Snopczynski

Your nuts, it takes at least an hour to swap head domes and refill the cooling system. Not to mention you have to make sure all the o-rings seated and I wouldn't reuse a o-ring set more than twice. You still have to drain the gas and put in race gas. Its not well worth your times. Do it right the first time, or dont do it at all.

A diode will create a .7 volt voltage drop acrossed it. Regulator rectifiers depending on manufacturers may or may not create a loss. Most importantly though is that the signal is full wave rectified to dc and regulated correctly at the proper voltage. So just running a diode and the stock regulator for dc will not regulate optimally. I have done a full dc conversion, and a split ac/dc conversion also. Right now my stator is full ac, but my grounds been floated and is grounded on my clutch cable retainer on the case till I get my battery put in. The dune review conversion was done the recommended way that trail tech and Ricky stator will tell you to convert to dc. There is publishings on trail techs site also.

You need to run a dek needle in middle clip positon, 180-185 main jet, 48 pilot with airscrew two turns out. Try that. Sounds like you have way too much main jet if they even make a keihin 290. You do know that takes a long keihin hex jet and not one of your small mikuni hex jets like out of your stock carb right?

Ok lets do this. How much do you want to spend on the electrical upgrade, and what do you want to achieve from it? Answer that and we can think of the best way to attack it.

35mm pwk is what all my buddies and I run. Then there is two bikes with 38mm lectrons on them. What are your mods?

You can run a split ac and dc system or convert to 100% dc. Either way you need a regulator/rectifier to do the job. I got a battery, mount, and reg/rectifier setup for a banshee. Its a nice odyssey battery too. It goes in place of where your airbox would be ( I run a 2 into 1 carb with a pod filter), I built it for my bike, but its just been sitting in my shop. It will work off a stock stator, but you may find more output is desired. If you run the split system you have to keep your stock regulator on the bike also.

Who is doing your woods port? I just had Dynoport do my port job, cylinders will be back tomorrow.

Every 6mm bolt on the bike is 6x1.00, every 8mm bolt is 8x1.25!

Wiseco gaskets are cometic gaskets.

m6x1.00 I am positive.

you do comp test with engine warm, pull both plugs and hold the throttle wide open. The wiseco part number you provided is .040" over bore from stock piston size.

what elevation are you at? Has the motor been ported at all?

ebay, trinity, cascade innovations or craigslist.

He said he rode both of them, so if the jetting was off he should have been able to tell. I have ridden bikes with both pipes, and its true that the gold series has about the same bottom end and midrange as a fatty, then pulls harder toward the top.

Theres no jetting problem, I used to run Gold Series pipes on my old banshee. They are by far my favorite twin pipe setup for a Banshee. They worked awesome on my dune play/ race bike. I have ridden a lot of bikes with different pipes, the only other pipe I like as much as gold series pipes is my current dyno port 2 into 1 pipe. Do yourself a favor and dont ever get rid of the gold series pipes.

aha, I knew it. Thats the problem, your choking the motor out with that small carb inlet. Make it at least the same exact size as the carb or bigger. Bigger would be better.

Something isn't right, I run a 45 pilot jet. Is the airbox inlet to the carb at least the same size as the back of the carb?

I am a technician for a living. The only advantage that nitrogen in your tires offers is reduced internal rotting of the tire. I personally have never ever seen the inside of a compressed air filled tire rot though.

What would you say the overall inlet size into the airbox is now? How big is the air filter? What is the total length from the back of the carb to the beginning of the air filter?

The plastic gear is white, this is only replaceable as a factory yamaha part. The piece that is green is the impeeler, and can be replaced with a billet one.

Do you have toomey needles in the carbs?

Alright, I am a self proclaimed electrical guru with the Banshee. I currently have a rs200 watt stator and flywheel. I use 2 trail tech lights with 50w bulbs in each one. You dont need a regualtor, the stock one will work just fine. If you dont believe me email Ricky Stator, he will reply back usually within 24 hours. I did have Dave Moore Racing lighten my flywheel and it turned out good. The flywheel helps the lights to be brighter at lower rpm's because of the heavier magnets in it. If you really want to conserve all your electrical wattage for the front facing lights, get an led tail light from a trucker or big rig store and fab it on there. You ought to be able to run 2 55w hellas just fine, but dont add anymore wattage than that to the system. You do not need to do a dc conversion. You mainly only have to do a dc conversion if you want a battery, or to run hid lights. It is possible to run a capacitor and use hid lights though. Hope that helps.

Do your jetting runs after the bike is warm, and ride it for like 30 seconds first. Main jet should not effect low end performance at all. Thats all pilot jet, airscrew, and needle.

Elevation at my house is 550 ft, I ride at the oregon dunes which is sea level. I dont change jetting when I rid in eastern washington which is about 650 ft elevation. Besides, the lower the levation, the richer you would need to be on jetting. I have a single pwk 35 on a trinity intake with a dynoport 2 into 1 pipe. My cousin and my uncle run a pwk 35 on a 2 into 1 intake with twin pro circuit pipes, they run a 1 size bigger main jet than I do. I understand fully what your question is, and your main jet is lean. Adjust main jet first, then needle, then pilot jet. I have a dek needle in the leanest position, 48 pilot, air screw 2 turns out and 185 main jet in my bike on 1 pwk 35mm carb with a 2 into 1 trinity intake. There is a possibility the new airbox is doing something weird with carb velocity. Almost no one runs a airbox on a 2 into 1 intake because they just dont make em. I would try the bigger main jet. Go to like a 180 at least and see what happens. If the bike is lean it will be unresponsive and just seem to fall on its face. If its rich, it will burble.

So this is for a rz350 engine in a banshee frame? Least amount of work would be a set of out of frame drag pipes.