Strm Trpr

Yeah, I knew that. And after I typed that post I thought you might of thought that...

Try it and let us know. Clips on 2nd from blunt end of needle, correct?

One thing he mentioned was that it ran great when he rode in colder ambient temps. Colder temps require more fuel. If it ran great with current jetting and it's now running like ass, then he's jetted too rich for current ambient temps. He needs to lean the needle out like said above. Put the clips on the 2nd groove from the blunt end. That will keep the needle lower in the needle jet and lean out the entire mixture.

Throttle cable for smooth operation. Make sure carb slides smack down quickly and no signs of the cable dragging. Make sure throttle cable is lubed.

Indeed!! ^^^ leakdown test of the motor during assembly while on the work bench is optimal!

It's a lot of work to do a leakdown test. His motor should not need all the fuel it's asking for unless it's ported.

You need to do a LEAKDOWN test!! Is you're motor ported?

^^^ Why put the needle clip in the 4th groove? I know it fattens up the mid-range but am I missing something? Look at my mods. I do not run a cross-over tube and run individual billet intakes. Sync is dead-nuts at a 1500rpm idle and 5500rpm part throttle. Would I benefit from moving the clip? My motor doesn't ever have any anomolies (sp), like a lean spot in the mid-range or something like that. I have Toomey needles that came with the bike, but Kevin Herr told me to put the jets in just as they are and run it with stock needles. I plug chopped it several times and it's perfect!! Thoughts?

If you're 1 turn out, yes, go to a 30 pilot. With idle screws installed and TORS eliminated I set my idle to 1500rpms with a digital tach from ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/LCD-Digital-Engine-Tach-Hour-Meter-Gauge-for-Racing-Motorcycle-Black-US-STOCK-/291261653224 I also sync my carbs with a FAST Carb Sync Tool http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=59 at idle and ~5500rpms. How to sync, in case you do not know. Part 1 https://youtu.be/8FDcsojwVxc Part 2 https://youtu.be/IZEBfFZUygM Dialing in the airscrews should be done after the above tuning is complete. You can feel and hear the throttle crack open sharply with no stumble off idle when your airscrews are dialed.

Like this? There's a gasket or an oring, whichever your interface is with the billet manifold. The oring would fit into a groove on the manifold and the aluminum face of the boot would seal against it. This is $80 + shipping from Trinty's manufacturer. $65 paypal gift.

You sir, are correct!!

What elevation are you at? Stock pilot seems a little small for WETF "Sport Ported" means. K&N in Airbox w/lid removed or K&N Pods on the carbs? To start, I'd make sure the carbs are sync'd and the floats are set to 20+/-1mm. When jetting any motor, always err on the side of caution, meaning rich first. Lower the needle clip one groove to raise the needle and fatten up the entire fueling circuit and see if the top of 6th gets better. If it get's worse, take note how it behaved, then go the other way with the needle. Move the clip up two grooves to be in the 2nd goove from the blunt end of the needle. This will lower the needle and lean out the entire fueling circuit. I seriously doubt you need to lean it out, but I've been wrong less times than I've been right...

22cc domes w/+4* on 91 octane is safe. Is the crack welded? If not, stop right there. Is the motor ported?

I probably shouldn't even ask, but how do slp's compare to T5's?

Nice 87. Fireball Racing for some +2 J-arms. Do yourself a favor and have them build you tie rods that accept the Raptor 700 tie rod ends. 12mm studs vs. 10mm studs.

330 minimum on a ported 4mil! Stock carbs have made over 80whp! And while we're at it, check your float heights too. They should be 20+/-1mm. And for shits and giggles, what groove are your needles on and what pilots are you running? FMF pipes like fat pilots, so you better have 30's in there. http://www.fmfracing.com/RiderSupport/JettingCenter

Pilot jets are banshee carb specific, just saying...

I have a brand new one from Trinity that I'm not using. They want $80 + tax and shipping. PM me your offer.

I see you're on stock carbs. Airbox with or without lid, or PODS? Assuming you're tuned perfectly, no air leaks, idle screws installed, TORS eliminated correctly and the carbs are sync'd with a FAST Carb Sync Tool. For every 2k ft you go down in elevation you should go up a jet size. Air density and humidity will play a factor too. I'd imagine much more humid in Texas. To start, I'd make sure the carbs are clean, clean, clean. If the bowls haven't been removed in a minute, I'd get two new OE bowl gaskets, just in case you tear one. Float height set to 20+/-1mm. I'd throw in 330 mains and 27.5 pilots, minimum. needle clips middle groove If your airscrews need to be turned out to < 1 turn from seated to get the throttle to snap off idle, go up to 30 pilots.

Thanks for sharing that info.

Bummer about the floats dude. Just goes to show everyone that the simplest thing can fcuk it all up. Carbs should never be taken for granted. Every time they come off they should be opened up, cleaned out and inspected to prevent shit like this from happening...

I like it!! ^^^Question for n2o, I believe they call you Green, if the OP ends up boring that one cylinder, will he a) have to jet that side differently, and match the mass of the larger piston to that of the lighter piston?

The left dome is missing an o-ring, unless it fell off before the picture.Check your float height too. I know you're not on stock carbs, but stock float height is 20+/-1mm.

Like said above, a simple leakdown test would've prevented this. Left side obviously had an intake leak and leaned out or something in the left carb leaned out and burned it down. The piston crown is melted on the exhaust side, signifying high EGT's.

Those sound alright...