Bansh-eman

that will do it

between those two silencers, they arnt going to make much of a differance the turbinecore are a little more restrictive becasue of the sparkies.. but your money maker is the actual pipe...

yup the roundd side goes into the groove... tap it down so it doesnt shift as you put on the flywheel ... then your wheel goes on over it and tighten it down...

well if your jeting is off then yes rejet it while you have it apart cleaning them... if its not off then you dont need to rejet but like said above do them one at a time so none of your parts get mixed together

yup this is how 99% of them do it... they have cut ones already dont and they will send you that one after they get your core... then one day someone will get yours after they cut it... once they cut them all th parts are usally zip tied so they dont move around and come undone... then when you get them you cut the zipties and drop them in... lineup the gears and your good...

on breakin run it rich.... i normally run my bike 36:1 , for breakin go like 28:1 - 24:1 when i didnt mine i went WAY too rich and it smoked for a long time until i burnt all the oil off

the ones from alba are just SS wire mesh.. they had hole burnt right through them after one day... but the "stick test" all they are seeing is if the stick goes in and gets stopped by anything or if it can just keep going...

mds if you have done this twice you need to either stop getting pulled with your clucth pulled or invest in a pancake bearing lol :biggrin:

ok so the timing plate is good to have. as you advance your timing your going to get more of that bottom end that banshees lack... i am a true beliver in the dyna cdi ! they are amazing! how ever i dont like the lightened flywheel.. thers mixed emotions on them some love them and some hate them... i run mine stock wieght... also i have a ricky stator 200watt and had no problems what so ever... i got a question for you... is there a reason you replaced the break disks,break lines,and sprokets? those dont exactly wear out very fast .... thats alot of money you could have put else where.. you should look at getting ome v force 3 reeds... makes your motor and much better throttle response...also what pipes are you running? that bike will be fine on a stock swinger... oh and as for the clymers... GET ONE!!! they are a banshee owners bible!!! you can learn to rebuild pretty much anything on that bike with that book... it covers the intire motor , full electrical diagram, breaks, crabs, everyting!

go back to your 13 front and change your gearing from the rear... but as stated above i dont think your gearing is the issue... is your motor stock beside porting and pipes? 10 pad haulers is too much for that motor if thats the case.. your getting too much traction and its diggin into your power

not nessessarily, i have off brand pods... when you hear pods its referring to having filters that bolt right on your carbs... i wouldnt run a foam in the sand for one main reason... foam filters have much larger holes and allow small sand particals to pass through... another good reason is foam filters use the tacky oil and sand sticks to that shit like CRAYZ

well when your jetted right you dont have to change plugs... a set of plugs will last a LONG time is the motor is jetted correctly.. so whats the point of this post?just making a generalized statement? if so goes in general topic forum in the future

are you talking about the seal that connects the pipes to the stingers??? if so you wont have any problems just mihgt have some oil blow out of it...

you can leak from the neutral switch cover but very little comes out when it leaks... if you had a wet spot like said above your probly leaking out of the seal around your front sproket...but weither way id get a replacement neutral switch cover... cascade sells a billet one on there website http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/

i wouldnt run anything on a foam filter... the tacky oil will clog any of it... it should catch aything that comes through already

yes, so whats your question? both bearigs should have a small dowel pin to keep the bearing from spinning.then you should have the c clip halfs for each side as well

i do heat cycles... 20 min at idle then cut it off and let it cool ALL the way down.....do that 3 times then your first tank run it ez but go up and down through all your gears as much as you can... then atfer that ride it like you stole it...

the main thing is the foam ones have bigger holes that will allow small sand particals to get through much ezer then a k&n and also the foam take a tacky oil that sand sticks too like CRAYZ!

it keeps the chain off the swingarms pivot piont so it doesnt make a hole in it the stoke one lets it touch right on the same spot making it rub through and hit your swingarm and put a hole in it..

theres a guy on ebay that sells a over sized rad for pretty cheap... its a knockoff but you might look into noe of those...

its been posted a fe times already thnx though

i dont know where you heard this at... mine took awhle to get in bcause they where on back order... and cpi where abuntant when i was looking for my shearers

an impact driver is a 100% MUST for ANY toolbox!!! it saves the day all the time! for 25 bucks you can get a craftsman and its lifetime

ok so your not taking the whole thing off... yea that phillips screw is a painin the ass some times... a impact driver is always good to have around... when you cant get your clutch covr off tap it a fwe times with the impact driver and waalaa... when you seperate the two halfs like said above be sure not to lose the ball bearing and spring in there..oh and get your self some grese if you dont have any to put bakc on the metal once you put it together

get one thats marked for yamaha... it should be universal for most yamaha bikes...