Bansh-eman

my +6 from center of carrier to center of the pivot bolt is 25inches. so 23 for a +4 and 19 for a stock?

not sure about the modquad head but the PD you will have to replace your studs. all domes are interchangeable with PD ad NOSS .... um theres one more but its slipping through right now... if your wanting to stay with pump you can either stick with stock size domes which are about 22cc. or maybe get away with some 21s but youll need to do a compression tst once you get them in there and see for sure.

well i guess that went right over your head mark

i havent heard anything about 6th being unreliable. if anything it first or second because that thing gets to beat on. if your going to do 1-4 might as well go 1-5 and move neut down so you dont ever have to worry about missing 2nd you looking at a dunable ?

your friend is probly right. how long has it been since you did anything with the grease on the bike? i dont remember off the top of my head but i want to say the stock swinger does not have a zerk fitting for the axle? but i could be wrong, its been awhile since iv looked at one.. you might need to pop the seal and grease them back up. or might be worth just getting new ones before those get stuck in there...

i thought this shit hard figureing out after getting started... little did i know we have to do fuking statistics! that shits just retarded! they really figured out a way to make an average person feel fuking stupid thats for sure!

man i need to get a stiffy like that, life time warranty hu? mine only has a 20 or 30 min life span then its gone

with that setup i was running 320 mains, 27.5 pilots, stock needle 3rd clip, air screw 2 turns out... that should get you in the ball park.. if you want to find where to begin modding that bike make sure you use the search botton before making a post, i promise you it has been covered like 100 times, you just have to look a little to fnd it. p.s. change your name

his work is top notch, how ever your probly not going to sneek your motor in there and have it ready for this season. like 00t said give kevin a call at herrjugsracing.com i will guaranty you that you wil not be disappointed. and his turn around time will knock the socks off the big name builder right now!

well the yamabond is acting as the gasket so thats why you dont need it. but bar metal on bare metal is asking for failure. i know for a fact when guy toss a plate on there and just run stock porting the motor is a joke. as long as the builder has actually changed the port timings the only down fall is really just another surface to leak from.

yes its worth getting. if you ever plan on doing a lockup its a must. to install it you have to drain the fluids and pull your clutch cover off. remove the cluth and install it do your self a favor and buy a clymers manual. they will help you tackle any job on the bike step by step

thats not always the case, if you have a quality chromer do the alum they will last just as long as any other type of chrome.when they peel its because the mtal was not preped well. the guy that firehead is talking about can give you the down and dirty on it...

a spacer plate should require 2 gaskets, how can you run one gasket on two differant surfaces? like odean said the whole thing with the plate is it give one more place for the motor to leak from ...also are you sure your builder actually ported your jugs? you "can" run stock porting with the plate, its just going to be a joke. if there was no port work done, look into having them ported for the new stroke and get more of the hidden potental out of that motor

at the minimum run the springs. but when you can afford it look into a billet basket and better plates

im not even sure if those carbs will fit the stock intake... but like booker said get an after market, they have the cross over built in and will move the carbs up and over the clutch arm for clearance. look at Modquad, Boss, White Knuckle Racing, or MajicPerformance all of those are pretty much the same thing and are top notch in quality

for waht carbs and what intake? i dont think you need that big to clear the carbs

that shift pro is nice but its not a must, the star alone will help you not skip gears when shiting

they both achieve the same thing. the coolhead is nice for changing dome sizes. it doesnt help cool your motor any better once you hit operating temp. when your sitting it will aid a little just becsue it flows better. as a stand alone mod, your not going to see a ton of power from it.

oh yea and ever .010 bore is .25mm

a way to figure out your disalcement on your banshee is to use this equation... bore size in mm x bore size in mm x stroke length in mm x .0007854 x number of cylinders = dispalcement stock bore is 64mm stock stroke is 54mm so for a bone stock banhee it wouldlook like... 64x64x54x.0007854x2=347.435

with the way desribed above if you dont know wht your doing i would not try it. your bound to fuk something up.

get out your multimeter and start at the stator. work your way to the cdi then to the coil. theres lot of things that can cause no spark. start at the power plant and move inwards until you find your problem. also make sure your pickup is set right if your gap is too much then that can cause it too

Well Brad all i can say is a cub is all purpose intended from cp to be a drag motor. and you can still get "full drag porting" on them as well. I didnt realize you where the guy that rides a cub as a duner lol. If i had known that id have taken a pop at you lol....

an rz350 topend with those mods would be more suited for duning before a cheetah 421. i dont know what you consider a "good" duner but that 421 is too much to handle for simply pissing around in the dunes all the time. your working the bike more then having fun.

story of my life