Bansh-eman

ahh well at least your getting paid for 2 months while you find another job...

that has always been an argument... pretty much everyone will say they are for simply moving the carbs away from the arm. others will say they add power by emulsification and intake velocity. and just today i heard the first claim that they have actually seen it on a dyno that they made a gain. i have not personally see any proff that they provided any more power at any range. doesnt mean it isnt possible. i just dought it...

thats kind of the rule i use on any bolt.. pretty much the only thing i torque is the head and cylinder bolts. other then that i just tighten them down till i feel they are good.

you are actually the very first person i have ever heard say that they have seen any differance running spacers... you happen to have that dyno run still? id like to take a look at it...

the tube he is talking about goes between both carbs where the chocks r at... a small rubber hose. TORS is the Throttle Over Ride System. it controls your morot so if a slide gets stucj open it will casue the bike to cut out.. and yes it is connected to your e break. as long as you removed the botton under the lever your fine.

yea i'd have to agree. i got more issues now that we moved to a differant section... i no grasp the problem sovling shit again... now iv got to figure out how to take a word problem and turn it into an equation. man this is gay! and i thought thats id be done with math forever... i guess thats what i get for doing a brain dump after highschool

did you get any type of compensation or just a pat on the back?

im trying to picture it while i sit here at work behind my desk... i want to say the basket is in the way and it has to be removed. then you have to remove the fork thing on the end of the shift shaft and then you can unscrew the star... but im not forsure without seeing the thing infront of me...

ahh .3 lbs... oh well thats the differance of flicking a natz ass.

nice! at least you can say when you fuked that thing up... you did it right! no half assing it get your self a billet basket and that issue will be solved. as far as a needle bearing i cant think of anything inside the motor that has a needle.

i want to say the clutch bolt torque to 7.7? i might be thinking of something else but off the top of my head thats what i seem to be recalling

stick with works. they are top notch shocks! Elka is bullshit, your apying a to of money for the name period. works will meet the eklas in any type of performance at a fraction of the cost.

if your not going to build a storker right now dont waste your money on a hotrods crank. you can snag a stock crank for very cheap and have it welded. get the same performance out of it at a much cheaper price

when you wled the crank the amount of metal put on the webbing is not enough to worry about throwing your crank off. when you need to re-true it is when you rebuild it. just welding it you will be fine edit: that is assuming its not off right now.

well you mentioned that the oil is good, there is no engine oil. the oil you see is the tranny oil. do you know what he is running? if not id assume to change it and put something you trust in there. possibly check the clutch adjustment if it needs to be fixed do that. check all your electrical make sure everything is clean.

how did that end up in this thread?

thats over rated

if your not seriouse about riding, then just grab a stock crank and put back in there. theres other mods you can do that will give you more power without spending 500 bucks on a crank. you can probly get a used tock crak in good condition for 75 bucks. as far as your head goes you can either buy another stock one and have it milled or buy a coolhead and get smaller domes. again you say your not that seriouse, id go with a stocker thats milled its cheaper then a coolhead. buy your self some vf3 reeds and an adjustable timing plate and some pipes like toomey t-6 and you will be set.

i would hesitant to say "useless" , they are not bad for any motor for the simple fact that a clutch will lat you forever. They are not an absolute must unless your pumping out big numbers, but they are still worth having. only thing is your shifting will become harder because of it. so most guys o with a over ride as well with them.

you got the first one correct but not the second...i figured it out finally. i posted th answers too, but thanks for posting,im sure ill have more of them in the 11 weeks ahead until this course is done.

oh snap son!

if you dont buy from him get a D.I.D. 520 gold xring or oring depending on where you ride. 120 links will fit pretty much any bike unoless you have a LONG swinger. costs like 100 bucks. Just keep in mind when you change your chain you DO NOT want to reuse the old sprokets. they will eat your chain up and make it not last as long.

that seems to be a very common occurrence with Rob.

you got any cheap hookers for sale? i think im good, feel free to pass that offer to another member that might need something though

whats the deal with the 1-6 that you have to be stopped? thats the first iv heard of it... then again i havent really read shit about the 1-6 becasue i never cared to get one