Bansh-eman

hey bro no need to get pissy, but if you were to read in the general banshee forum i made a post last week about getting ripped off for 2500 bucks worth of shit from a new member on here. just the way it has to be man. you havent been around and proven to anyone that your trust worthy. until then your asking these guys to base their hard earned money on your words. the same thing i did and got taken for 2500 bucks... like said we are a tight family over here. if your around for the long haul youll see. we are just looking out for one another. business is business but you have to earn the trust man.

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give me a buzz i can set you up here in SD we can get you started learning your bike as much as your comfortable doing. I got a local guy thats a member on here that i send a ton of guys to , to get motor work done.

when i was running close to the same setup on stock carbs, near sea level i ran 310 mains and was a tad rich... your running pretty lean with 280's while you have your carbs open see what pilot and needle you have in there... also what notch the needle is on

are you sure he didnt say that it was neutral moved down? this is very common. and its not nearly the same work as moving all 6 gears...

For Sale.... Stock Jugs w/ extended studs Ported by Alba Racing for a 4mil 64.00mm Bore Comes with 795 Weisco Pistons. 5 Trips on both motor and pistons. $400 ( Sorry No Picture right now FAST has my motor ) Pro Elite Nerf Bars $100 Pro Flow Adaptor... $40 IMS Tank ( NO cap or petcock ) $175 Aluminum Bumper $50 Stock Coil $50 Lower Motor Mounts $15

sounds more like lean jetting, when we raced laydown karts coming across the front straight on a nascar track you can reach over and turn your carbs leaner which is the eqivalent of a lean main on these.. it would get you that extra power to jump past them but its not very good to have this prolonged. your running the chance that you lock that baby up.

mine did the same thing, i think the search code changes over time and the link will stop working eventually

the shocks and swinger / arms are going to be your biggest expense. but like i tell everyone, it doesnt mater how badass of a motor you got. if you cant keep that power to the ground your wasting your time. start with your suspension then work your motor after... that is unless you can afford to get it all at once

ablosutly, thats the same motor i ran all last year. trinity i belive has their won special domes to fit their head. but i know you can buy more... if you had say a noos or prodesign cool head the domes are interchangable. the 4mil crank will drop right in. no trenching needed. just make sure you do the porting at the samt time. there is a differance in porting per the stroke. so if you did it for your stock stroke then got a crank you would have to redo it...

if you want to do it right and you can afford it, spend the extra money and get a 4mil crank. by stock crank and a dune port will run better then a stock motor for sure but your not really complementing the porting and pipes with the small crank, which in turn is needing a smaller carb. your already going to spend the money to port it so all you need now is the crank and pistons and to either cut your stocker or a cool head with the correct domes for the stroker...

hurrmmmmm, as much as i ahte to do it, i think ima just spend the extra bills and get another lonestar

35s will be over doing it... but your going about this all wrong... keep in mind, a drag pipe ( Shearer or CPI ) will not run well with small carbs... your intake, porting, and exhaust all need to compliment each other... you can have the biggest baddest port job but if your carbs and pipes dont work with it your not going to get the correct power gain... you need to do some more research before you go spending your money...

are you going to run a 4mil crank or just dune porting?

well i know one for them everyone was having issues installing because of the little clip. but my concern was with them bending... i had a lonestar but it got stolen with all the other parts. im debating to just suck it up and buy another one or try a new brand... right now im leaning towards sticking out the lonestar.

I am responding without really reading your whole post so I might be off topic here... The CPI and Shearer pipes are both great pipes but do not let the differance in price sway your purchase... the two pipes are very differant from one another... as far as your 2 in 1 intake goes. I would not run in with the little bit i read. Some guys swear by them, i how ever have not seen them generate the same power as dual carbs. for a mild ported bike or a bike that your trying to build your bottom end or mid they are great. they are also very ez to tune. but if your looking for a topend bike they are not designed for that. will it run? yes will it run to its max potentail? probly not. but having all top end isnt the end all be all to a race. so there is a ton of factors to decide if it is the right setup for you.

i guess the thing is he is playing hide and seek. i know we did that many years ago.. but i dont think it is very smart to run low/no lights for the fact that you dont want to be seen by them... but its up to you

jumper, have you had any issues with the rubber seals going bad? distilled water is the best coolant you can run, the problem is over time the seals will dry out and crack. so by adding watter wetter or something like that it not only drops the temp but it has a lubricant for seals in there too...

ok so i take back my last... i thought that i had freeze protection...

I can not remember which axle it was that you guys where having issues with... was it the Durablue or the G Force?

oh i stand corrected... i thought i remembered it having freeze protection.

the amount of light is not enough for you to see anything infront of you when your moving trust me. Im in the Marines. we train with blackouts all the time. If your not wearing NVG's your not going to see shit period. the amount of light that thing puts out is so small on a moving truck or quad your eyes are not going to have a chance to focus on what your about to hit until you hit it.

all a blackout light is. is a small led type bulb that has a shield over the top that only allows the light to come out of the housing and point it down to the ground. makes very little light at all. it will not be enough to see where you are going... the purpose of it is that when drivig with night vision goggles the ambient light from the tiny bulb is enough for others to see that are using night vision so you dont run into them. its not to actually put light on the ground enough to see anything

engine ice will hold up in the winter as well. anti freeze dose nothing for a cooling agent, its simply to keep the fluid from freezing in the winter.

thier turn around times are horrable right now though. every one trying to get last minute jobs done have them all backlogged