Snopczynski

Yeah a 36mm would work, but the airstriker has a power jet, those can be a bit of a pain in the ass to mess with. Is you rneedle and seat working right? If you take a hose and put it on the fuel inlet with the carb off and blow in it, then tip tha carb up so the floats push in the needle, it should completely stop the airflow from you blowing it in. Does it smoke when it idles?

When you set your float level, you measured from the bowl mating surface to the seam on the floats at the end of the float, as the carb was tilted sideways and rolled around until the float arm it just touches the needle pintle right?

Did you get rid of that tiny airbox inlet yet? If not I would take the airbox out and put a pod filter on the carb then jet it and see how you can get it to run. If you get it to run right, then you know your choking the carb. If you still cant get it to run right I would look for a pwk 35 not a 33. dajogejr, his bike runs fine when he has stock carbs on it. He made a airbox for it and the airbox tube to the carb is smaller than the carb inlet. I told him in his last thread to change it out or make it bigger, I just dont know if he has yet.

I run a 20cc dome at sea level and my compression once broken in is 155psi. Compression usually drops 5-10 psi after the motor has broken in.

Not too many guys like the pvl, you may be better off asking this question over at planet sand.

To find the size of the carb you just measure the inlet of it on the motor side. Everyone runs a pwk 35, if other guys are telling you its too big, they are smoking crack big time. I ran a 35mm pwk on my bike when it was just pipe, reeds, head and no port job. Again, if the problem is not adjusted out by tuning the carb, then there is something worn inside the carb thats not allowing for adjustment. Now, float level effects how the carb will run everywhere. If its not high enough it can starve the engine of gas on the top end, if its too high, it will cause fuel to run into the engine because of the extreme angle (7 degrees) that is required on the banshee with the 2 into 1 intake. The stock carbs sit at an angle of about 2-4 degrees depending on if you run reed spacers or not. You need to always setup the carb in order. Before even putting the carb on the float level needs to be adjusted. Next you jet the main, then the needle, then the low speed/idle circuit. If it hesitates on the bottom your lean, if it blubbers then your rich. Personally I have the jetting specs for 4 banshees with 2 into 1 intakes and pwk 35mm carbs. All specs range from stock motor to ported. I honestly think there should be no way you have any smaller of a pilot jet then a 38, thats the extreme smallest I think you should be having to run. needle should be a dek probably in the 2nd from the top clip position. Main jet should be about 180-185. Set the float level.

I run a 20cc on pump gas, I recommend that for you also.

Question: do you already have a cool head on it, and if so what domes are in it now?

get a thicker head gasket. Ideal squish is .040"-.065"

OK, set the float level to 11mm, the airscrew no longer adjust past 3 turns out. If it is loading up at idle, switching to a 33mm is not going to do anything unless somethin in your carb is worn out. Set the airscrew to 3 turns out and see how it does. It will run like dog crap until you take it out and get it warm, then it should be able to idle a few minutes and rev right up and take off ok. I would still like a link to the old thread so I can read it over again.

Its not beating the crap out of it, its bringing it up to rpm and decelerating it under load. Your not supposed to keep a sustained high rpm for a long time and wing it out through the gears.

Is it a cool head or a stock head?

Make sure everything is clean and spotless, I mean everything!

You may not hurt anything breaking it in easy, but you run the risk of not properly seating the rings to the bore if you dont do it right. Tighter rings is more power.

Thats the best year to get if you get one. They are notorious for always blowing head gaskets, being extremely hard to start, and cracking the bottom part of the cylinder. Thats funny, I just typed that then read the ad again and he said he got a new cylinder last year. My dad had one and got tired of it, then he bought a Banshee. I still have one, a 1987 (worst year) that was my uncles. He passed away so I am gonna rebuild it and hit the drag hill with it. Not a cheap investment owning a Quadzilla, not by far. There are Banshees that can be had for a price like that, and they would take a lot less work than one of these. OH, and yes the parts are getting really hard to find, $500 for 3 tranny gears, and a 3 week wait on the parts when I rebuilt one 3 years ago.

Yeah, he wasn't too happy when he caught us.

Actually, they did a really good job, the crank came back and weighed alot less than the other hot rod crank in the shop, and the bike ran really smooth, it did not vibrate at all. Those guys are actually really well known on the snowmobile market, my old banshee crank was the first banshee crank they ever did.

My cousin was riding my friends bike so we plugged in the module one day about 7 miles out in the dunes. He couldn't get it started. He pulled the plugs and checked them, no spark. So he put them in and went over to tell someone to go get a tow rope. When he wasn't looking we unplugged the box and told him to try it one last time before we had to tow it. It started, we kept it together and did it to him again the next day. It was priceless!

Why not drill a hole in just the sprocket hub, then tap it and put a bolt in it that sticks out the other side and tensions the hub?

There aren't ANY published diagrams of how to route a harness. Your best bet is to find another warrior and look at it.

Was this the bike that ran like a dog till it hit the top end. Refresh my memory or post a link to the old thread so I can reread it.

Make sure the tors module was not left on the frame (under gas tank) and is not plugged in. People usually unplug and leave it down there, then someone else comes along and plugs it in, then no spark. None of the tors wiring should be touching either.

How much of a rebuild are we talking here? Like whole engine, top end, whole bike????????

Yeah, I had these guys balance and lighten the crank out of my old drag bike. They actually shaved quite a bit of weight off of it, and it ran really smooth. Falicon Cranks Link

I have used blind rivet nuts on my rhino and trailer and they hold up well, but they would be way too big to put in a banshee frame where the foot peg bolts go. :biggrin: