Snopczynski

I made a pvc intake for my 2007 5.9L cummins, and put a quadzilla xzt chip on it. I am doing a tank of gas right now with just the intake to see what the avg. mpg are now with it on. Next I will do the intake and chip. It has about 4k miles on it, and its getting about 15 mpg bone stock with no mods commuting back and forth too work highway and backroads. Right now she is in the dealer though, I figured out the speedometer is off by 4%. When I am going 60mph, it reads 58 on the gps. I took it in once and got the standard run around about how everything looked ok and it was calibrated for the correct tire size. I went back this time with my GM work uniform on, let them know I was a Master ASE tech and had GM and Audi factory certifications. Then I told them that I knew they could recalibrate it for different sized tires and thats what they needed to do, and I wasn't picking it up until they fixed it. So we will see this afternoon what happens. The damn overhead avg. fuel economy thing is off by 2 mpg too! So they are supposed too look into that also AGAIN! I think a diesel article on mpg add ons and the gains would be cool. Thats the only reasons why I made the intake and got the quad xzt chip was to get better fuel economy commuting and towing the old Banshee Trailer.

just make sure the rings are in the lands on the pistons, and put the ring gaps where they need to be on the retainers on the piston. If you start it and it makes any noise that it didn't use to make, shut it off.

I used them on a set of Banshee footpegs in my buddies frame. He is 6'5" and weighs 260lbs. Before we put these inserts in he had stripped the original threads, then broke the helicoils out 2 times. Now he has had these in for a year with no issues so far. I dont have any pics though, and his frame is in Vancouver at the powder coater,

Well basically you drill the hole with this giant cobalt drill bit, then stick this special countersink drill bit in it and countersink it. Then you get the insert out, and the top of it rounds out to take up the area you countersunk, and you drive it in with a special tool that looks like this. It all looks flush and factory when its done. We fixed the Audi 1.8T stripped out oil pan drain plugs with them. They are cool cause it doesn't have that tang that sticks out in the bottom like a heli coil has. EZ Lok drive tool They make a whole kit with both drill bits, the drive tool and the inserts though, thats where it gets spendy. Cause you get to buy a different tool fore every different sized insert.

Go kart wont load back down because of the cvt, key is to load the motor up, and load it back down in gear. If you wing up a 2 stroke, run it real hard for a bit and back off the throttle real quick, then blip back into it or try and reapply throttle they can run lean and stick a piston. Its a common mistake we always see people make down at the beach or on the flats in Sand Lake, Coos Bay, Florence and Winchester.

We had that happen back in the 90's, had to weld that little bastard back together out at the dunes.

I think he talks about snowmobiles toward the end of the article.

I would if you have any pitting on the cylinders, the case or on the head sealing area. Otherwise it should be ok, dont forget to retorque the head. Dont forget to make sure the rubber plugs are in the bottom of the cylinders.

You run reed spacers.

Banshee definition Link! This is a real Banshee!

This is what is done to my bike, and it makes a ton of torque and mid power. Dynoport 2 into 1 pipe with ultra quiet silencer. Dynoport Port job.(yes dynoport does port work for the 2 into 1 pipe). 2 into 1 trinity intake with 35mm pwk and K&N pod filter (you may want to run an airbox though) Stock reed cages with carbon tech low-mid reeds. Flywheel lightened. (rs heavier magnet flywheel). Cascade Heavy duty clutch kit. +4 timing advanced. Pro design head with 20cc domes on 92 octane pump gas (155 psi comp). 13/46 gearing. Wiseco Pro lite pistons. Its a real strong running bike, amazes a lot of people, and its easy to keep on the pipe at slow speeds. This would make a great idiot hole duner, woods motor, or mx bike.

I might be able to find one in my cousins shop this weekend.

Well, there are some bad A$$ thread inserts I have used that cost about $150.00 for the tools and 10 inserts.

Unfortunately it usually never is simple with transmission problems. Pull the cover off first, if you dont see anything wrong split the cases.

8mm bolt 20-23 ft lbs (head and cylinders). 6mm bolt 7 ft lbs (intake bolts) Dont forget to retorque the head after about .5 hour of riding.

I have broken in one 4 stroke motor and 2 banshee motors using this guys method. Had 2 of the motors apart awhile afterwards and everything looked great. There was zero ring blowby and you could still see the crosshatch in the sleeves. Motoman Break In LINK

Bottom and mid, will do well on the top too if its ported right.

Need to find a builder that knows what he is doing. re-cut the new domes and check the squish to make sure its ok. Then check compression.

Ummm, you probably got them hot. The stock coolant overflow outlet hose dumps out above the right side pipe. Mine does it sometimes, no big deal, just got hot. The coolant should be filled to the low mark on the overflow when the bike is stone cold. Gotta leave room for the coolant to get pushed out of the radiator and then get sucked back in. If it wasn't hot, then you probably have a bad cap.

Dynoport 2 into 1 pipe.

I wouldn't run over +5 degrees, and you can run 50/50, you should only be at about 165-170 psi compression.

Usually chipped gears or bent shift forks cause that.

Did you set the pickup coil gap? I see people slap on the stators quite often, not check the gap and the flywheel magnets rub on it and the pickup heats up then goes bad. Or its too far away and does not create enough spark intensity. Was it a 200w unit, or a stock replacement unit?

Cascades clutch is Barnett kevlar fibers, with I think FZ600 steels and toomey springs. They are pretty tough also.