Bansh-eman

Ahh man, the Old Corps! Thanks for fucking that up General Krulak

Well then old timer, if your statement is true, then you know first hand your wrong.

I guess you haven't been doing this long. In this sport about 95% of the time you DO get what you paid for.

This is a pretty simple solution! Too bad I tried to save a little money using Boss back in the day. Lessons learned I guess.

Beau, I am going to talk to the old lady tonight, you mind holding them for me for a day? I want these carbs with the bowls!!!

Doesn't Kevin get his tranny from WCR???

Your not over torquing them are you?

2 strokes on't use motor oil.... for the tranny use ATF type F 1500cc, if you use lockup use 2 quarts, for premix use 32:1 mixture of your choice of premium premix I like Yamalube ofr gas, coolant use either Engine Ice or Redline Water Wetter and distilled water. If you live where it freezes use Engine Ice.

When I ran Gearsaver I changed my oil after about 3 or 4 trips.

You don't want to do this. They paint the vin's on and very very VERY lightly stamp them. the wheel will remove the whole thing.

Agreed. I have ran Pro Design, Noss, and now Chariot. Only got rid of the Nos to try the Chariot. The one thing that I liked more about the Noss was the Orings seemed to stay in place better once you flip the head over to install it. Other than that they are both great products.

Beat me to it

I use the stock papers and smear a little yamabond on both sides

Just thought I would point out that it hasn't been a decade since you signd up, much less last time you posted..

Which ever you decide, steer clear of BOSS, their products are crap. I have spent money one a few different items trying to save money and had to modify every one of them do to poor manufacturing and QC.

That sounds correct. When I did mine, my range was from .010 to .013 I want to say I went with .012 IIRC

Is the Banshee master and reservior capable of producing the power and fuild capacity needed to support such an application?

I have the same carbs setup on alky for my drag ported cub. I am used to tuning PWK's, the TM's are a little differt to tune. I only got one day to give them a shot and the sand was blowing around, so I didn't want to fuck around with it too much. I will get it figured out once I get home. Pretty much everyone in SoCal use them that we rode with.

Also one more thing I learned the hard way after getting the 8 plate. If your not running a lockup, and have just the stock cover, you need to shave the tips of the nipples off on the inside. Your pressure plate will hit these if not. I used a flat disk on my die grinder and took them down and it was good. Of course that is after my new 8 plate already dragged on it and got metal all in the oil.

Kiel, The stock adjuster and set screw should be long enough. My 8 plate worked fine with it. I was not able to use the arrows. I set my clutch like Shane said. Back the screw out so the pressure plate sits flat. Turn it in until it hits and back it off. Make sure that you are lining the dots on the inner hub and the pressure plate up when you bolt it back together. This can make everything not fit properly, especially if you

Typ deleteing yur temp files and cookies. It should fix it.

Depending on your porting your results may differ but on my cub drag ported by K&T I got 185 psi running 18cc domes at sea level. Not sure if you

If you have some yamabond or equivalent laying around, pull the pingle off file the tank flat like Slo said and use a little of the bond to run a bead and replace it. Also it is common that they leak from the threads, so you might drop a little thread sealant on there as well.

I like the quick disconnects. Very simple to use. Although pricy for what they are, they work great. Just make sure you get the ones that have shutoff valves on both sides, so when you disconnect they dont flow alky all over the place.

Different builders recommend different amounts. K&T says as close to .036 as you can get, my motor is sitting at .042 if I recall correctly.