Strm Trpr

I have the entire rear suspension off my 87. LMK if you need anything.

^^^ Indeed. I'm almost willing to bet it is a reed problem, especially if it happened after riding, but wouldn't that cylinder not have good compresion if the reed was broke, or is my thinking off? Also to the OP, make sure and do your comp checks with the throttle fully open. You can chek the reeds by removing the carbs and having a look at them from the rear of the bike.

^^^ Excellent That's another reason why I tell people to do one carb at a time... To the OP, your sticking carb slide might also be that you inadvertantly swapped slides with carbs. Double check that when you install the slides that the idle screw ramps are facing out and the grooves line up with the raised rib inside the carbs.

^^^ That sounds like a plan.

I might be getting rid of my 87 J-Arm titled frame. I can probably GreyHound that over to you, but it won't be for a month or so before I can devote some time into stripping her down.

Can you audibly hear the motor firing in both cylinders? Pull both carbs, disassemble them completely and clean every passage out with carb cleaner and compressed air. Please use eye protection. Even the best of us have had carb cleaner jet directly into an eyeball... Make sure float height is 21+/-1mm.

Did you sync the carbs after doing the TORS delete? I posted in your other thread.

Did you remove the carbs, take them apart and give them a good cleaning w/carb cleaner and blow every orifice out with compressed air. When I did my TORS delete, I put the slides in and adjusted the idle screws to just lift the slides up 0.5-1mm, visually. With the slides in the correct carb you should see the little dimple in the sight glass. With the new cable installed use the cable adjusters on the carb caps to make sure the slides lift off at exactly the same time when you blip the thumb throttle. Put the needle clip in the middle groove, 27.5 pilots in along with 300 mains and adjust the airscrews to 1.5 turns out from fully seated. I use a cheap eBay tach to dial in idle and the FAST carb sync tool to tune.

I'm not going to give them away.

$18/pair http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_view.cfm?store_area_id=13&STORE_DEPT_ID=610

Thanks man!

Maybe if you didn't have more than one thread requesting the same thing you'd be able to keep your shit straight. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=173555#entry1575586

There's a lot of interest for these particular j-arms. FYI, JP Racing is now Lone Star Racing. Here's a couple of pics I had on my phone.

There are pics in my gallery. The best pic is my avatar. I'll be parting my 87 tomorrow night. I can get pics then. PM me your email address and I can send you more tomorrow.

Stock carb idle screws have a lock nut. And I also use blue lock tight. It breaks free, and then they do not loosen by themselves. In this link, there is an exploded view. http://www.keihincarbs.com/tips/gate.html Item 4 is the idle screw. By what I see, there should be a spring that doesn't allow the idle screw to loosen. Do you have the spring too?

Cool, thanks for verifying what I thought seemed logical.

Well, just so you two know, my +2+1 JP Racing J-Arms only need new powder. They're 20yrs old, but rock solid...

I heard Fireball Racing can make them too, but I haven't confirmed that with a phone call.

Check my sig below this post.

I have no idea about 35mm PWK's, but from my knowledge of setting up stock carbs, I would imagine while holding the carb in your hand and looking at the slide from the filter, you would screw in the idle screw until it touches the slide and moves the slide up 1mm or so, maybe a touch less? Experts?

Ha Ha, that's fuckin EPIC!!!

Still waiting on needle info and turns out on airscrew.

How many turns out is the airscrew? If the throttle isn't snapping off idle, bogs, then revs, turn the airscrew in 1/2 a turn. If it gets better, depending how many turns out the airscrew is from fully seated, your pilot might be too small. If you find it best fully seated or 1/2 turn out, go up one size on your pilot. As stated above, do a proper plug chop for the mains. If you don't know how to do one, just ask.

Truely, it is much better to use the FAST Sync Tool. I know it's a lot to spend on a non performance part/tool, but I think it's very important for optimum power/performance. The sync tool measures how much vacuum the motoring is ingesting. Jetting needs to be very close when doing this, especially the pilot and needle. 1.5 turns out on the airscrew is a good starting point. Setting idle with a tach to 1550+/-50rpms while using the sync tool is what I found works best. You can dial in your idle to a specific rpm and then tweak the idle screws to get the vacuum perfectly matched for each cylinder. You can test your airscrew adjustments by snapping the throttle open fast, if it boggs, give it a turn in to give it more fuel, then check your vacuum again. When you put your filters back on, the idle should slow about 50rpm or so. Another important part of tuning is part throttle tuning. If your slides do not lift off at exactly the same instance, they will continue to be that much off throughout the entire powerband. Dialing in the cable adjusters on top of the carbs when you do a TORS elimination is a must. The new throtle cable is not built to the exact specs an OE throttle cable is when used in conjunction with the TORS boxes. To sync the carbs at part throtle, use the sync tool and the tach and rev the motor and hold it at 6000rpms or so and adjust the cables on top of the caps to acheive matching vacuum. Have someone help you hold the throttle perfect or what I do is pull the cable sheath out of the free length adjuster at the thumb throttle and lean it on the adjuster end. I put a wooden tooth pick into the adjuster so the cable sheath doesn't fall back into the adjuster. From here you can use the adjuster to finely set your high rpm idle of ~6krpm. If you're in an area with limited airflow through the radiator, put a fan in front of the radiator so you don't get the motor hot while tuning, ask me how I know this... It's really very easy, and you'd be surprised what an 1/8 of a turn on the idle screws or cable adjuster will do to the amount of vacuum the motor ingests... My $.02

I just saw someone hit you up for an airbox, but I PM'd you anyway. LMK