Strm Trpr

OP, do a proper plug chop. http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html

The pilot is a little big due to his airscrews being turned out 2.5 times which should help reduce the mains from 400 down. I've seen 4mil stk cyl dune ports running 330 mains with VF3's and pods on stk carbs. Frankthetank, what reeds and intakes are you running? Pods? Elevation? Plug Chop? OP, try 30 pilots and 340 mains needle clip middle groove 2 turns out on airscrews. Are the carbs idling perfect at 1500rpm and sync'd with a FAST Sync Tool? Is part throttle sync'd also? Meaning do the carb slides lift off at the same time and does the vac reading match? Only way to tune these bitches is with a cheap ebay tach and a FAST Sync Tool, period...

Nice, got any pics? How's fitment? Do you run pods? Now, update your Sig you lucky bastard and go ride the balls off that Sniper piped Serval!

House of Horsepower can rebuild your rear shock, respring and revalve for whatever length swinger you plan to run.

OP, what are your plans? Do you know why the piston burned down and seized to the cyl? If it were me, I'd split the cases and have the crank checked out for damage due to the piston seizing in the cyl. Have the cyls mic'd for roundness and if able, go to the next .010" overbore with new pistons. Get the trans pro mod'd by Redline and the upper case port matched to the cylinders. Are the cyls ported? When you reassemble the motor do a leakdown test to ensure there are no air leaks. Disassemble the carbs and remove all jets. Clean them with carb cleaner and blow every orifice out with compressed air. Make sure your floats are set to 20+/1mm. What jets are you running now and what is your complete mod list?

Turn airscrews all the way in and then turn them out 1.5 turns. Do you have idle screws installed? Are the carb slides sync'd and lifting off at the same time when you push the throttle? For your mods your jets are fine but you need to add fuel with the airscrews because your lid is off.

So your bike is completely stock with the exception of the uni filter in your airbox w/out the lid and .030" over pistons?

Any updates from any of you guys?

http://www.wiseco.com/ProductSearch.aspx 795 series pistons are required when running 115mm rods. Piston size increments are 0.5mm or .020". 110mm rod piston diameter increments are 0.25mm or .010". Rod to stroke ratios for the 4mil stroker using 110mm rods vs. 115mm rods is 1.9 vs. 2. You get slightly less piston side loading with the 115mm rods, but the difference is negligible. With the 110mm rod, you get slightly faster piston speed which translates into better cylinder filling vacuum. With the 795 series pistons I'd imagine the piston is slightly shorter in overall piston height due to the wrist pin being raised 5mm to accomodate the extra 5mm longer rod and the piston would be slightly lighter. If your not drag racing requiring ultimate top end rpm and power, run the 110mm rod 4mil stroker crank. Obviously any motor builder will know better, so I'd consult with them as well. Just my $0.02.

NICE! I too have only had bolt on banshees. I plan to do a strong mid-top build with a pro mod trans as soon as $$$ is available. I'm torn between Redline or LED.

So, compared to your bolt on bikes, how's the power delivery and feel of this one?

Excellent set-up, well put together!

Probably just a serial number. Call wiseco tomorrow and report back.

Your bike looks sick with all the black! Great idea with the bungie cord to keep the rear fenders perky! Gonna have to steal that idea fo sho!

shouldn't the airscrews be turned out the same number of times?

Vets, correct me if I'm wrong, does the wiseco 795 wiseco piston raise the wrist pin 5mm so one can run 115mm long rods? So, this spacer plate between the deck and head is probably a 2mm thick head gasket to allow for the additional +/-2mm of stroke? Then shouldn't the head be decked and rechambered to have an efficient combustion chamber shape? OP, you need more compression. What's your timing plate set at? Adding timing might help with your inefficient combustion chambers. So, your needle is raised fully, so your clip is in the 5th groove down from the blunt end of the needle? Have you done a proper plug chop to verify that you really need all this fuel you're throwing at it? What needles are you running in your 28mm PWK's?

I wonder if Mull Engr will cut custom pro design style domes?

Most impressive!

Just an FYI, 64.5mm bores with a 4mil stroker crank makes it a 379cc, not a 370cc. A 370 is 66mm bores with stock stroke.

Cut the threads off those spark plugs right up to the washer so we can see the smoke ring. I bet the left plug came from the cylinder that blew. That plug is way lean. Does the head have any damage? Check the float heights in both carbs. Set them to 20+/-1mm. The right cylinder has an air leak or fueling issue.

Where do you want to start? Did you pull the head yet? If not, do a compression test and find out which side blew. If for some reason you were too lean, detonation will occur and increase combustion pressures exponetially and lift the head and/or warp the head and blow the head gasket. Too much timing will cause deto too. Many reasons will cause a blown head gasket. Find out what side blew and go from there. An air leak between the cylinders and reed cages, and/or between the intakes and reed cages will also cause you to run lean. Torn intake boots where the x-over tube connects is also another spot to check for cracks. Did you set your floats in your carbs to 20+/-1mm? Are your carbs tuned for your build? 91 octane? Jetting?

40:1 is 16oz to 5 gallons.

Looks good to me. What are your mods and jets?

Called it.Glad you got it fingered out. Your response may help someone in the future.

Check your intakes for cracking around where the POS boost bottle attaches, especially on the right cylinder.