Bansh-eman

you dont need to take that thing to 65 foot lbs... just get it tight. i dont torque any of my bolt cept the head bolts... how big of a chunk are you talking about? can you get picts?

you could get away with out the lockup.. just used HD springs and get an ez pull perch and lever...only thing i would change is T-5. I like those pipes. oh and im not a fan of the lightened flywheel...

Glad I could help! Thanks again!

i run a 200w RS .. i have had 0 problems... the guys that have issues with them are normally having issues with the set screws on the pickup. they are extremly weak and will strip out. the stator its self is fine. im sure there are a few as with any electronic that have a bad one that fryed but generally speaking they do what they need to do.. As far as the battery goes its not needed unless you plan on running some huge lights and want to do the d/c conversion or you simply want to run your lights while your bike is off. there have been many nightmare stories about guys ruining brand new stators trying to convert them... i know there are a couple guy on here that have had thier for a while and work fine. Id say if your not savy with electronics dont bother cause its unnessessary.

all those fancy cables do the same thing ovr time.. collect dirt and start to suck... just stick with the oem cables and clean them out every few months... yea the big purdy cable look nice but they do not function any better once they get dirty.. and lets face it they arent going to stay clean if it hits the dunes...

Jay, i wouldnt bother with the "expensive" cables... Polish has the breaded one on his bike and once they got close too the motor it caused the shit on the inside to unravel and mae his clutch almost impossible to pull... replaced it with a stocker and its been 0 problems... theres juts a few things that i will only use oem parts...this is one of them.

you donthave to use that to get the top end back on.. its just to keep it from turning over on you... get someone to give you a hand and have them hold the other side still... might take a few extra mins but its not hard to do... you just got to compress the ring and push the jug down... once you get it all lined up use the othre rod to make the piston slide in place...

you got software and cables with yours when you bought it?

humm thats odd, you shouldnt have to grind anything lol.... where was it catching that was keeping it from coming off?

so your saing you cant get the spacer that has the grooves in it off the drive shaft? it should just slide off... you should not have to use any tools to get it off... there is a small thin metal plate thats held on by 2 screws. remove the plate and see if maybe the washer and that spacer are stuck together and thats keeping it from sliding off...

most builders can get them even though they are not listed... but your prices are going to be differant depending on how much the builder marks up his products...just start calling around to FAST, Patriot, A&S, K&T, Cascade pretty much any builder.

remember that the lowest prices isnt always going to give you the best experiance... id say you should start calling around to builders and see who can help you figure out what it is you want. who will respond to your calls and not try to hurry you... the motors are from cp industries...http://www.cpindinc.com/

you will be very happy with the resluts.. ill promise you that!

are you talking about the kick starter assembly? is it the shaft where you kick start bolts to and then has the large spring and gear attached? if not snap a pict and post it on www.imageshack.us so you can post it up on here...

a lockup uses centrifugal force to open counter weights against the pressure plate cause it to "lock" the clutch allowing no slippage... It bolts up where your springs go on your pressure plate./ with this your shifting will be a little harder, that when alot of guy get override trannys. this allows you to change gears under full load without using your clutch....

sry i cant help you.... i knocked the centr bridge out of mine and drilled it out to fit the pingle better...

you talking about the lockup or the R6 clutch? if your talking about the R6 all it is , is differant clutch fibers... they re about 9 bucks each... the lockup with a cover will run you like 375

the R6 setup is pretty much the same thing in the FZR1000... either way you shuld start looking into buying your self a lockup... that will be the last clutch you ever buy once you get it...

i think it is possible but im not sure how to do it... i knoew that the user fresh changed his to something else some time last year and it kept all his info...

they have them on ebay, or you can get them from almost any builder... you need to decide what type of fule you want to run and then figure out what size for your elevation would achieve that...

humm thank you sir

humm you know why that is? im assuming pressure to the amount of dispalcment? you would thin that a fogger would give better results much like a large displacment motor edit: unless im thinking of it backwards... beeen some time that iv worried about any of it...

i havent really worried to read much on nos for these becasue i dont ever "plan" on running it. do they sell a fogger kit for quads?

soyou just going to punch anothr hole in the tank and run one stocker to each carb? not a bad idea.

you can buy a small bead blaster from harbor frieght i want to say for like 300-400 bucks. maybe cheaper, but im not sure if tats just the cabnet and you still need the wand and pump and everthing else. if it is 300 for everything thats not a bad item to have around. everyone can use a good sand blaster lol