Strm Trpr

The only reason to drop a tooth on the front sprocket is because there are 15 teeth on the sprocket you have now. 14/41 is stock gearing. If bottom-end is what you're looking for, then stop right now, sell your Banshee to someone who can handle it and buy a 4 Choke...

RaceTech has no product... http://racetechelectric.com/i-9530595-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-dual-output-ac-lighting-stator.html http://racetechelectric.com/i-10388138-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-200w-dc-charging-stator.html http://racetechelectric.com/i-10388144-95-06-yamaha-banshee-high-power-200w-dc-stator-regulator-rectifier-kit.html

Fully plan on procuring a set of 2+1 a-arms for my 02. Post up some pics!

You can adjust chariot timing plates without removing the flywheel, and they're a site sponsor. http://m.ebay.com/itm/281104545763?nav=SEARCH&sbk=1

I'm not sure you used the word ignorant correctly because from where I'm standing, your last post made you sound pretty ignorant. Dozer's post was spot on! The other two guys were poking your ribs. You need to grow some thicker skin man... And please forgive my ignorance, but WTF is an "+2 ortega swing arm"?

Toomey said they have more top-end than T5's. My buddy's 89 flat out hauls the mail. He's currently upgrading to a set of +2+1 Stellar J-Arms. I'm going to ride that bitch in Pismo 2 weeks from tomorrow.

Have the head milled to bump up compression. That'll be another good bump in power. You can send your stock reed cages to Wildcard Racing and they will port the cages and put new Boyesen 2 stage reed petals on them or you can port them yourself if you know how to.

Find a pro-design air intake w/K&N and Outerwear and get that stock filter set-up out of there. Get an adjustable timing plate or mod the stock one and advance the timing to +4*. You are going to need larger main jets w/the FMF pipes, and possibly 27.5 pilots too. That should easily be under your $250 budget with an excellent bump up in power.

Here's the site I downloaded it from. It should be the last one on this page. http://www.myxmanuals.com/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=viewdownload&cid=13&min=180&orderby=titleA&show=10

sounds good. make sure you have new NGK BR8ES plugs gapped to .025". make sure your fuel is fresh and mixed properly. Turn the air screws in all the way and back them out 1.5 turns. Pull the choke out all the way and kick the shit out of it, like 1 kick per second. Then once it almost starts, try pushing the choke in 1 notch to the second setting. My 02 likes to start and idle nicely on the 2nd notch. Have you done a compression check?

how much power do you need? If you're thinking about aftermarket nikasil cylinders, then Redline can port 421 Servals, (68mm w/+4mil) on pump gas to 80+ rwhp. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=150213&hl=redline A Redline 465cc 10mil Serval would probably be pushing ~95rwhp.

did you get this figured out? now that it's colder outside, 25 pilots might be too small for a piped bike. do you have aftermarket reed cages? airbox or pods? try turning the air screws in all the way, then back them out 1 turn. do you have idle screws? with the carbs in your hand, adjust the idle screws in until they start to move the slides up, then back them off just to set them down. get a sync tool from FAST. is the choke tube connected between the carbs? to sync the slides you can eyeball the slides and sync them with the adjusters on top of the carbs. lightly push the throttle and watch the slides move up. do they move together? if not, adjust the cable adjusters on top of the carbs until they lift off together.

Yes, a Clymers manual is one of the keys. IIRC, there is a sticky'd thread of a FSM download on this site. I'm not sure where it is since I already have hardcopy and a pdf of the FSM. FSM = Factory Service Manual

Still waiting on a mod list. Things I would do if I could get my hands on it. Compression check. Leak down check. Carbs need to be open'd up, cleaned and gone thru. Float height needs to be set to 21mm +/-1mm. Carbs probably need a TORS elimination and idle screws installed. Idle needs to be set with a tach. Carbs need to be sync'd at idle and at 5500ish rpms. Then a plug chop if all other mechanical items check out.

You need to list all of your mods.

What Finch meant was, has the motor always been like that, or is it a new problem that arose with outside air temps getting cooler. Cooler air requires richer jetting, and/or airscrew adjustment. ^^^ Excellent suggestion. Try riding it with the choke pulled out a little. If it runs better, you need to adjust your airscrews by turning them in say a 1/2 turn at a time to richen the mixture. If you turn them all the way in, and it runs it's best, then you need the next larger size pilot jets. Be careful not to over-tighten them, you can damage them, and/or the carbs. On a side note, motorcycle carb chokes are actually "enricheners" rather than "chokes". In our carbs, when the "choke" is pulled, a rubber tipped plunger is lifted off an orifice that allows engine vacuum to draw in a tiny bit more fuel to the air fuel mixture richening the air/fuel ratio during cold start up.

Sick mid-range power! Looks like a 4 power curve... I remeber you trying different pipes to see what you liked, did you try PT high revs or even T5's on this ported motor?

How do you get away with +7* timing advance on pump gas? BTW, you didn't list what type of head you're running and what size domes, I'm guessing ~24cc's? And as far as running pure race gas, you can probably do a 50/50 blend race gas/pump gas to help offset the cost...

Paul Turner mid-range pipes.

+4* is good to go.

Yep, it leaned out and fried the top end. Tear those carbs down and clean them out with carb cleaner and blow them out with compressed air! Do you still have TORS?

How did you blow it up?

Welcome to Banshee HQ. The more info you give us the better we can help you figure out your problem. Do you still have the TORS?

So just to get the whole story, why are you breaking in the motor? And just for shits and giggles, here's a table out of the Yamaha FSM dealing with cold weather jetting. Obviously pay no attention to the jet sizes, just the air temp values and the jetting change increment.

who did the porting? elevation? air temp is -40*F, all day? Need a complete mod list.