letsgetthisdone

i can't beleive this was never pinned..

its just gonna work better when your haulin ass over big bumps and be a lil choppier over the small choppy stuff when your goin slow...

do it right the first time and buy an aftermarket rear shock, elka or works. even if you get the stocker revalved it fades and turns to shit real fast cuz its just doesn't have the oil volume that the bigger aftermarket shocks have..

they should've asked for your wieght, riding style/skill level, and swinger wieght. that way you get the right spring...

oh, and don't go big bore on your stock cylinders. getting a good port job done will net you better gains in power. If you don't feel comfortable takin your motor apart. you can send it out and have a reputable builder tear it down, true/weld the crank (or replace if nessaccary), bore/hone your cylinders, port it, and reassamble. i'll give ya a price breakdown..... true weld crank: $50 ($400 for a new crank that is trued and welded) bore/hone: $90 pistons: $150 port work: $250-$350 depending on what you want coolhead: $235 HD clutch: $100 teardown reassembly: $250 what mods are already on your bike?

if your topend is worn you'll just need a piston kit from wiseco, and then have your cylinders bored an dhoned to match the pistons.. If its a good shop, ther'll match one piston to one cylinder and mark it for you, then all you have to do is check ring end gap and throw it together. Get a clymer manual, it'll tell you how to take it apart and put it back together, as well as what your ring end gap should be. it'll also tell you how much play the rod has in it and in which directions that play should be in. Before you order piston and such, you could have a machin shop measure you pistons and cylinders and they can tell you whether or not its time for a fresh topend if they know what the piston to cylinder clearance is supposed to be. If you do need a topend make sure you get the needle bearing for the smallend of the connecting rod, where the wristpins and such goes, they don't come with the piston kits for some reason. And get a complete topend gasket kit. I should've asked this before but....what year is your bike and how many hours do you think are on it? do you know if it has had any rebuilds doneto it in the past? before you take it all apart you can fire it up with the clutch cover and timing cover off so you can better tell where the noize is coming from.

i'm gonna be takin my single carb setup off of my shee here in the next few weeks. I want $350 plus shipping for it. Its in good shape, only been on the bike for about a year, and due to down time and such only has about 45hrs on it.. comes with: trinity manifold and carb boot 35mm keihin pwk main jets 175-190 a 45, 48, 50, and 55 pilot jets EEK and DEK needles clamp-on k&n filter with outerwear and a terrycable stainless braided throttle cable

look for an upholstery shop in your area, they should be able to make you a seat thats a few inches taller..

anyone gotta a buggy i can ride in with them for the weekend, let me know. gotta broken ankle, so i can't ride til christmas..

i'm leaning towards bad right side crank seal..

ya, but hes used to a dirtbike which has a seat to footpeg distance prolly 4"-5" longer than on a banshee, makes it easier to go from seated to standing/attack position...

once the crank starts to separate it just goes boom, thats it. if you search around you'll find a thread bigred350x put up when he did his crank..

if you go with a different one PRM is the way to go..

call the guy who did the port work, he should be able to give you a baseline.

i'm pretty sure AC racing sell a nerfbar/heelgaurd setup with propegs that relocates the pegs...not sure where the pegs get moved to though...i don't have mine yet..

get a clymer manual, it'll tell what to check and what the tolerances are. If you need a new crank just buy a new and get it trued and welded. it costs more to rebuild the crank then to just buy a new one... I don't think your crank is messed up though, your top-end might gettin tired and loose and you might be hearing piston slap..

hmmm, i work at the Cycle Gear up here in vegas. the last guy that got a little fresh with a customer got fired on the spot...

if you have a "cycle gear" near you can go in there, ask one of the employees where they get their shit done, and order a piston kit, gaskets and such while you're there...

i have asr a-arms and the only complaint i have is that the hiems wore out within a year...i need to find higher quality replacement hiems..

send 'em to elka..

if you go with yfz spindles you will need to run all yfz parts; hubs, rotors, calipers etc...and it will work. if you stick with banshee spindles, you put yfz caliper on the banshee spindles for better stopping power.

so, when you gonna finish that thing man

RK 520SXO

thats some thick ass oil, and thats prolly why its doin it. usually it loads the chain up a lil bit when you put in gear but not as bad as you're describing. I'd put some motorcycle gear oil in the tranny, that'd prolly solve your problem. Maxima MTL 80wt is good stuff.

your clutch basket might be worn out. over time grooves get cut into the fingers on the basket and it keeps the clutch from fully disengaging and engaging. does the idle go down when you put it in to gear?