Snopczynski

If it is a stock a-arm you have to buy a whole new a-arm. They aren't replaceable.

OK, we will make this easy Stock stator= 70watts of lighting combined between both your lights. If you have two lights and each one is more than 35w, the stock stator cannot handle it.

You can buy different needles too, that will change your fuel mixture depending on the size.

Theres a brass fitting in the cap, just put the cable through it.

I cant remember what crank seals look like, but if it had a lip with a spring, it needed to go towards the inside of the motor. It can and probably will leak oil if it is not installed this way.

It should be ok as long as the motor did not stop from not being able to compress the water. If that happens, then you can bend a rod.

What domes are you running, or what is your compression?

The barnett kits you have to use are not the Dirt Digger clutches, they are the Barnett Race clutch packs.

I got a rs timing plate. I sent my flywheel to Dave Moore for lightening.

Facts: That clutch, and those springs are crap. You need to have a barnett race clutch or cascade innovations heavy duty clutch. Opinion: I would never put motor oil, atf, or rear axle oil in my transmission. It took a lot of years of breaking shit to figure out I needed to be running a formulated 2 stroke gear oil.

Ronnies online link

my buddies 4mill has smoked two clutches with that royal purple stuff in the crankcase. Since everyone has switched to mtl, we haven't had any problems.

nobody makes em. We actually welded a set of brackets on my cousins frame. He recently rebuilt it, so he had it powdercoated.

I believe its a parking brake input so it wont rev up when the park brake is applied. If you get it running and it runs like crap, ground that wire to the frame.

What knid of clutch is it, and what springs did you use?

Nope, thats why you dont powdercoat them. You have to buy an all new arm.

Has it ever been shaved before? Check the comp. before you take it off. Check the squish when you reassemble it, and then check the compression again. Make sure you at least use the same thickness or less head gasket when you reassemble it.

Dynojet correction factors put the peak estimated motor hp off by 15%-20%. So it is probably more close to 130-135hp. I wouldn't buy if Trinity built it!

And, was that on a dyno jet or a crank dyno?

Dan almost did my motor, he was pretty confident he could have ported it to accentuate my pipe.

Your not supposed to powdercoat stock a-arms, it heats up the nylon insert in the ball joint and makes the joint prematurely fail. They look pretty though.

I run a 2-stroke trans formulated oil. Maxima MTL endurance 85w. I highly recommend running it or something equivelant to it.

Detonation looks like this. Banshee hq link

Was the bike hot, does it have an overflow bottle?

I have a rs 200w stator and flywheel, so do 4 other guys I ride with. Never had a problem with them that I didn't cause myself. Why did you have the pickup screws out? I think Ricky's stuff works great. A lot of the complaints about his stuff I see on here are from people who dont know hot to diagnose electrical issues, or they broke the parts themselves not installing them right.