shanYE west

I'll second this! I've seen 2 keys shear and they were torqed to proper spec! Some hold up.. some dont.. Its not worth the risk to save 15 bucks IMO..

Dont know about Tyler.. But.. I like cheeseburgers to chisel my abs...

Thats impossible Dave!! Banshee are the best at everything! I wonder why their sales started to drop off in 2001? :ermm: :shrug:

I was just gonna say I'd have some custom cut domes made rather then run 2 head gaskets.. Thats just another spot for a airleak to happen. Deffinately have the port timings corrected or that 4mil will be pointless.

compression has a good gain.. but the Bore will be minimal.. Best bang for the buck is going to be a port job. If your completely stock.. then there will be some lil mods that would compliment the porting. Reeds, Timing, compression, air filters. ect..

The side vents are simply that.. Just Vents. If you have fuel coming out these vents then you have some serious issues. The fuel level would be higher then the main jet. If that happens the the fuel would rise through the jet then drain down into your cases. If this happens your running a serious risk of hydrolocking the motor. Here some pictures of the side vents inside the carb. The only Time i've ever seen fuel come out these tubes is when I remove the carbs for cleaning and tip them on thier side and upside down.

let us know where he's at!

You can go to .100 over but.. thats scary.. .080 is still considered safe. Only bore them enough to clean the walls.. You wont get any real gains from the bore itself. Usually the norm is about .020 off the head.. I wouldn't go anymore unless you rechamber the dome. I think thats still safe for premium pump gas. No such thing as hi-compression pistons in the banshee realm.

Bearings and gear in working order? Sometimes the gear can break if your not carefull putting the cover back on. or the pin strips the gear out. So not so much the impellar itself.. but the whole assembly

Just dont turn that one 2.5 turns from full in.. You'll be alright! :biggrin:

I agree with this! Seen it many times.. Try cleaning out the needle/seat if that dont fix it get a rebuild kit. The drain tube is the over flow tube. If you look inside your float bowls you'll see a brass tube that goes down into the drain screw. when fuel rises about that tube.. it drains down that tube and out the "drain/over flow" tube. I just happen to have a stock carb handy so a picture is worth a thousand words..

Check the impellar.

Nice looking shock! From what Tim was telling me they can convert the hillshooter series shocks into coil overs.. but the comps can't be converted.

actually.. thats the idle screw.

I used the long rod big bore pistons in my cub and I was very happy with them. Alot of the time failures are caused from improper clearances.. As long as its setup to spec. It should be fine. I'd run them.

I didn't see any performance gains over the non x-over style...

Couldn't tell ya.. I've never ran FMF on a banshee.. Only had them on a blaster with a Turbine core awhile ago.. But its safe to assume that the powercore would be a touch louder and have better flow.

Turbine core silencers are spark arrested while the power cores are not..

Mine's a purge tank for alky..

I got GREAT work.. and waited 2 weeks from the day it left my door..(including shipping to/from Cali) Lots of capable builders out there that have fast turnaround. You keep making people wait months and months for motors... they will find another builder. People spend 4-5k on a motor.. they expect to be treated the way they want to be treated. If they dont.. then they'll take their business somwhere else.

gut the carb out and clean it out really good. choke knobs, needle and seats, everything.. make sure you blow air though all passages. Also.. Might consider a bigger pilot 27.5 if that dont help.

I'm a lil bit inebriated.. so I'll hold back some comments.. :biggrin:

Thats a good deal.

The tool REALLY helps with setting the idle.. But you can set the slides pretty close by eyeballin it. I take the box out and that gives you a pretty good look in there. (if you have a air box)

its cheaper to buy a set of o-rings then it is to buy a set of cylinder studs.. The domes interchange with the NOSS heads and they still use the stock studs.