 front 41 rear

not true. it is like all the other quality oils. Only way your crank is going to rust is because you have moisture (aka water) in your lower end. This occurs if you do not purge alky over time, but it has nothing to do with the oil causing it. There is only one thing that causes oxidation, thats moisture on bare metal.

Redline makes great oils. My brother and I used to be sponsered by Redline many years ago when we raced Go-Karts. They made an oil for 4 strokes that smelled like bubblegum.... yummmmm... I use Klotz Supertech now. 32:1 with alky

Rechroming used pipes will cost a little more. Not all platers will do them. Send BK_Banshee a pm on here. He did alot of chroming for me. His stuff is TOP notch!!!

I would suggest against this. Those orings are not rated for high temp or for petrol resistance. Go to the McMaster website and order some that will meet both those requirements and you will be fine. You run the chance that the oring spins in the bearing race, you also run a higher chance of a crank side leak.

I'm pretty sure Austin wouldn't mind that 52 year old tranny you got locked up in your closet with the lazy eye and only 9 toes, but I think these guys are looking for a transmission to get the bike rolling Chad.

Look at getting your self a RPM Dominator. They are great axles. I got a brand new Lone Star locknut off ebay. I got it for like half the price they retail for.

depending on how far it's sticking out, it is either a long rod crank or a stroker or both. Its a simple fix for any of them, it's just going to cost you more $$$. Just need to know what crank it is so you get the correct pistons and have the head machined right.

nope. I dont dune though. Before I switched to a full blown drag bike I attempted to set it up for partial duning but that change very fast after I almost got bucked off. I only got one good weekend out of it before I totally rebuilt the bike. I didnt get it tuned in after I switched to a full blown drag bike, but I wouldnt need 6th either way.

i got a WCR duneable 1-5 neut down and love it. No more mis-shifts going from 1st to 2nd. and neut is super easy to find.

I disagree, Stock carbs are old and outdated, even for stock porting and aftermarket pipes. There are better options. However if your looking at improving your power carbs alone are not going to elp much. You should look into port work, and pipes first.