Bansh-eman

holy jesus not again

I have my stock coil from my 200 that I am replacing this year with a Nology. Ill sell it shipped for 45.

well i know for a fact that the dyno will show thier statement to be false. on a 421 cub changing from 35 pwk to 39 pwk with no other changes the dyno has shown up to 6 hp differance. so if the limiting factor was the reeds this power increase would have not happened. although reeds are the "choking point" of the intake. companies have found ways to get better flow. like the vf3 reeds. yes the open less then stockers or other brands, how ever they have double the amount of reed surface. allowing better flow.

like the guy above said there are only one per. same thing as on the crank. try to make them lineup so one half is on the top case and one half on the bottom, although you do not "have" to do it this way.

you are actually the first person i have heard that had a bad experiance with magnum... I would recommend Magnum for the simple fact that normally I would say 100% of ppl iv heard from with them where happy ( i guess now ill state 99%) Dajogejr runs one thats a few season old, he had it in his 4 mil cub and now in his 10 mil cub and it looks new. They are much cheaper then a Hinson thats for sure!

my +3 +1 arms do not angle forward. but if the shock mounts do not live up then it kinda answers its self. doesnt look right but if thats the only way they mount up then it has to be what kind of arms are they?

for after market clutches there is no ring. the rings is to help with clutch chatter. its not needed

good to hear, however this isnt the feedback thread

to have the domes makeup for the long rod they will need to have 5mm cut out. im pretty sure almost every builder has domes that are precut laying on the shelf for strokers but not to be used to take up the rod length. they will probly charge you extra to recut them again... the 795s will take up that space and then you can run the same domes you have right now, how ever you should never have your jugs done without having the pistons there with them so you can gt the correct tolerances. as far as extra torque , your not going to have any diferant power by dropping a stock stroke long rod in the motor. your simply goig to relieve some stress on the motor. you ,ight try selling your jugs and buying a set with a little more aggressive port on them. Depending on how much was taken off of your first port to make it a "woods" could effect what othr type of porting you are able to get....

you got the wrong lever... i did the same thing... contact ASV they will tell you which part number is the correct one... the right one bolts stright on the master...

you have the bottom ones swapped. you can look down at them and see that they are angled forward, they need to actually be angled towards the rear of the bike...

i try to tell everyone that asks me about him that the dude is awsome. people are sceptical for some reason when its not the big named companies. iv sid it 1000 times the dude knows what he is doing and will get you what you want.

you have to either cut your stocker and weld/epoxy this ring thing comes with the kit. or you can buy a new cover thats got some reinforced parts on it... the cubs are new cylinders that come off the press with drag port specs on them...

looks like thats right across the street from the store by the graveyard...

twisters are very nice cranks but not needed for what your going to be doing... just get a hotrods... same thing with cubs. Those are drag cylinders. So unless you plan on doig wide open racing i wouldnt bother .... Your not really going to need stright cuts either. it bolts right on top of the pressure plate wher the springs go

the lockup uses centrifugal force. it hase counter wieght on the lockup that open when the clutch spins. and locks your pressure plate down and allows no slippage. as far as your cylinders goes id keep your stock ones and have them ported. theres alot of power tht you can pull out of those things. just keep in mind when you put in the stroker crank its not just drop in and go. your going to need porting to change the port timings, a new clutch probly a longer swinger and depending on what kind of riding your doing bigger carbs and pipes... also with the stroker your going to have to either cut your stock head or get a cool head and have domes cut for the extra stroke. start looking around on here, you will find a ton of info about differant setups. start researching which would best suite u

also when guys run ATF and overrides you uses 2 quarts rather then 1.5

thats very similr to what my bikes going to look like, minus the plastics, im having ,my plastiics done in a 80's style. but the frame and parts are the same..

just get rid of the bottle and run the hose down the front of your frame.

Well one of the great thing about ATF is that it was built to with stand alot of pressure. and it is also a fairly decent lubricant when it fresh and not contaminated...

EZ to deal with, prompt payment. Great buyer!

to be 100% honest man, if he is telling you he wont work on a motor with a hotrods crank you need a new mechanic... theres nothing wrong with them. get it rewelded and your set. you have been on here long enough to know that hotrods is the crank that 90% of people use and how often do you hear of them failing? 305 for a oem crank sound like a waste. for 100 bucks more yu can get a stroker. but its your call. if your going to pu a stocker back in dont both spending 300 bucks on a oem crank, find someone that pulled one out of thir bike right after getting it and storked it. you can grab one of those for like 75 bucks... also for the clutch if your going to tick with a stock stroke then you dont need to drop 900 bones on that setup... get a billet basket and run the inner and pressure plate you have with some FZR 1000 Fibers and Stock banshee steels. get some HD springs and run 50/50. dont pay someone to rebuild your clutch you can do it your self in no time. and save your self ome money... its insanly ez shit if your that worried about it bring it to my house and ill doit for you for free. dont pay some machanic for that shit...

if your interested, i have a set of stock jugs. 64mm bore ported by alba last year, cill come with some 795 pistons. all you would need is the crank and you can throw these on and run. they are NOWHERE near a rebuild, only rode them last season...lmk... iv been selling these to a guy that has been pussy footing around and im done waiting on him to pay...

i got a bumper im selling... look at this post for a pict i also have some pro elite nerfs i might be willing to sell. i hadnt planned on it but i really dont think i want to put them back on...

The FAST clutch is only the plates... he is talking about the Hinson innerhub Basket and pressure plate.... 500 for a rebuild is kinda stupid. you can buy a brand new crank for 400. as im am sure you know if you want ot go the route of a stroker your going to need more then the crank. The kit your talking about is a spacer plate... not exactly the most favorable route. id say save your money and buy only the parts you need. you can get a new hotrods for 400 get porting for another 300-400 or possibly less. as far as your clucth goes look at a magnum billet basket. they are just as good as a hinson at a fraction of the cost. unless your running a big motor you can keep your inner and pressure you have right now. get ahold of Kevin at Herr jugs racing, he lives in encinitas so you can drive your parts up to him. Let him know i sent you and he might work you a better deal if he can.