Bansh-eman

so you have removed everything in front if it and its just stuck on the end of the drum? not stuck like its hitting somehting right? if its not hitting anything then you just have to pull it off. it probly wont b ez to remove...but dont go prying the shit out of it.... fid a small rubber mallet and tap it...

any competant motor shop or machine shop can do it for you... shouldnt cost more then 75 bucks... thats to true and weld it. so just to have a weld dropped on the web shouldnt cost much... while your at it check the bearings and make sure they are good too...

all a arm will fit stock shocks unless they ar long travel... the placment on extended a arms are the same its the end of it where the extra length comes from... you guys should look into Works... thier shocks are just as good as elka for MUCH cheaper and they have great customer service... elkas are expensive cause your paying for the name... just like hinson and magnum....

28 -30 Keihin airstrykers

humm thats funny with 60 over that motor is either a 364 with stock stroke or a 390 with a 4mil, the only thing that would put it close to a 410 would be a 7mil crank, and im pretty sure if he had that his description would entail it.

Have any of you guys seen that new stuff that I think was crane cam is doing now? You can send in crank cams whatever, and they hit it with the tiny beads and it smoothes out and strengthens pretty much any metal. They will only do it for new items they cant be run already. But they had a demonstration of some parts that had some pretty gnarly abuse and they looked better then brand new. They claim that the metal is so smooth once the process is done that metal on metal parts are relatively taken to the point that there is no friction. edit: mikronite.... thats what it called, couldnt think of it so i had to google it

you should really buy a sync tool, there is no way to get it perfectly synced without it... you can get it close but not dead ass on. you can get one from FAST racing for like 50 bucks.

if your used to riding a 4 stroke then your having to re-learn pretty much... with a 2 stroke if you want to stay in the power band you got to learn to work the clutch... its all about keeping your rpms up there so if you have to pull the clutch to rev her up then thats what you have to do to stay on the pipe aka remain in the power band

your pipes and jetting can throw your band off if they dont match the rest of your motor work. thats why you will hear time and time your killing that motor with those pipes... or your starving that they with those carbs... your intake, porting and exhaust all need to be working together to get max power out of the motor, or else your only going to gain as much as the one thats the most restrictive...

you sure its an autogenous weld? i thought they use fillers for them?

are you sure you understand what the powerband is? your motor is not goig to hit the powerband right away... the powerband is a range within your rpm's that your motor pulls its hardest... ech gear has its own powerband per say. as you shift it will hit or miss depending on the rpms.

jetting , electrical, topend need rebuilt ?? one of those could be your problem

i have not seen any of them but they look good. and you cant beat that price!

ill be damned if i change

well i got more i need help on guys... A bank loaned out $64,000, part of it at the rate of 11% per year and the rest at a rate of 7 % per year. If the interest received was $5640, how much was loaned at 11% I know the answer is 29000 but I don

Lucas makes good products. Id just stick with yamalube.

108 and 110 are fine for an aged stock motor. thats not really all that bad...

id rather be safe and just split the cases. its not all that hard to do...

bingo! this is the setup for sea level to 1500. if its not right on you will be very close go with the needle on the 3rd first.

it kinda sucks casue theres two of these topics going right now... one here and one in the reapir section....

yea thats kinda what i was saying on th other post about spacers... they have them on bg hot rods and they do make a differance. ( and one that you can feel) and i said something about by the dyno yes it might find that you gain .04 hp or what ever the case is but i wouldnt state that as a power gain although by diffenition it is... i guess its just one of those things that your not going to notice unless you got a monster motor pulling a ton of air in.. but i still am kind of skeptical on if it would make enough of a differance on a motor with the displacment the size of a quad.... Edit: i watched your dyno runs... those are some pretty good numbers for that setup.... i looked at the last sheet you posted... says 340 mains.... you running that motor rich?

welp there you go

*CLAP* *CLAP* *CLAP* wheres the nudies?!?!

its funny that you bring up all of those topics... they have been talked about here and there and argued back and forth so much. my .02 is that a motor is a motor. big or small what owrks on one will work on the other. i guess where alot of the argument comes from is that say the reed spacer thing actually add power in the form of .01 hp at 10k rpm... i wouldnt call thats a performance gain... by definition, yes its a gain becasue its more then you started with. i know that the tornado thing does not work on cars cause they did it on myth busters. the idea seems that it would work though. as far as the cranker i have no clue. it also seems like it would aid but just like the tornado it could be a myth.

the crossover is only on stock carbs so yours will not have a hose connecting the two... you say those are PWK, i have never seen a pwk with that top hose like that...also on PWK the idle screw for the carbs are on the other side.... at first i thought that was your fuel line... then i saw it at the bottom... i have no clue what carbs those are. maybe someone else can spot those out. they look like some sor of flat slide carb, but not PWKs