kelly20

i pulled the cover and everything was there. key and the flywheel was tight. I replaced the stator with a beat up one what was laying around, also with no luck. Even swapped out the flywheel with no luck.

just put the motor back together with new pistons and crank seals. ran about a tank of gas through her. Ran fine. I went up a small hill and half way up she died. I check the key and the kill switch and they r fine. IS there a way to check the stator with a volt meter and if so how and what should the coninuity be? There is no lights and no spark. Can it be the box in the back ?

Id buy the cheaper one, rip the motor out and do it myself like the guy above said.

what dont you run filters?

www.ohtonracing.com all the way. He knows his shit. check it out, got mine done there 4-5 years ago and it runs like a champ. will try to throw some pics up when I get my jugs back from the local shop here in PA. The guy here said he cant do anything with the porting, its done great already.

what cc domes are they ? i run 17cc domes with blaster pistons and get around 165-170 I also was told that the blasters are 6mm shorter than stock, which accounts for the squish if i ran 17cc with stock piston heights the compression would probly be over 200.

that doesnt really help. are you saying to deck the jug 1mm then run the blaster domes? the blaster domes will fit a banshee pro design cool head? did anyone else deal with this situation I am in here?

I have a 5mm Long Rod kit and currently run 66mm blaster pistons. it needs the get bored so I am looking at throwing in 66.5mm blaster pistons which would be .100 over. I also just found out the the blaster piston is 6mm shorter than a stock piston not 5mm. Which is a 1mm difference obviously. Which also means that the piston is not flush with the deck at TDC which explains why I run 17cc domes with only 165 -170 psi of compression. My local builder wants to do it right at take 1mm off the top of the deck to bring the piston up flush which would bump my compression up over 200 with them domes I think. Anyone ever run into this before. I am pretty sure he wants to deck the top of the jug not the bottom due to the port timing. I am concerned about the squish clearance if there will be any if he decks the jugs. Any comments on the 66.5mm would be great too. I am going to give him a buzz monday so any help will be appreciated.

i run the old series. they are ancient but they scream. even have the old style silencers with the old school sticker on them with the blue in it. Also I rode a bike with that 2 into 1 dyno port and it was very disappointing.

figured out my 2nd gear problem. the retainer that holds the shift-cam in place was loose. 1 bolt fell out and put a nice nick in my hinson basket going for more porting, transfers ported, and a hone job hopefully.

yeh i beat the shit out of her but she likes it most of the time. i changed the tranny fluid today and there was no metal pieces or shavings in it. Maybe i bent that fork that slides the gears togetther and it keeps popping out, it feels like i hit neutral. we shall see this weekend

i buy klotz benol buy the gallon for 45

running a heavily ported long rod w/ blaster pistons. carbs cool head 17cc domes. I run up some steep coal banks that get technical and shit so I need to clucht the shit out of it. sometimes with no runner from the bottom I missed 2nd heard some nasty noises. I have it geared with a 15 in the front so I can pull super swamper tires in 2nd from a dead stop on the hills. Ill let u know what it is this weekend. going to see if i can get away with another hone job, rings, more porting, and case match the porting. local guy here seems to be pretty good. advanded maching in PA. previous port work Long rod kit was done by ohton racing in arizona. u know anyone who has used it?

anyone have any experiance with thier billet second gear they sell ? are they easy to install? anyone have a price for one or a website I can visit. when I throw my bike in second and go about half throttle the bike lunges forward and then cuts out. I am thinking I pulled some teeth off second. we will c this weekend when I tear her down. thanks

I bought a RS high output one. The two little screws that hold the pickup to plate were lock tited from the factory. turns out I stripped one, tried to drill it out f'd it up. I called them and they shipped out a new adjustable plate for free.