Snopczynski

It needs to be a single phase, full wave regulator rectifier (zero loss snowmobile unit from Wisconsin). I have one for sale if your interested pm me. I also have a battery and mount for the banshee for sale. Basically the battery mount works on the bike if you run a pod filter and not an airbox anymore.

Ricky Stator

What gauge are you using?

Do not run it anymore until you figure this out. If you run the motor backwards the kickstart gear can get sucked in and spit out through the case.

Did you warm it up before checking, pull both plugs, kick it 5-10 times, and hold the throttle wide open?

the hex key slot or phillips slot in the end of the stud. Use loctite blue.

Im not sure if they did the transfers, but the exhaust was polished as far as I can tell. Im not sure if it was raised, I didn't measure it. The intake was messed with definitely. With the port job now, the power comes on the same amount with the torque as it did before, it starts to hit the midrange and pull harder than before, then all of the sudden its like you hit a nitrous button and it gets on the pipe really hard and starts really taking off as it gets up on the top end. It doesn't just taper off now like it used to. Honestly, people say you cant have everything, but this is the closest motor I have ever had that performed almost stronger with the port job everywhere than it did before. I dont know how Rich did it, or what he did exactly, but he definitely has it figured out. The dynoport pipe has real strong bottom end, but it really starts to shine in the midrange power area, somehow he made it work towards the top too.

I posted the same question with the pics of a cascade innovations unit last week.

I run a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe with a 2 into 1 intake. It makes a ton of low end and mid power. I recently had dynoport do a port job on it also, made more mid and top power and the torque feels the same.

The puller threads in left hand, but the nut threads on the crank are right hand.

At 158 psi you dont even need race gas, and you ought to be able to lean it out if the plugs are wet.

Pencil out your lines, then tape next to them with masking tape. Then cut with a jigsaw, then file and round the eges off. I use air tools when doing the rounding and finish work. Usually a roloc sander, and a grinding wheel.

I have a dynoport pipe, I dont use a clamp. Just put high temp rtv on it and put it together.

I would have used it on the flywheel.

You can talk to Dyno Dave from ILR, he is in the state you live in so you can bring him the frame and have him do all the work.

This is what is done to my bike, and it makes a ton of torque and mid power. Dynoport 2 into 1 pipe with ultra quiet silencer. Dynoport Port job.(yes dynoport does port work for the 2 into 1 pipe). 2 into 1 trinity intake with 35mm pwk and K&N pod filter (you may want to run an airbox though) Stock reed cages with carbon tech low-mid reeds. Flywheel lightened. (rs heavier magnet flywheel). Cascade Heavy duty clutch kit. +4 timing advanced. Pro design head with 20cc domes on 92 octane pump gas (155 psi comp). 13/46 gearing. Wiseco Pro lite pistons. Its a real strong running bike, amazes a lot of people, and its easy to keep on the pipe at slow speeds. With the new port jobs it pulls hard as you roll on the pipe and it stays the same for awhile till it gets to the upper rpm, then it takes off like a shot till it hits peak rpm.

99% of the time doing that leaves a crease in the tube which significantly weakens it.

Dave Roberts of ILR Performance in Bonney Lake, WA can build you a subframe. I dont know the cost, but he built one for my friends bike and raised the frame 2" cause he is 6'5" tall.

Sounds like a loose flywheel or sheared key to me. Pull the cover off and see if there is any carnage.

Theres a good chance you heat seized it, once it cooled off the pistons shrank and it freed up.

Your gonna have to try and polish or sand the high spots out, then lap the flywheel in when you get it. Then make sure its spinning true after its installed.

It looks like the torque pipes, but I need a side view of the headpipe and the chamber to be sure. If it is them, it should rip pretty good.

your plugs in the bottom of the cylinders are probably not installed.

Question: Was the nut still tight on the crank holding the flywheel when you pulled the cover off?

they are called mellot exhaust clamps. I think James Lucky carries them. TM design also has some. TM's site