Bansh-eman

i want to find someone that can do some narley airbrushing but i know ill never get it casue it costs so damn much... i got a badass idea for a "seen" id like to have painted on....

you talking about pre mix or tranny? premix my self and many others run yamalube R2... as far as tranny i love gearsaver 80w

id say the ezest way would be to go to wash 25 and head striaght out... you will come over a small hill and it will be about 1000 meters in front of you

on the little paper that the pistons come with it tells you how to determine ring gap... on a stock bore its .010-.012 so i just went with .011 it will show you how to do the math.... and as far as the ports go the pistons wont match perfectly... as long as they arent to the sides and they are centered then they where cut right..

yup i would have to say that is incorrct... Dajo actually runs his +7 or +9 i cant member and his cdi advances too... the differance is the plate is stactic through the whole rpm band... where the cdi can be programmed to advance large numbers at low rpms to help bottom end and then taper off at higher rpms to help with top end... edit: just thought id post this... GOD DAMN those titties in my sig are DAMN nice!

umm actuallt that shoul dmake your bottom end a little bitter making you get into the powerband sooner... but if your riding trails then you dont have that wieght to carry and the motor tends to bog out...i run mine stock wieght and dont plan on changing it...

they still running the KT100's? i used to race those and the briggs and straton 5hp motors...

its been like a year , the one to the east of vendors you talking about to the left of where you go through the whoops but closer to the road? last time i was out that hill was all uneven not near flat enough to race up...thats a good hill if its flattened out some casue its tall and steep..

i have the craftsman one.... its good... quality like all thier tools... only thign is they didnt put a head to screw it in with a wrench... its a smooth round metal fitting and you have to use plyers or something to get it in there... so the metal gets messedup... i sent sears a question asking about replacing it... i got a number to call and see if they will replace or if they plan on repalcing this tool...

f the boots ill take that bad ass bag of rocksalt!!!!

umm theres 2 hills that most racing goes on at... comp and banshee hill...i used to ride there....

id look at some works shocks over elka... elka are good shocks but your paying mostly for the name... they are way over priced... workd offers shocks that are much nicer to the wallet and are in the same race as elkas are..

ball and pan cake call jeff.... the push rod and arm get oem from a stealership...

i run yamalubr R2 36:1

haha thats so getto they just added another ball... i didnt even know 2 would fit and still adjust out

if you dont plan on porting it get the T6's... if you plan on porting and modding it get th T5's

get a bigger tire and smaller rim an you should be ok... get like 22IN TIRE ON 8 ICH RIMS... dam,n caps lock

what ever it is that your smoking hook a brotha up!! 33pwk are small to what some guys run... if your drag racing then 90% of guys on here including my self run 35 pwk... or larger in some cases... n motion is a great builder but they are a 4 stroke king not a 2 storke

if you dont plan on adding anything, and not porting the motor get T-6's... T-5's are great pipes but responed better to porting...

no stick with the 2's some actually say they work better then 3's... just make sure you loctite the little screwsa in so they dont lossen up and get sucked in and cause some big issues...

bump skiddy bump

oem ones are like 14 bucks each i think or you can get aftermarket billet ones that range from 30-70... its all prefferance..

28PWK's would be good for your setup... if you dont plan on making it a drag motor and getting a bigger crank and opening up your porting then those will do fine... you will notice a big differance in throttle response... also look at getting some v force 3 reeds...

get a light and flash in there... you should see soething blocking it... wire mess or some sort of metal with oles in it ... if you cant see it then pull your can apart and take a look... while its apart drop some new packing in it...

no but you have to take off the clutch cover and your clutch... the ball and rod are behind the adjuster on there and the clutch arm will pop out the top of the case...