Strm Trpr

Welcome to the BHQ. I noticed there's no rear grab bar and in that first pic. Is the the sub frame, (the part of the frame under the seat) bent up to the left?

I concur. The rods are polished and also have "Vitos" laser etched on the sides of the beam.

This makes sense. But check the kicker gear/idler gear interface as well.

Why are you messing with it? IIRC, it should be gapped to .019".

Did you forget your Ritalin this morning? You have 3 threads on the same thing in a little over an hour. That's gotta be some sort of record...

When seating the rings you want to rev cleanly thru several gears then engine brake, decel in each gear back to say 2nd, then back up thru the gears and then decel back down thru the gears. This will ensure the ring shavings don't crap up the ring lands and seat the rings with optimum compression. Let it cool down check torque specs on the cyls and head. Then repeat going thru the gears again. Then you should be good to go.

Cascade has dump tubes for 28mm PWK's. http://67.199.65.66/cascade_innovations/newlook/store/store_view.cfm?store_area_id=13&STORE_DEPT_ID=435

What Keihin PWK Carb are we talking about here?

I can vouch for non cross-over intakes. I just burned 10 gallons of fuel at Pismo Beach and not a single hiccup at all. Only thing I had to do was turn my airscrews in 1/2 a turn from 2 turns out to 1.5 turns out. Now she fires up first kick everytime, cold w/full choke or hot... My vote, ditch that crap. Just make sure your carbs are sync'd perfectly and you should be good to go.

Hey man, I'm not sure what the effects of bored carbs are, but my gut tells me more air requires more fuel.

Mils is another word for thousandths of an inch, so 10mils is actually .010", so that is only 0.254mm thick...

Did you mention to him that your carbs are bored out to 27.5mm?

Considering your carbs are bored 1.5mm larger than stock, one should assume the motor will be ingesting more air, so I'd start off with the following jets: 30 pilots air screws turned out 1.5 turns, (all the way in requires next size up pilot, more than 3 turns out requires next size smaller pilot). stock needle middle clip 350 mains As far as jets go, get what Zillaguy recommended. Cascade http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=102 has a decent deal on jets, but cal Jeff at F.A.S.T. and see what he can do for you. 27.5 - 30 Pilot Jets 320 - 350 Main Jets Make sure and sync the carbs with the F.A.S.T. sync tool http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59 with your idle at around 1500 rpms. Then sync the carbs at around 5500 rpms. Be sure and put a fan blowing thru the rad so you don't get too hot and blow off coolant thru the overflow.

Was wondering if you had some serious ride time on this build. What type of riding do you do? Any dyno numbers? Just asking cause you mentionied that you'd hope to get it on a dyno before next summer. Well, it's almost the end of next summer. I know how life can get in the way... believe me.

What carbs? What jets and needles? What elevation? What's the ambient air temp difference when it ran good to now that it runs like pooh? Mods?

Or one helluva dirty air filter. What are symptoms of worn reeds?

Do you have the TORS eliminated? Do you have idle screws installed? There should be a hose that connects the two carbs together right between them. Carbs need to be sync'd with a sync tool that can be bought at FAST.

F.A.S.T. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/ Cascade http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_view.cfm?store_area_id=13&STORE_DEPT_ID=102 Or, since you're in Canada, you can go to your local Yamaha stealership. Stock carb pilot jets are Banshee specific.

I just tuned my 02 this weekend. I'm at sea level. T5's, Chariot Reeds, Chariot Intakes, +4* on the plate and I run 36:1 w/91 octane. Stk carbs w/pods and no TORS 27.5 pilots air screw 1.5 turns out stk needle middle cllp 300 mains You are right, 30 pilots, but I'd bump up the mains to 300. 280's might be too lean for VF4's and FMF pipes. I did a plug chop and it was perfect, but barely... Probably can go up to a 310 main, but I'm gonna rock it as is. If it burns down, which I doubt, then it's time for a new top end and an aggressive MX port job!

They're N68A needles, (which are stock 28mm) are $18 for the pair. I thought that was on par with what needles cost. I don't think they offer the JJH needle. Cascade's mainjets are only $4 each, cheapest I found anywhere. PJ's wants $6 or more per mainjet. Try giving Jeff at FAST a call. He always seems to have exactly what I want...

Cascade has 28mm PWK needles. http://www.cascadeinnovations.net/store/store_View.cfm?STORE_AREA_ID=13&store_dept_id=610

I have two coming from Wacko. Thanks though.

Yes, Raptor 660 pegs do fit.You just need a small round 1/2" tall spacer for the brake pedal side and a 1/2" longer screw.

no shit, I'm in Stockton.You feel like conducting an experiment?