herbanshee

I did adjust the clutch as well as I understood it in the clymers. I took clutch cover off, loosened the nut. screwed it in until they are close.........as close as I could get them. About 1/8" clutch side of the case arrow. So I dunno it that is what you are talking about or not? I did not notice grooves in clutch basket so I will redo tomorrow and double check both. So is this slipping or dragging? Any other suggestions?

Hopefully you can be the one to solve this problem....because for the life of me I cant figure this out! OK here it goes. I dont understand the difference between clutch dragging and clutch slipping.....so please let me know which this is. Last year bike felt like clutch was still pulled in while accerating. So friday I installed a new one from Rocky and installed per clymers. The one thing I did not replace was the springs. The kit included HD and was too stiff for me to continiously pull back on. So went riding, and thoughout the ride I would let out the clutch and it wouldnt go till you really gassed it. It felt like the lever was still partially pulled in. I double checked that I had enought slack in the line at the perch. I then adjusted the screw on the assembly itself and turned it clockwise as far as I could until the screw about fell out. I then turned it in a turn or 2 and tightend up the nut. Put it back together, arrows are not %100 aligned...just a little towards the kickstarter side. I topped it off with 1.6 qt of new spectro and still did the SAME THING!!!!@%@#$^@$%^! I have though of it everywhich way I can and still cant figure it out so PLEASE HELP!!!!

Well, both were drained and refilled with honda 50/50 coolant. This is really our first time out with them since the rebuild. Its not constant but it will drip after tearing it up for about a minute or two after we stop. Im just wondering if I could put a "T" in my overflow line and run it back to the res.? I dont know why it would be getting too hot though. And why both of them would be doing the same thing. Thats why Im thinking there was just too much in the res. Ill try taking it out again with only a little bit in the bottom.....just be low the low level and see if that does it. So pretty much paint on pipes is trashed...........can you powdercoat pipes?? How does it stand up with the heat??

From what Ive read while searching posts its not good to ride if you spilling coolant. It means theres a larger problem at had and that if I keep riding like that could do some real damage. Its not just a drip or two. Its a drip, drip, drip, drip.......Bikes were filled between low and full, if that helps

If its not one thing its another. Took both bikes to silver lake on memorial day and both are dumping coolant. I cant tell if its coming out of the overflow tube but it spilled onto pipes f**** up my new paint job......so that sucks. So how is it BOTH bikes have the same issue. Bike #1 was bored, new topend, carb rebuild kit (with the same jets it had in in) and thats it. Bike is stock. Bike #2 has run strong since I purchased, and we just took it down to the frame and restored it. Motor has not even been apart! So that being said any ideas as to why they BOTH are doing the same thing? The only thing I can think of is when we restored them both, I touched up the paint on the radiator and maybe its too thick? I washed it down, straightened out fins and put a couple coats of high temp paint on. I can see thru the fins better now than when I bought it. Im completely stumped!!! so HELP!!!!.........PLEASE!! Coolant filled to the full line on overflow

Those are not the same ones that I have. Mine are Pro Circuit PC-007-R Is whats stamped on them. I guess I wasnt aware that not all spark arrestor have screens. Acually mine has what you are talking about with the turbine, looking like a jet motor. Im not sure what the stock ones are stamped with Ill check.

I looked at some past posts including the ones that showed how to make your own, the ones from Alba and the one using Stihl part. So heres the issue: I have Pro Cicuit Platnium Pipes with Pro Circuit Forestry Approved Spark arrestors for my silencer. The kid I bought it from said the silencer was missing the screens. at the very end of the pipe most people have allen heads or screws to take the end piece off.....my have rivets so Im not sure how he got the screens off with the rivets still on there. I can take a screw driver and put it in about 3-3.5 inches then it hits this cone/cylinder thing. Im just wondering do these pipes even have screens or are they a different design since they are in themselves spark arrestors? If they do need a screen I dont know where it SHOULD go to pass. Im thinking I would have to drill the rivets out and put it there on the very end........but Im not sure. Also, hubbys stock exhaust doesnt have any screens. I popped the end of his off and .......no screen......so Im not sure if they even came with one. Please help this is the first time taking them out and want to have a great time. Thanks in advance!

Right this is really a two part question. First, on my bike, feels like the clutch is dragging. So when I let the lever out and give it throttle......feels like its partially engaged (not much though), then once I get going it doesnt feel like its draggin anymore. I changed oil already.....no help, a nickle of play at the lever. Im wondering if I should take the cover off and adjust the rod? What do ya'all think? Second issue is on our other banshee. Clutch works great, guy we bought it from said it was new with HD springs. But when your shifting its a bid difficult to run through the gears. Im guessing its not the clutch but possible transmission issues?? Opinions please Thanks! Audrey

Im not a banshee guru by any means so take this with a grain of salt. I had my local mechanic tell me that a 4 point seizure is due to lack of fuel or the bike leaning out. I had a skidoo that just up and quite when the guy was riding it. After taking jugs apart it showed the 4 point seizure and thats what the mechanic told me. Sure enough, pulled carbs off and they were clogged.

I know I had a few offers last time I posted this, so Im hoping one of you guys may still have them laying around. Would like to stay under $250 for set. Please let me know what you have.

Ok so I heard TORS was a pain in the ass and that you can eliminate by the TORS kit. Well, I ran across a guy who had tons of parts laying around and saw throttle cable with just the tops so I bought them for $5........thinking thats better than $50. So I put new cable with tops on and now Im having carb problems. Is there some type of screw you have to tap into the carb body with to make these functional? Stupid question I know, but its eating at me.

I double checked a few things and the tube between the two is connected and yes the slides were in backwards. I swapped them around and its much better still a little FFAAHH from idle to 1/4 throttle. Also sounds like one side is running better than the other, hopefully it will be better after carb sync.

I back in the search for a pair of pipes to surprise my hubby with. I REALLY need to get this project going since Silver Lake is right around the corner and his bike is bone stock and .........slow. Anyway, its ok if crome is fading or there is some rust, since Im going to sandblast and paint. They just CANNOT have big dents. Please let me know what you have and if silencers have screens to pass DNR. Please post price in post with shipping 49337. Thanks!!!!! Audrey

So, I bought this 98 banshee that was in very rough looking condition. The thing screamed but looked like hell. I decided that I wanted to strip it to the frame and give it a restoration (I will post pics later). I think the bike turned out pretty bitchin if you ask me:) Anyway, I did nothing with the actual motor itself since it didnt need anything, so I just changed the oil. I did decide to give the carbs a good cleaning (glad I did since most of the jets were clogged). Anyway, before I touched it, it had excellent crisp throttle response, and outstanding power throuout throttle. I didnt change any jets or anything! The only thing that changed was I got some used tops for my carbs to eliminate TORS. I did just swap out slide with needle, but I double checked the needle position (set in the middle), checked needle size, checked stamps on the slide and they all match up. So now when I start it (it was 45-55 degrees out) I dont even have to choke it, but I do have to throttle it to get it to start. I think it seems waayyy too rich but Im no expert in carb jetting. The throttle response sucks if you fan throttle it give you what I like to call, a FFFAAAHHH......hope that makes since. And response is very delayed, and super super smokey so Im thinnking waaayy too rich. It just sucks since we have been walking around the dunes for 6 FRICKIN YEARS!! Saving up cash to buy some shhees and finally we bough some. So Im SSSOOO excited to go riding and my now beautiful bike runs like hell..........I was so Pissed I tried reading some old threads but I can only find idle/air screw to adjust and right now they are 2 full turns out (bike is stock with pro circut pipes). I have the carb sync tool but have to figure out how to use it. I really think its a carb issue but I dont know what make it leaner/richer. So, the positive thing..................Im very teachable, and I have a mechanical background but I just suck with carbs. I change out a transmission but I cant adjust my own carbs.....................help!!

Thanks all for your posts! Just for clarification Im needing the resivior/master cylinder on the handle bars that holds the brake lever. Sorry, guess I shouldnt have posted at 6am when I havent had my coffee yet