letsgetthisdone

its dune ported by FAST, and hes told me that he's went from t5's to cpi's on a few motors that are very similar to mine and it made a decent difference. I was just contemplating cuz the t5's are start to get really haggard, and figured if i get new pipes i might as well get somethin a lil better..

thanx shayne! and as far as the sparkplugs go, how hard is it to get to them, cuz with my T5's its easy as hell..

same thing happened to me. my ricky stator grenaded and locked up my motor. thought it was the crank, but it ended up being the stator. its on its way to ricky stator for replacement...

you use a balljoint fork to get the a-arms off of the spindles... and your dealer isn't lieing to you. i just looked at a parts list breakdown on a dealer website, it shows pix of the assemblies and all of the parts are numberedand what not, the boots come with the a-arms. if the boots are messed up are the joints are worn out you can put get aftermarket +2+1 arms and some shocks to go with them for under $1,000. and it'll ride a lot better than stock..

I've been thinking of switching from T5's to a set of CPI inframes. I have a FAST aggressive dune port, stock stroke crank. cool head with 20cc domes, and 30mm keihins (bored out 28mm PWK's). I wanna know three things.. 1. how hard will it be to get at the sparkplugs with the CPI's 2. will i notice an apreciable power gain 3. and what kind of pwerband are the CPI's gonna have thanx, sean

ratio rite and a calculator would solve that problem...

those are fuckin sweet!!

it blew up while you were off the gas cuz it was spinning 10,000 rpm's but trying to get fuel through the pilot jet...

..........0'....1000'...2000'..3000'..4000'..5000' 0' is sea level... 18cc...197...178.....171....170....165.....145 19cc...183...167.....160....158....152.....137 20cc...169...156.....149....146....140.....129 21cc...156...145.....138....134....128.....121 stock..130...125.....118....112....106.....100 there's your dome sizes and compression relative to elevation. I'd say go with 20cc domes and get a timing plate and run it at +4 degrees. that setup would be safe on fresh pump gas and give you good all around performance. You could also look into a good all around port job for more power.

unless you raise your compression, i see no need to run 50/50 pump/race fuel...

um, prolly cuz they want you to buy thier silencers. i hate companies like that.

yup definetly get it welded...

not a bad idea to do it now. that way you won't have to split the cases to get it done if you decide to go with higher compression or some port work in the future...

i have 20x10x10 8 paddle haulers, and they kick the shit out of the sand skate 2's i used to have. way more hook up and it just takes a little bit more rear brake to throw into a turn....

its a bracket that is on the bike stock, the pwr rad uses all of the stock brackets...

i don't see where strength would be an issue there so i'd get whatever looks best or can be made to the best.....so prolly aluminum

if you get +2+1 you will be as wide as a stock 450. that would be the way to go IMO. i would jump on bansheedan's offer, he's a great guy. you'll prolly need a revalve on all 3 shocks though, dan is a mall guy...

T5's are a kickass allaround pipe...they make a lil more power than FMF's and they a look better IMO

you have some sort of a problem in the cylinder with the gray plug. you may have an air-leak some where. you should definetly be doin some inspection. especially since your plug isn't any shade of brown... and a head gasket is like $5-$10

gray usually means metal. pull your head and see if the piston is still 100% intact...

if you have fully adjustable aftermarket a-arms you can reduce the castor. this will make it steer more easily, but it will get twitchy if you reduce it too much..

i don't jump my banshee that big, i just abuse the living shit out. i don't slow down for stuff that most people would. And i know the difference between mig and tig. All the welds i did on my frame had a shiny grayish color to them, and i think raw carbide is dull :shrug: .Which is what the welds on my buddys i-beams look like that he got from camburg. So i think i did somethin right... I'm coming from the point of view that a stock banshee frame is pretty crappy. So the strength that a few well positioned gussets will add pretty much negates the lack of carbon. And i think you have it backwards, carbon makes steel brittle. Look at a diamond, it is 100% compressed carbon, hardest shit known (i think), but throw a big chunk on the ground hard and it shatters. I would think that that make the steel more maleable(sp) when there is less carbon in it, would it not. and no offense taken, i see this as friendly debate, no need to waste your time typing that kinda stuff......lol.

he wants on cuz banshee frames bend easily. rear shock mount tube bows up, steering hoop is easily tweaked. subframe is made of butter. and the steering stop will bend to the point where it will jam the steering at full lock. and the front clip is just weak. i have had not further problems with my frame after replacing a few tubes and gussetting the shit out of it. I rolled it at dumont and out in the desert since i gussetted it. nO new broken tubes and the subframe and steering hoop are still straight. And if carbon steel is weakened by welding, wouldn't the frame already be weak since it is welded together? and i would bet a billion dollars yamahe didn't TIG weld these frames, so they are already weak by going off what you are sayin.

try a new spark plug. if that doesn't help, turn the idle up a lil bit. if that doesn't help, turn the air screw out some. if that doesn't help, put the air screw back to where it was and go up a size on the pilot jet. do it in that order and the problem should get solved.

someone is gonna feel insulted by this but.....you won't need a longer swinger if you know how to ride your damn bike. I have a F.A.S.T. 350 dune port and have no trouble keeping the frontend in check with 20x10x10 8 paddle haulers and a stock swinger. Its interesting from dead start when doing a hard launch, but nothing a lttle clutch finnesse and body movement can't take care of. And it keeps the bike agile for duning, whoops, jumping, and general riding if you leave the stock length swinger on it. JMO. Dune port: $375 Pipes: $500 (for T5's) stock carbs will be OK Bore/Hone: $90 Pistons/Rings etc: ~$150 top-end gasket kit: ~$30 heavy-duty clutch: ~$100 (EBC metal and fiber plates, stiffer springs) Crank true/weld: $50 various jets: ~$30 coolhead with domes: ~$250 bottom-end seal kit: ~$40