letsgetthisdone

ummm, two strokes tend to smoke, especiallly when cold and/or running rich. And if you put in extra premix for break-in that could be why. Do a leak down test, that'll tell you whether or not you have a problem.

That looks normal too me. Looks like you gat a set of ported cylinders too.

I live out in the northwest (about 5 minutes west of craig and the 95). We should definetely go ridin or somethin when you get better. There is a kick-ass go-kart place by tropicana and I-15, call Fast-Lap. They got actual race-karts that have like 10 or 15hp engines. They keep the track tight so you don't really notice the lack of speed, just how fuckin good the damn things handle..(really hard on the neck though..lol). PM me when you feel up to doin somethin... I just gotta get around my parents..lol. They seem to think everyone on the internet is a fuckin child molester . They're so over fucking protective. I'm old enuf to handle myself (16) and knock someone out if they try to get handsy...lol. :biggrin:

Hey man, I live out in vegas, hit me up if you ever wanna go ridin. Glad to hear your surgery worked out. -Sean

Just get a decent port job. Several builder told me you lose the radius on the transfer ports and hurts power potential, even with just a 68mm sleeve in stock jugs. I you want a big bore get aftermarket cylinders.

meh....i don't mind typing. :thumbsup:

RNBRAD's leak down test(er) There ya go. But DON'T cheap out on the compression tester, get a snap-on, craftsman, or a mat-co. If you don't already have a clymer, pick one up, it'll make re-assembly 1,000 times easier. oh yeah, torque wrenches too, an in-oz and a ft-lb one.

Once it is back together, do a leak down test before you run it. Then run it for a few minutes to burn off the assembly lube and then check the compression. If the compression is over 160psi, you need to run fuel that has higher octane than premium pump gas. Get back to us with compression numbers when its back together.

Could be a couple of things.... -fouled sparkplug -loose or bad plugwire/caps(s) -air leak (do a leak down test) -lack of octane (check compression, you may need to run better gas) -your jetting could be off (do a plug chop) -if you have pod filters make sure they ae both on all the way Check that stuff and get back to us. :thumbsup:

I do everything myself, except porting and machining... Its not that hard if you have the tools and a clymer.

Good one..... as a desert rider, i like this one, CHROME DON'T GET YOU HOME! :biggrin:

yup, mine worked awesome the one time i needed it to, and you forget its there while you're riding, it doesn't limit your movement at all. Its a tether thats attached to you waist and pulls a clip out of the switch, killing the motor.

You can go after them for that shit you know, something like "improper grounds for termination". I'd talk to a lawyer if i was you.

That 250f might be worth $3,000. And being an '03, if the head hasn't been rebuilt yet plan on spending at least $1,000 dollars just for that. If it still has the original crank and its out of tolerance when you check while the head is off, thats $220. Piston is gonna be $125, might as well buy on oil pump while its apart, so another $100 (i think), seals and gaskets $100. If you can't do it yourself, say $350+ for a four stroke tear down/rebuild. So i would definetely wanna make sure its been rebuilt recently, especially if its a race bike liekt eh numbers indicate, and ask the guy what class he races in. If he raced it every weeken, that bike should've had the head rebuilt once a year. . I'd wanna see reciept's for motor work if i was you. And these are real world prices, i'm not just pullin 'em outta my ass, my cousin just had his whole motor rebuilt, and he did the labr himself, it was close too $1,600 by the time he was done with it Or you can buy a YZ125, worst case scenario it needs a piston and crank, you're lookin at $400, and the bike is only gonna cost $1500 to $2,500.

I've had 3 builders tell me to not go with a 68mm big bore on stock cylinders cuz you lose the radius on the transfer ports (or somethin like that...). What kinda port is it, cuz you should've destroyed him on asphalt unless hes runnin more than what he's tellin you. If its only a mild port, step it up to an agressive dune port or a drag port and get some 33 or 35mm pwk carbs. Also, get some CPI's or shearers to go with the bigger porting. But the question is how do you usually ride your shee? That is what is going to dictate what porting and pipes you will be the most happy with.

I don't know why you think he needs cubs.....But he will need to get his cylinders ported for the crank, special stroker domes and 795 series pistons. I would not run the spacer plate, just one more spot for an air leak. Get some 33 or 35pwk's or 34pj's and you'll have a fun bike.

Thats your problem. Most hiems are self lubricated (teflon lined). Any lubricant you spray on then is just going to attrract dirt which wears 'em out very fast.

road racing andridin on the dirt are two VERY different beasts. If you plan on riding trails port the stock jugs and run a 4 mil crank, it'll be more than enough power, especially since your bike appears to have stock suspension all the way around (shit, a piped banshe is almost more than the stock suspension can really handle), at least as far as I can tell from your avatar.

Looks good man. The lower arms should be swept formard a lil bit (like they are) and like mullet man said, it looks like you couldn't flip the upper arm around without interfering with the shock.

I didn't say the stocker didn't work well, i said it faded quickly. No amount of shock tuning is goin to make that go away. :thumbsup:

There is absolutely NO quality issues with ASR a-arms. They have held perfectly through all of the crazy abuse I have put them through.

If you ride fast over rough terrain (decent sized whoops/ruts, bumps etc), it will fade. Mine fades horribly after about 30 minutes of fast riding in the desert, it basically turns into a pogostick. In the dunes it doesn't fade because the the dune are relatively smooth and I'm not constanly using the full travel of the shock like I am in the desert. If I were to do it again I would save the $400 to go towards an aftermarket shock. You won't notice it fade too much (if at all) when jumping because you're not repeatedly slamming the piston through the oil like when you're blitzing a whoop section. And any shock will fade if you get it too hot (shocks have a normal operating temp, they don't stay at room temp while you're riding), but the aftermarket shocks have larger bodies and larger resivoirs which hold more oil. This helps them dissipate heat better and not get hot to the point where they fade.

Start with a 185 main, do a plug chop when you get there (bring a 180 and a 182 with you to switch out). :thumbsup:

start at 7, then 14, then 20ft-lbs (final torque wrench setting, don't go any tighter). Once you get to 20, keep going around the head and re-tourqing all of the nuts until none of them move, Even if just one of 'em moves, go around the whole thing again. :thumbsup:

I don't ride motocross, but point at a drop-off in the dunes and i'll huck my bike over 3/4's of the way down it...if that tells you anything about bein confident with my setup. I have ASR arms, which are better than a what lot of people are going to say they are. And as for the expense of the elka rear shock, you are already half way there (as far as money goes) by not revalving your stocker.