Strm Trpr

I posted some pics above. It's not a direct comparison.

I can't tell if those are the cords showing thru or tool marks from when they shaved the tire. If they are cords, they are comp cut.

I second the Naval Jelly. I haz pics to prove it. But I used #0000 steel wool. #0 will scratch the chrome. I can load pics later, if I remember. PB Blaster and #0000 steel wool will work too, but more work required. Naval jelly disolves rust right off. You can get it at Lowe's. Sorry, this is all I have

I don't think his stock motor is going to push those 22" tires with a +6 swinger past 4th gear. I'd leave the front 13T front sproket on. That's like going up 3 teeth in the rear sprocket.

What a bitch!

if those were for an 8" dia rim, maybe...

CL posting expired. You still have this?

Make sure and let us know how much bottom-end loss you feel by switching to drag pipes on a stock motor...

When it's cold, the engine needs more fuel. With the choke pulled out extra fuel is allowed into the engine. Turn the air screws in all the way, but gently. This will add fuel.

27.5 pilots 280 mains Needless clip middle groove Air screws 1.5 turns out You need to sync your carbs too.

Here's a WAG, since I never had a stock TORS Banshee. I'm not sure if you can even this, but this is what I'd do. 1st, make sure carbs are sync'd by visually seeing the dot on the slides thru each carb's site glass. Then turn the air screws in until seated, then turn them out 1.5x. Next turn the idle adjust knobs equally on the TORS to raise the idle. Then fire it up and see how that works for you.

let us know how it turns out.

FMF's like 30 pilots. http://www.fmfracing.com/RiderSupport/JettingCenter

When out in the dunes riding hard and we stop for a minute to chill and I start my bike again, sometimes I need to thumb it simultaneously while kicking it once and it fires. Otherwise it'll start but idle low and die. Starts great when cold with choke. I probably need to check my idle rpm when it's hella hot? Plus, I set my idle with the filters off when I was syncing the carbs and never checked my hot idle with my pods on. I'll get that done for my July Pismo trip.

http://www.startinglineproducts.com/catalog.cfm?pageID=detail&catalogID=11&productID=1703

Fireball makes a bad ads 40mm dune play axle as well.

Sounds good to me. Might have to turn the airscrews in a little to give it a little extra fuel for off idle snap.

FFS, do a plug plug chop! http://www.dfn.com/agservices/plugchop.html

Just went over this. Try searching http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=176332&hl=

Did you do a leakdown test to ensure you didn't have any air leaks when you reassembled the motor?

House of Horsepower Ask for Richard.

First verify that there is a hose connecting the two carbs that is parallel to the choke. If yes. Pull the choke out fully and try and ride it. If it gets into the powerband with less popping, you're jetting is lean. Stop and report back with all mods and what jets are in the carbs.

Ew wE is he proud of his port work. He modifies the head, stk carbs get taper bored, stk intakes get modified to run with VF4's, new wiseco's get modified and he recommends T5's. Forgot to ask about port matching the cases and if he cuts custom domes rather than modifying the stock head.

specialblend07, what's going on with the front suspension of the bike in your avatar?

Holy Shit! Those are some nice curves and rpm range out of T5's! Those are 4mil stk cyl numbers! Might give him a call. All I need done is bored/ported stk cyls, port matched top case, pistons and custom cut domes for my Noss Head. I have all other supporting mods already!