Beerplease

I am at 600' so really close to your elevation, I only seems rich from idle to midrange so that has to be the pilot and needle jet. I tried going one clip up(leaner) but not much of a change, I guess it cannot hurt to go to the leanest position and see what happens.

I have a 2001 Banshee that is 95% stock that I bought and rebuilt after the PO blew the top end. During the rebuild I noticed that the front pads where worn so I replaced those and put the bike back together. The front brakes are pretty much non-effective even after power bleeding them, and even reverse bleeding them with a syringe. There are no leaks and both pistons move freely in the calipers and there are no bulged rubber hoses etc. It will build some resistance after pumping the front lever but is still pretty wimpy in the stopping department. I am pretty sure it must be the master cylinder seals that are failing allowing fluid to bypass which is keeping enough pressure away from the pistons. Anyone else have problems with the stock seals failing after a while? The system looked like it had never been opened before, but the fluid was a bit dirty. Where is the best place to by a rebuild kit for the master cylinder if I need one?

I have a 95% stock '01 Banshee(my first) and I am having some jetting issues after a fresh top-end: Heres the current setup: Stock bore with fresh pro-lites Stock reeds and carbs with boost bottle Stock pipes and silencers Stock airbox with snorkel and fresh Maxima pre-oiled filter Stock 200 Main, stock pilot(25) and needles are on the 2nd clip Air screws 2 turns out, slides opening at the same time 93 octane gas with Maxima oil mixed 32:1 68 degree day at 600' elevation Fresh NGK B8ES plus Heres what's happening: Starts and idles perfect, starts without choke, with choke on it seems to want to quit. After 5 min warmup or so it really does not want to rev cleanly and no powerband, with the box lid off and filter out it runs better and will go into the powerband but not cleanly. Plugs are wet and have 1/2 of the ceramic brown all the way to the electrode from the base I tried going up on clip on the needle(leaner) with no real change, tried going out up to 4 turns on the air mixture, no real change there either, and I de-oiled the pre-oiled filter just for kicks too, nothing changed. I though the stock setup on a stock bike should at least be close but it still is rich especially with the box on. Carbs have be cleaned and float level is spot on, like I said earlier the bike is 95% stock and has not been modded at all. I am not sure what I need to change next, go to a smaller main or pilot, or maybe go to the leanest clip position on the needle, I am getting close to a nice running bike but need some guidance as I am new to the Banshee.

Ok that's what I was afraid of, I did find the boots I needed however and now that I look at that lower ball joint again after disassembling the other one I see that the that bolt is not straight either. So I am going to assume that that is the way that the threaded portion is supposed to be?

I have a stock 2001 Banshee and I am in the process if replacing all the worn out pieces on the bike. One of the lower front control arm ball joints has a bent shaft and a torn up boot. Is it possible to get replacement stock-type ball joints? And if so do the old ones just press out of the a arms. And If not where can I get a set of boots to replace the torn one until I can find some used arms?

Hey thanks for all the great ideas guys. I guess I will just beat on it until she starts to move and hope for the best!

Well I am afraid I will mushroom the end of the bolt if I whack it hard enough to move it that way, as I have already deformed it slightly with hammer. A air chisel might work, where did you apply the chisel? Under the head of the bolt?

Ahh it sounds like there is a indeed a recessed area for them to sit in so they can only go in so far before they hit a lip right? So by tapping the back of the smaller bearing you are driving them out from the other end?

Trying to replace some bad front hub bearings today with no luck. All the repair manual states is to replace them if the are bad not how to remove them. I am assuming that because there is a spacer in between that all I need to do is press out the bearings from the small side towards the large side? They do not seem to want to budge with the press, I tried heat and a socket with a mini sledge with no noticeable movement. Am I doing something wrong here?

Sorry here is a pic of the arm.

I am trying to remove the long top front control arm bolt and it will not come forward. It spins freely with ratchet but appears to be stuck to the long bushing inside the tube. I have tried PB blaster, greasing the tube at the zerk, heat, impact gun and a banging on the nut side while turning the head with a impact to no avail. As these bolts are quite soft I am afraid to go to crazy with beating on it. Anyone have any ideas or tricks to remove this bolt? I don't even think I could get anything in between the arm and the frame bracket to cut the bolt and then replace it and the bushing.