Strm Trpr

Use some toothpaste on a q-tip and polish the valve seat, then spray w/carb cleaner. Make sure the rubber tip of the needle doesn't have a wear ring on it and it's clean. Straight from the Yamaha Banshee Service Manual. Float height should be 21mm +/-1mm

^^^ Exactly! Mix the same oil and fuel ratio you plan to run always. For seating the rings, the main thing you need to do is rev it thru 3rd then 4th mid to 3/4 throttle, then immediately decel thru 4th then 3rd. This will create high vacuum in the motor and clean out the ring shavings from staying in the ring grooves. Rinse and repeat a couple more times. Then ride it like you stole it. Just make sure your jetting is close and not too rich or you'll glaze the cylinders and crap up the ring grooves and the rings will not seat.

^^^ is very true. How old are your spark plugs? Do you know how many turns out you have on your airscrews?

Sheerider is right. Definitely depends on your set-up. 14/41 is stock gearing and is what I run. I read in another thread that you're running a 13T front sprocket. Going up 1 tooth in front is like going down 3 teeth in back. With a 14T front sprocket, that dune port motor will require a lot more clutch fanning to keep it on the pipe than what you're used to with the 13T but you'll have a lot more top end.

Oh hell yeah it is. 14/41 is stock. Why you running a 13T front sprocket anyway?

You might want to do a 50/50 pump/race gas blend. Do you have an adjustable timing plate? If so, what is it set at, and maybe set it to 0* and see if it stops backing out plugs. Advanced timing increases combustion pressure exponentially vs smaller cc domes. 155psi cranking compression is pretty high on 91 craptane...

What's your elevation and air temp? Are you going to run K&N's w/Outerwears, (a.k.a. pods) directly on the carbs? You can see my mods and jetting at sea level. Lean out your main jets 1 size for every 2000ft. I would start w/27.5 pilot jets and needle clips in the middle groove and at the very least 300 mains. If your motor is ported then go with what your builder suggests. Which would probably be 30 pilots, needle clips in middle groove, air screws 1.5 turns out and 330 mains at sea level.

Aluminum on asphalt shouldn't be a problem. Are they tube or billet? 6061-T6 ultimate tensile strength is 42ksi where as 7075-T6 is 76ksi. 6061-T6 http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=3a2e111b27ef4e5d813bad6044b3f318 7075-T6 http://www.matweb.com/search/DataSheet.aspx?MatGUID=9852e9cdc3d4466ea9f111f3f0025c7d&ckck=1

If it's blowing out o-rings and backing out plugs, it's detonating. Stop now, do not pass go or collect $200.

Well, I'll be damn'd. Wonder why we thought it was lean when it was rich to begin with?

Follow the above guys advice. He has a 10DM. I'm sure he has more experience than me tuning.

You have jjh needles? Put the clip in the miiddle groove. Throw the 55 pilots and 160 mains in to be safe. Airscrew 1.5 turns out to start. On another note, my buddy has 28mm PWK's, Toomey T3's, dune port, 20cc domes, n68a needles clip middle groove, 52 pilots and 155 mains at sea level.

Ok, can you get to a bike shop? Can you call Kevin? He might be at the shop. I'd make it a priority to buy a pair of 52, 55 pilots, 158 and 160 mains. Cascade has pretty decent prices on genuine Keihin Jets.

^^^ sounds good!

Your pilot circuit is lean. Turn your airscrews in until the throttle is snappy. Take it for a ride and see if that helps. If not, then lower the clip one groove to raise the needle to fatten the tune. It's probably colder than a witches titty in a brass bra down there now, that's why your bike wants more fuel...

Well then, there you have it. Do you still have TORS?

What carbs are we talking about here? If we are talking about stock carbs, then you need to pull the carb cap off one carb at a time and use a Phillips screwdriver about 1/8" in diameter. Remove the screws and plate that holds the cable end and slide spring will lift out. Then the needle should slide out. C-clip in the top groove, (blunt end of needle) lowers the needle into the needle jet leaning the circuit. C-clip in the bottom groove raises the needle richening the circuit. Middle groove is where I run my clip and it flat out boogies.

I concur!

I got the same hook up as Nick.I tried PMing him but looks like his mailbox is full. Maybe you could pulse him for me, that'd be great.

Yeah man, my riding crew like to find an area and session it for a while. Right on, glad to hear you're mending well. Thanks for the pics. That helped a lot. If I can find a set that mounts to the pegs like that, then I'd be in business. I agree, but last weekend while I was out shredding the dunes MX style, I stubbed my left boot tip in a whoop in 4th gear and I thought I broke my foot clean off at the ankle. Damn near tore me off the bike at speed. I thought I heard a snap when it happened. Scared the shit out of me, I had to do a systems check to make sure my foot was good. If I wasn't wearing riding boots when that happened I'd be doing PT too. There are these from a shop in Utah. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yamaha-Banshee-Pro-Peg-Nerf-bars-fits-all-years-/400176900792 Here's their website. http://xfrproatv.com/products/atv-nerf-bars-pro-series-ii/

This might be an option. The issue is, my Roll pegs are not Banshee pegs, they are for a 660 Raptor and are moved back just over 2". Can you take pics so I can see how your nerf bars mount? What brand nerf bars are you running? BTW, how are you healing up?

I'd like to get a set of nerf bars, but I am running 660 Raptor IMS pegs. I'd like to keep my pegs, because the are moved back ~2" and offer way better stance than the stock pegs. Can any one help me with my options?

Forgive my ignorance, but are these resleeved to become big bore stock cylinders?

IIRC, Long Rod center to center is 115mm, not 155mm.

I would hit up Race Tech and compare them to Works.