Bansh-eman

I was very suprised at the outcome of that game! I thought Indy would walk all over the Saints. That on side kick was NOT expected! And brilliant I might add! looks like Mardi Gras is going to be an extra 9 days long this year!

Bump

It's been like 4 years or more since I have looked at the inside of stock carbs so I am trying to picture what your talking about. Don't they just have a little notch cut into the slide and a "nipple" at the top of the body that keeps them from turning? I can't think of anything that needs to be JB Welded to keep the slides from turning.

Klotz and Redline smell great.

WTF is a guide dowel? Are you talking about the needle jet the goes through the slide???

There is a place out here called Prasek's south of Houston in a small town called El Campo. They make AWESOME jerky! It's like 20 something bucks for a pound, but the stuff is crazy good! They smoke everything so it still had some tenderness to it and doesnt get all dried out. I wish I could make jerky as good as they do! I just looked at thier site. Most jerkys are 25 bucks a lbs, but the venison and bison are 35!!!

Those bushing are pretty universal. Alot of them will fit oe shock from the next. If you have some for other shocks that will slide in the sleeve and keep the shock from moving when it's mounted you will be ok. If not call Works, they arelike 1 or 2 bucks for a set... at least they used to be.

Same as madjimm... I had works revalve my shocks two times. I was always able to get ahold of them. And the old man that does the tech support is very helpful.

Fireball makes great products. The guy that owns Fireball is kind of an asshole though. Alot of other "builders" buy parts from him because he has the expensive machinery to make it for cheaper than it would cost them to make themselfs. I have thier drag a arms and spindles. They are put together great, and the chrome is top notch. I have also owned a set of wickeds. They where also very nice. Sometimes they will have sales because they made too many sets and need to make room. Either arms will be a great setup.

Here is a response from another member on the truck forum: On a 3rd gen the following is pretty close to how the ECM treats idle.. ~32*F, and coolant temp is below 160*F and the brake, throttle, gears aren't touched for 2 minutes the rpms will increase to 1000 rpms, until 160*F, brake, throttle, gears, etc are touched, selected. ~15*F, and coolant temp is below 180*F the truck instantly goes to 1000 rpms up startup, and will do it again if you don't touch, gas, brake, gears, etc and are stationary for 2 minutes, and the coolant drops below 180*F.

Every single person I know that rides sand (we only hill shoot but I used to ride with alot of duners)uses NON O-Ring. The sand will eat the dog shit out of the O-Ring. I have ran nothing but Non O-Rings in Sand. Not a single issue ever. Only reason I have EVER changed my chain was because I went to a longer swinger. I am starting to think you like to argue just for the sake of arguing. Oh yea and if you run O-Ring chains and you wash your bike with a pressure washer, make sure you do not put the pressure directly between the link to clean the grease off. You can either jackup the O-Rings or get water stuck behind them and cause rusting.

Buy your self a Regina Gold and be done with it. O-Ring vs. Non O-Ring is just as it sounds. The O-Ring is ment for water and mud to help keep the elements out from between the links. If you run in sand do not use a O-Ring chain or it will get warn out in no time from the sand eatting the O-Ring.

I have a Fastenerguy polished kit. It's done well. I have a few bolts that have some surface rust from being stored and not maintianed while I was deployed but nothing bad. I also have had a few bolts get galled or torn up threads over the last 2 or so years I have had the kit. He has repaced the bolts and uts free of charge on more than one occasion.

When I was in San Diego I went to alot of differnt shops. I couldn't find Klotz anywhere. Of course a few of them will "Special order it" for you, but that cost more than just buying it off Rocky Mountain and paying for the shipping.

I had one got stuck along time ago. I got enough slack in mine that I could fit hack saw blade in there and cut the bolt.

Depending on what kind of switch your using will depend on what wires you use. I used a two stage toggle so I only had on and off. I put the auxillery power to one side and the headlight high beam wire and tail light wire to the other. It has been over two years ago so I dont remember the colors, but if you look at the wire diagram you can figure it out. I also have a CR250 kill switch. All you have to do is disconnect the wires from the stock unit and splice them into the CR switch. When you take off the stock housing it is very straight forward.

Booker beat me to it. I noticed right away it wasnt a HR crank. The red center was what caught my eye, then the rods.

Are you guys using dehydrators to make your jrky or smoking the meat on a pit?

I am sure there are more guys that have experianced the same results as you, but I haven't met anyone personally. Everyone I know that's used Yamalube hasnt had any issues, nor fouling that wasn't due to bad jetting. Like I said before, the Yamalube can be found almost anywhere. The Klotz can not. Even in San Diego no one carried Klotz. I had to either order it from Rocky Mountain or wait until we went riding with Jon at Sand Toys Unlimited and buy a gallon off him. So in the end the Klotz cost us more, and didn't offer any better results. That of course was on a gas bike. Now that I run alky, I have to pay the shipping.

Bearings can let go at any time. 1 hour into a rebuild or 15 years down th road. It could be becasue you have motor issues, or it could be a bad bearing if its on a new build. To say that Yamalube mixed 24:1 was the cause and after you changed oil it fixed your problem is passing false info.

I am sure your wise enough to figure out that the two items (fouled plugs, and bearing going where two differant topics. You never said that you fouled plugs when you first got it or 40 years down the road. You never said you fouled them when temps changed and you didnt rejet. So yes, one could have been cause by being too rich... then down the road you got a leak that casued the motor to blow... Is that too hard to understand?

Not sure why people do, but lots do. Like I said before I knew much about 2 stroke I did, becasue thats what was reccomended. Once I found out that I could lean it out alot and be ok I did. Is reccommending that much oil a marketing strategy? I don't know, but what I do know is it will burn fie without fouling if your jetted right.

Oh and let me clarify that befor you try and add more words to what I said... That goes for oils similar to Yamalube (Semi Synthetics) People run 24:1 all the time without fouling. Hell I ran 24:1 before I knew anything about 2 strokes. Fouled probly two sets, then I rejeted and never fouled another (while running 24:1 that is) Look at your weedwackers, those things run 24:1 or more, how often do they foul plugs? I think I have a 8 year old weedwacker with the original plug in it, and it still runs.

No what I am saying is that premix WILL properly burn at 24:1 as long as your jetted properly and will not cause fouling.

Yea I don't even own a cord for my block heater. I wanted to put a exhaust brake on my truck when i was hauling all the time. Kind of glad I didnt sink the $$ in it because I almost never haul any more.