Snopczynski

What kind of riding do you do?

You dont have to take them out, you just bend the pickup tab a little to set the gap.

so the bike runs like crap, or the lights dont work right?

You loose a little initial holeshot power, but you will gain quicker revs and more torque from a lightened one.

Ok, so one of the 4mm strokers ran like crap then quit running this last weekend. No SPARK! We took off the flywheel cover, there was the carnage. My cousins put a ricky timing plate in the bike with a stock stator and did not loctite any of the screws. One backed out of the pickup, it rubbed on the flywheel and flexed the plate. So it ruined the pickup and one of the ceramic covered grounds came loosa from the plate being jarred. Easy enough, we went to town and bought a Ricky Stator 200w unit and a Ricky Stator Flywheel. Came back put it on, and put in 1 75 w and 1 50w mr16 bulbs in his trail tech lights. Fired up the bike, told him to check the lights, they work. Went out to the hill that night, went to come back once it was dark and the lights dont work. Get to looking and find the wiring harness from the stator up to the connector on the main harness was bare and fried itself. Bike still ran though. We get it in, rip out the damaged stator harness and solder the old ones wire plugs and wires to the new ricky stator unit. Tore out the tors wiring , checked all the grounds and powers for shorts, everything was ok, and we added a ground to one of the coil mount bolts. We fired up the bike with all the lights hooked up and the regulator unplugged. The lights work ok at idle, and are putting out about 11.2v ac voltage (did not rev it up). Hooked up the regulator and it drops to 10.75v, the harness gets warm. Shut off the bike and put in the 35w bulbs, fire it back up with regulator connected. Now Harness gets warm, with meter hooked up we rev the bike to 6k rpm and voltage stays at 10.65v, harness really starts to get warm again. So we shut it off, go to town and buy a new YAMAHA factory regulator and put it on. Fire up bike, regulator holds 11.2v at idle. Rev the engine and voltage goes to 13.5v, Harness stays cool. It had a bad regulator, once the Ricky stator was added the regulator was shunting 200watts of current to ground and melted the harness. With a stock 100w stator it never directed enough current to ground to melt the wiring. Once all of this went bad, my cousin looks at me and says "could the bad regulator have caused my lights to be really dim with the stock stator"?, I said you mean like dimmer than usual, he says "Yeah". So, he had the symptom the whole time and ignored it, caused me and himself about 3 hours of riding time, and $325! Morale of the story, Use Loctite, chase down problems as they arise, and dont blame Ricky unless you find the problem.

I run maxima 927. Just had a motor apart that had 20 hours on it, it had very low carbon deposits, no scuffing on the bore, and the rings had no blow by at all.

It was first hung up in the front, then the rear got cocked out. I did a psi test and it lost 8 psi pressure over 20 minutes, but I checked and looked at the trans oil and saw no signs of coolant. Started it and it looked like it was circulating coolant. Seems ok.

I took it down the road, holy crap it comes on the pipe fast and hard.

I put my clutch cover on last night, it was harder than usual to get on. It got hung up on something like maybe the coolant pipe or the water pump gear. I hope I didn't tear the collant pipe o-ring or break the waterpump gear sucking it on with the bolts. It went in a little with the bolts, then I loosened them and straightened it out then it slid right on. I am gonna do a pressure test on the system tonight to make sure the o-ring is ok. Then suck some coolant out of the radiator and start it to see if it is circulating.

we have 2 of them, only problem we have had is the chrome flaking off on one.

podos racing +4! Podos Racing

I wouldn't run more than the 2 55watt halogens unless you get led bulbs for the trail tech lights. My bike with rs 200 watt and heavy magnet rs flywheel doesn't really get bright until high rpms with 2 75 watt bulbs in the mr16's. I downgraded to two 50 watt bulbs.

Cool head, rocky mountain or ebay. Porting, Dan at Patriot racing. Good Quality, and low prices.

Trail tech sells mr16 connectors on their site, I have never seen just connectors for sale at the hardware store and I have looked for them. As for big lights Ricky Stator sells a hella duner kit on his site.

Well I know Dan personally, I am going riding with him this weekend in Oregon. He is smart, he has great customer service, and I have seen a lot of his work so I can honestly say he is good. Not to mention the fact that if you need domes cut, or pistons oil ringed or anything extra he can help set it all up and he is local, which means no shipping and you get to talk to him in person.

Backwards slides or no choke balance tube on?

Hopefully I got it right with installing the adjuster, I am just freaked out cause I have never seen one or installed one before. The stock one is layed out different so it was nerve racking. If anyone sees something they dont think is right pipe up.

yes it does, you guys have seen the down in a hole video haven't you? That was before the heavy duty clutch and the port job too.

The arm is about that far toward the stator side when you are not touching the clutch lever at all. Is that what you are referring to? I do know its always been pointed straight at the arrow when you just put a little pressure on the lever and take the slack out of the cable and you can start to feel it tension up. Pic of the adjuster installed in the hub on the bike. The housing is all that sticks out with nothing on the outside correct? This is the pointer without touching the lever at all. This is with the lever pulled in a little bit until tension is felt. The arrows line up exactly. Is this right?

Well first I pull the clutch cover off and find a broken EBC clutch spring. Yeah, stay away from ebc stuff, I have had it with their clutch components. Next I installed the Cascade Heavy Duty clutch, no problem. Ok, so now I got the cascade hub adjuster deal with the pancake bearing. Its to replace the stock one so the ball does not weld itself to it. Anyone put one in? I put it in with washer, bearing, washer on bottom of hub. Set the adjuster so the arrow lined up on the case with the clutch lever cable slack taken up and I tightened the nut on the adjuster. So basically I used only the stuff that came in the cascade shrink pack plus I left the ball in there. Is this right?

I would use patriot, dan knows his tuff and he is local so he can help you set up your compression and everything.

This is what is done to my bike, and it makes a ton of torque and mid power. Dynoport 2 into 1 pipe with ultra quiet silencer. Dynoport Port job.(yes dynoport does port work for the 2 into 1 pipe). 2 into 1 trinity intake with 35mm pwk and K&N pod filter (you may want to run an airbox though) Stock reed cages with carbon tech low-mid reeds. Flywheel lightened. (rs heavier magnet flywheel). Cascade Heavy duty clutch kit. +4 timing advanced. Pro design head with 20cc domes on 92 octane pump gas (155 psi comp). 13/46 gearing. Wiseco Pro lite pistons. Its a real strong running bike, amazes a lot of people, and its easy to keep on the pipe at slow speeds.

I dont know, I haven't db'ed one yet either.

I race cut the fronts because I cant stand not seeing the front tires, I feel like I am riding a cardboard box. I only do a modes trim on the bike to get rid of the section of the fender that bolts up with the stock foot protection units. It also keeps down on stretch marks and scuffing when running through the trees at the dunes. My cousins race cut the rears, they say it looks better, but I think its cause they crash all the time and put stretch marks in full rear fenders. This is my old bike. This is my new one.

Are you talking about the fat boy silencers? They make a standard and quiet version. Pipes come in low-mid or mid-top. The quietest silencers you can get for them are the cascade csfx. PaulTurner Fat boy Heres a pic of the csfx on a cpi pipe.